428SCJ coolant operating temp ?

[Tom Kirkham]

Mark,

If your water pump has the cast impeller you have a very good water pump. If the impeller is stamped sheet metal it is not so good. The factory aluminum water pumps used the cast impeller.

From what I have seen Water Wetter is not a miracle cure. Frankly, I could never tell much of a difference.

[RICK LAKE]

Tom Kirkham IMO the March pulleys are not good for the FE motors. They have the wrong ratios for the crank to water pump. I used them and had about 20 overheating problem with this setup. I also tryed 2 different water pumps and ended up with the EDELBROCK one after removing the inspection cover and matching this up to an AC, FE motor car. I even swapped my ERA radiator from copper to aluminium Griffin one. The pulley ratio was the main overheating problem. The guys that are running your pulleys have not had the overheating problems others have had from either street driving or racing. Do you have a picture and the sizes of you pulleys for here. They are custom and really nice to look at. Rick L.

[undy]

...agree w/Rick. The March pullies have one thing in mind, reducing parasitic draw. They accomplish this by under-driving the water pump/alternator w/a larger diameter water pump pulley and/or a smaller crank pulley. I had the March pullies on mine early on experienced overheating probs. I ended up switching to a Epay'd sourced larger diameter OEM crank pulley bringing me to a 1 to 1 ratio. That with inlet and outlet shrouding brought me back where overheating now is a thing of the past, totally.

Dave

[Mark Deluca]

Thanks eveyone. Rick I believed I sent you a replay but if you did not get it I will repeat it. I currently am having an alumium raidator made. according to the shop owner the size should handle up to 650hp. I did find out that the electric fan is only rated at 1700cfm. again shop owner states that should be enough to handle cooling FE. He did talk about cooling the engine compartment. Rick I stopped at a marine store bought a 3" attwood bilge pump blower. My concern is to vent it out the side lovers it would need to mounted close to them. This would put the plastic blower above the headers. It you did this Rick did you have a problem with header heat melting or worping the fan? Do you think that wrapping the headers would help? Thanks again all.
Mark

[RICK LAKE]

Mark Deluca Mark Here is what I have done to control heat under the hood. My first hood was the stock one with a set of KR-500 louvers bonded into it. This gave the hot air somewhere to go. They helped. My whole engine compartment is insolated. I have my header tubes in these socks that have small clamps on the bottom to keep the heat in. ERA has 2 shields built between the foot boxes and the inner fenders. I have added the sticky reflection tape that they use for there foot box protections. I also have the screens and opening in the inner fenders for a little more air flow. I am running a Paxton hood on the car now and have alot more air getting forced through the engine compartment. I have the 1 4" fans mounted on each of the shields under the hood to pull out the air through the louvers. They flow 280cfm. I have them doubled rapped with the reflection tape for the heat. I have not been to the track to test them. I have also changed the front openings in the nose of the car for blowing more air on the front brakes. I am going to add a duct to the top of the brake ducts for fresh air to go back to the foot boxes. I have taken the era insolation and doubled it where ever I could install it. The down side is the trans and rearend are getting too hot. Have to look at cooling down this problem. I am going to try Amsoil for the trans. If this doesn't work I will be adding a trans cooler along the rail of the car and weldon pump. The same is possible for the rearend. The other idea is to add more blowers to the rear brakes and rearend. Anything to move the dead air from this area. Don C had the neat idea of a snorkel to the rear brakes on his ERA. Work in process, It never ends. Rick L.