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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-19-2005, 11:15 AM
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Default bore & sleeving a 390 to make a 427

Has anybody ever hered of boring a 390 FE out and sleeving it to the standerd bore of the 427 of 4.23 thousand. I have my own boring bar and would like to try it some day if it could be done.
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Old 02-19-2005, 12:42 PM
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Check out the "Poor man's 427" build up on www.fordfe.com Do a search on the forum. This is a work in progress by Wes Adams. The search function has been kinda funky there lately but you should get some hits. Lots of pics. It's based on a 390 block bored and sleeved with a 427+ size bore. Block has been hardblocked also. Interesting stuff. G.
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Old 02-20-2005, 05:50 AM
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I have the feeling that boring a 390 to put in a big enough sleeve would not leave anything for the sleeve to bear against in the block. Remember the sleeve itself is about .25" thick so its got to be a big hole in the block to take it. It would be supported at the top of the block but probably not at the bottom. Thats why the hardblock was needed.

John
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Old 02-20-2005, 06:19 AM
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Over at FordFE.com go to the PHOTO section and you will see the various stages of the build in progress. Flip through a few pages there and you should be able to see them all. Interesting stuff. G.
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Old 02-20-2005, 08:38 PM
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use a C4AE 390 block (427 casting) and just bore it 4.2325...
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Old 02-20-2005, 09:04 PM
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Yeah I keep my "boring bar" right next to the bench grinder.


Your own boring bar? Dam, now THATS a nice garage!
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Old 02-21-2005, 01:01 PM
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Thanks for the replys on this.I looked at the pitchers of the poor mans 427 that thing looks pretty scary with all the cylinders cut out! I think I would have just did one cylinder at a time.I didn't see the end results I wonder if he's got it running yet?
One of these days I'am going to try and punch out a 390.
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Old 02-21-2005, 01:46 PM
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Starting with a 390 block, a stroker crank (Scat 4.125") and 6.700 connecting rods with a .030 overbore would give you 430 cu in according to Flatlander Racing's web site. Anyone ever give this combo a try?
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Old 02-21-2005, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by btsai


Starting with a 390 block, a stroker crank (Scat 4.125") and 6.700 connecting rods with a .030 overbore would give you 430 cu in according to Flatlander Racing's web site. Anyone ever give this combo a try?

btsai,

I am doing that exact arrangement with my 390. I have a comp cam, edelbrock aluminum heads, weber 48 ida's with an aluminum intake, 10.5 to 1 compression, and the scat crank in which you have referred. The car should be done in about 3 weeks. The webers and the stroker kit are my latest addition to the engine. It had dual quad 600 holley's with the original 390 crank. The car would get up and go with that set up, but I'm never satisfied. I'll report back as soon as it is done.
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Old 02-21-2005, 03:06 PM
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Bob it's still a work in progress. Check the site every now and then for updates. G.
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:28 PM
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Thats interesting,,Im curious what the cost involved would be,and if hard blocking creates a significant cooling problem.
Heres a question I have,I just came across a pile of fe engines,6 in all,1965 merc 390,couple truck 390's,a 330HD and an extra 330HD steel crank.These engines were all pulled as oil burners 20 yrs ago and stored in doors.
Would there be any merit in boring one of the truck blocks to say 4.13 {428} and having one of the 330 billet cranks lightened and offset for BBC rods ? Im think a 350 to 370 FE at 8500 rpm would be a thrill in a cobra.
I'd love input on this. thanks,,Tim
Oh,,ps is a 360 good for anything ?
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Old 02-21-2005, 06:49 PM
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I have seen the stroker cranks for sale,but I have always like the fast revving 3.78 stroke of the 390-427.
It will be interesting to here what the stroker crank, and webers dose for ( wtenukl engine).
I have some old books that say if you put a 360 pickup truck crank in a 427 you'll have an engine that will rev to 10,000 RPM's all day long.You would need a valve train that could handle it also.
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Old 02-21-2005, 07:07 PM
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I seen a show on speed channel some time back they showed the use of hardblock. It was in a chevy 350 I think. They filled it up to the top of the frost plug holes,and said it shouldn't have any cooling problems because all the heat is made in the heads.
Wes Adams said he was only going to hardblock his engine to the bottom of the frost plug holes,and from what I can see in the pic's about 1/2 inch.
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Old 02-22-2005, 01:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by btsai


Starting with a 390 block, a stroker crank (Scat 4.125") and 6.700 connecting rods with a .030 overbore would give you 430 cu in according to Flatlander Racing's web site. Anyone ever give this combo a try?
I'm building a 390 with a .040 overbore. Using a Scat 4.25" stroker crank and 6.70 Eagle rods with 13.1 Diamond pistons. Should be 447 cu in. I am using a RPM intake with a 850 holley on it. Comp special solid grid with just a tad over .600 lift on a 110 center. Cant wait to see how it runs.
Bud
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Old 02-25-2005, 05:44 AM
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Containing the piston is only 1/2 of what the cylinder walls do. The rest of the story is the containment of the crankshaft since more than 1/2 of the strength of the mainbearing webbing comes from the cylinder walls. Typical rule of thumb stops sleeving at 2 sleeves in a block as long as they don't share the same plane (mainbearing web). And engine hogged out like this will not last long if it is building any sort of real power.
The Hard-Blok just helps stabilize already thin "cast" cylinder walls and will be of little consequnece in terms of supporting the mains.

Just my $.02 worth...
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Old 02-27-2005, 07:24 PM
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This trying to sleeve a 390 block to a 427 bore is a waste of good time and sleeves. You will have very unstable block that will not take much HP and that defeats the whole purpose of having a 427. Save your money for a good block or build a stroker 390 or 428 block. To sleeve a block properly you need to bore every other hole and install the sleeve with no more than .001 press and then bore the other holes after these two sleeves have been installed and install those two sleeves. The 427 is famouse for cracking between the cylinders when sleeved but done right it can be made to work with an original block if done right. We have had to do several ofr NHRA compitition but no more since the good blocks are available. Just my two cents. Keith
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