FE Experts needed possible rebuild 427 SO

[priobe]

patrickt,

I ended up taking my car to a local shop that has had experience with Webers and 427 ford's.

After explaining the problem to him, as you mentioned,he asked me if my heart was set on these carbs. I responded by saying yes.

He was going to suggest to switch to dual 4 barrels and I told him let give the webers a try first.

I dropped the car off with a book of all the adjustment I have already tried and with the following new jets:

50 pump jets
135 mains


He was able to get the car running good in 1/2 a day.

He has done the following:

Change plugs
Compression Test
Leakdown Test
Set timing by rev motor to 3000 rpm and set timing to 36 degrees
change pump jets to 50
55 idles
100 holders
180 air
F7 e tube
135 mains

He has requested to put in F2 etubes to fine tune the mixture.

From what he says it is a completely different motor with alot more power. Popping has been eliminated!!!

He still has the car there he mentioned the leakdown numbers but told me lets see of the rings seat
He said he is not happy with the oil pressure but he will change the straight 30 to straight 50 and cut open the filters to make a determination of that.

He is not forcing a rebuild on me, he said lets wait and see some more results.

He is not happy with the cam either nor does he hate it.

I sttill have not yet seen or heard the car so I am just preparing for a rebuild if I need it.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by priobe

patrickt,

I ended up taking my car to a local shop that has had experience with Webers and 427 ford's ... From what he says it is a completely different motor with alot more power. Popping has been eliminated!!!

He said he is not happy with the oil pressure but he will change the straight 30 to straight 50 and cut open the filters to make a determination of that.

He is not forcing a rebuild on me, he said lets wait and see some more results.

He is not happy with the cam either nor does he hate it.

I sttill have not yet seen or heard the car so I am just preparing for a rebuild if I need it.

Well that doesn't sound too bad at all! My advice is to give it some time. You can move your oil up a viscosity level and then put a good 500-1000 miles on it before you do anything rash. Absent something unusual (like finding big gnarly chunks of metal in your filter), get some serious seat time in before you even think of pulling the cam.

[Tony Ripepi]

Hmmmmm,

Good info here...my 427 SO (Shelby CSX 4xxx)runs at about 15-20 at idle and 50 anytime I push down on the loud pedal....almost 10k miles on the motor. I also had a 427 CO with a stroker crank and it was a joy on the road ---- I almost had to beat my brother out of the car with a sledge hammer once he drove it, he still holds it against me that I sold that car.

If you are set on a rebuild keep the compression ratio at 9.5 - 10.5 and put in a stroker crank.....build a torque engine that will be pleasure to drive on the street. If your goal is a high HP racing engine that loves 5500 RPM + take the directions listed above.

BTW pics in my gallery of both cars....the silver Unique is the 427 CO.

One mans opinion........

Tony R.

[priobe]

I guess with all information the oil pressure might not be that bad. AS for the leakdown test I guess its not a enough miles to make a decision.

As for the cam, well, I will wait to hear my the shop to see if they are ready to release the car back to me. I will wait to hear his final recommendation.

Either way I win. If the motor needs a rebuild then possible more power if it doesnt then strip it down and off to the paint shop

[RICK LAKE]

Patrickt Pat your know there is a big different between Nascar cranks and rods and 427SO or 428 cranks and rods. It is very possible that the guy who put his motor together used stock 427 bearings. They are NOT INTERCHANGABLE with when using a Nascar crank and rods. This info is from multi articles on FE builds. The bearing being used in most FE motors are 3/4 groove. Some are full groove on the mains. I just took these off my 452 motor. and with the stroker kit installed 3/4 grooved only after calling Barry R. who I got the kit from. He explained the change in design. The info you have for oil pressure doesn't include the Nascar motor. IMO if you want to run a heavy bottom end motor on 10-15 psi of oil thats your choise. If the bearings get spun on the bottom of this motor are you going to help repair it?Have you every seen bearings in a motor damaged from hi oil pressure? I am still waiting for the first set. Is high oil pressure hard on the gears of the cam and distributor, yes but there are some things to help the wear problem. I am a student of the FE. I have been a auto mechanic since 73. I am not a pro, but have seen enought motors and damage to know what works and what doesn't. Every magazine out has articles on oil now and how and why breakins either fail or work OK. Clearances on motors have changed too with the oil changes. I wish I had the money and place to do what Barry R. and Jay B. do. A dyno for motors and 1020 liquid head flow bench is all you need. I tell everyone about a peroiler for there $20K motors and how dry startup do 80% of the damage to any motor. I have a friend who is a hydraulics engineer. We talked for hours about how much pressure is needed to keep a rod floating and not letting metal contact metal. Do you know which cycle is hardest on a motor? I will tell you next time. 80% have thought wrong. I am one of them. Have a nice day Rick L.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

The info you have for oil pressure doesn't include the Nascar motor. IMO if you want to run a heavy bottom end motor on 10-15 psi of oil thats your choise.

The closest I can get in my old manuals to the Nascar engine is the R Code Specs below, 505HP, 13 to 1 Compression. Here it is (but I will concede that there is always the possibility that someone puts the wrong parts in). Note the oil pressure specs in the upper right hand corner.

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Do you know which cycle is hardest on a motor?

Uhh, premenstrual?