ye olde oil leak

[double ugly]

If we have to go that far, I'll make sure it's in correctly. Do you have the screw in or press fit plugs?
Thanks, John

[c6ae]

I have several FE’s, only the 390 in my old pick-up has press in plugs. I have repaired/built a number of them over the years and in my experience the press in gallery plugs are not as often a problem as the cam plug. It was common practice for rebuild shops to slather some silicone sealant or some other goop all around the cam plug because they did not trust it. (I have seen several of them installed backwards and if this is the case the cam can bump it loose) On assembly I use just a bit of red Loctite on the rim of the plug, not smearing stuff around the plug.
I recently repaired an FT 391 (same oil system) that the cam plug had fallen out of… gone. In the search to pinpoint the leak, which was significant, 1-quart/15 minutes, I pressurized the system to 75 psi using a drill and the darn thing would not leak. This engine had to be running to leak. This test pretty much ruled out the gallery plugs. I suspect that a gallery plug would leak under pressure if it were running or not but the cam is effectively closing the oil passage on the cam bearing when it is not running so the missing cam plug did not leak!
You can make this test, to help make a determination about the gallery plugs. Wipe every thing down in the area under suspicion and bring the engine up to temperature then pressurize the oil system with a drill motor and watch for leaks. A gallery plug will leak.

[Jac Mac]

John,

If/when you pull the trans,flywheel etc spray some of the white crack test developer on the suspect area (clean & dry first) then run up oil pressure with drill & check for leaks. If there is still no indication refit flywheel and an old auto trans or Ford OE bellhousing with starter and actually run motor for 15 minutes approx[ Set bellhousing on block of wood and make sure earth strap from frame to engine block is connected]. Then these parts can be quickly removed to check source of leak after shutdown. The developer will wipe off with wet/damp cloth.

Jac Mac

[Naumoff]

DU,
Is it easier to pull the engine and trans out together or do you have to pull the interior anyway? Pull the engine and replace all the gaskets. Might be quicker and easier.

In my opinion if the car has to make a run before the oil leak shows up it is due to sloshing around the areas were the oil will collect on its way back to the pan.

[double ugly]

Pulling the engine with the transmission attached is real tricky, I think. To get the engine out the radiator and pusher fans need to come out in order to get the hood off. Much easier to take the seats out and remove the tunnel and lift the tranny out etc.
John

[Jac Mac]

John , here is another tip you may want to try before you pull the trans, seal off your breathers etc on the rocker covers. apply an old reversed vacuum cleaner or low pressure air source to the oil filler cap. Remove the dip stick to allow most of the pressure to escape and apply some dishwash/ liquid soap & water mix to any suspect areas like the valley gaskets etc, any leaks should show as bubbles. Do not use excessive pressure or you may create a few more leaks.

Jac Mac

[easystep]

I know Keith Craft on his FE builds machines all the blocks he does for a single-piece rear main seal. If you are going to pull your engine, you may want to think about this. It's supposed to cut down on leaks from this area considerably.