wiped cams

[Jerry Clayton]

Most of the FE cam breakin problems are self induced--First the engines had no oil to the tappets---then people restrict oil to the heads--then they use rods with no squirt holes and tiny bearing and side clearance---whats a cam to do??????No or little oil being slung/sprayed upwards onto the cam, no or little oil draining down from the rockers/springs, no oil around the tappet

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton

Most of the FE cam breakin problems are self induced...

That's true to a certain degree. I can't argue against the "safety aspect" of breaking in a hydraulic (and Rick's going to have to post an audio clip of his engine before I believe it sounds just like solids...but it might, so don't get mad at me Rick). And performance-wise, today's hydraulics are pretty much just as good as solids.

[RICK LAKE]

patrickt Solids make more power in the upper rpm range to a point. The problem is 2 fold. First the cams have different lobe designs, so there is no way you are going to get a real comparision of solid verse hydro's. Hydro are less maintainance, that's it. Second part of the problem is the weight differents between solids and hydros. I found a way around the pump up problem of hydros, The valve lash is only.010" of the plunger being depressed in the lifter. This slows down the float problem. On my 452 motor with a .501-533" hydro lifter camshaft from crane. The motor would fall flat at 5,400 rpm. With the beehives #26120 I got another 450rpms without the fast dropoff of power. The lifters also have have been pumpup but still maken power. I saved 44 grams per valve on the motor. Thats alot at 5,500 rpm. I am looking at lightening my valve train, going with a bigger cam and turning about 6,700 rpm without any float problem. I will still limit my motors to 6,200 rpm but it's nice to know you have another 500rpm in the bag if needed. Has for breakin of a new motor, any motor with more than a single spring like abeehive would get the dampeners removed and inner springs. Good oil and 2 bottles of EOS and a bottle of Lucas oil suppliment. The other thing is PEROIL the motor. Start the motor and go to 2,500rpm and STAY there for 15 minutes. NO VARYING in RPM. I don't understand guys that spend 15-20G's for a FE motor and will not spend $3-400 more for a Accusump to work as a peroiler and racetrack oil pressure stablizer around long high G turns. Have a good evening Rick L.

[Tom Kirkham]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Good oil and 2 bottles of EOS and a bottle of Lucas oil suppliment... Start the motor and go to 2,500rpm and STAY there for 15 minutes. NO VARYING in RPM.

I agree with most of what Rick says but,

Before using Lucas oil treatment, you might want to read:
What about Additives?

From Crane's web site:
CraneCams
Vary the rpm up and down in this rpm range during the first 15 to 20 minutes, (do not run the engine at a steady rpm)