Suppliers for dry sump?

[SoTxButler]

Anthony,

The Dove pan was a 2-piece pan and I could not stop it from leaking. Other than leaking a little...it worked fine.

No leaks...none...with the Dailey pan.

[RICK LAKE]

SoTxButler Russ do you still have the Dove setup?? There are no gaskets between the pump and oil pan? Have seen a couple of pictures and hard to tell what is going on. If the pump a spur gear or rotorgear setup. How do you adjust the belt for this? Any good pictures would be nice. Rick L. Ps if it's to machined aluminum surfaces, I can seal them.

[Ken Oikawa]

[DMXF]

Does everyone here with DS seal up the engine to maximize vacuum, ie; plug up vents like on the oil breather cap, etc? I believe you're typically supposed to have a small dia vent line from the crankcase running to the DS tank, but otherwise seal it up. My factory race engine has the old Shelby American dry sump setup, however, which I doubt has anywhere near the suction power of modern setups, so have been vacillating on how necessary it is to make sure the crankcase is sealed......with very low vacuum it may be better to vent?

[scottj]

Originally Posted by Dcmgt

Does everyone here with DS seal up the engine to maximize vacuum, ie; plug up vents like on the oil breather cap, etc? I believe you're typically supposed to have a small dia vent line from the crankcase running to the DS tank, but otherwise seal it up. My factory race engine has the old Shelby American dry sump setup, however, which I doubt has anywhere near the suction power of modern setups, so have been vacillating on how necessary it is to make sure the crankcase is sealed......with very low vacuum it may be better to vent?

No, I never ran a sealed motor that saw double duty in a track/street application, but do run all the race-only motors sealed. The main reason we ran the race stuff sealed was for the power advantage of the low tension/friction ring packages and gas-ported pistons. The gas ported stuff runs very thin, low friction rings that only seals on the combustion stroke. On the other three strokes the ring pack is doing very little and relys on DS vacuum to control oil consumption. We also run rods with EDM holes to oil the wristpins, special crank seals for vacuum, one-way pop-off valve, and silicone every gasket surface... among other things. On an all-out motor for a racing application there is a definite benefit, but I do not run that set up on the street... I vent.

[DMXF]

Thanks Scott. If you can benefit (ie; more HP) from generating a vacuum even on your street engines with the higher tension ring packs, then why not keep the crankcase sealed on those engines too?

[scottj]

Originally Posted by Dcmgt

Thanks Scott. If you can benefit (ie; more HP) from generating a vacuum even on your street engines with the higher tension ring packs, then why not keep the crankcase sealed on those engines too?

Good question... we didn't see significant gains on the dyno with the street combo and that was on the same dyno with the dyno drysump system. On the other hand, the dirt LM engines that were built to run sealed, I think we picked up about 15hp @ 10" making 800+ hp.

I know the new Z06 Vette drysumped LS7 motors are running lower tension rings for a street application, probably to increase fuel economy, but they also have oil control issues. The track guys are going to vacuum pumps or a Dailey system on these. I've also gone to a modified LS7 in the Cobra.

For my Cobra I just wanted a low maintenance, reliable, street/track motor. I didn't want to send the pump out all the time to insure it was in the condition required to pull vacuum. In fact, being that is was a SCP 4-stage pump, it wasn't a good enough pump to pull vacuum (for a sealed application) when it was new.

[vector1]

[/quote]I've also gone to a modified LS7 in the Cobra.[/quote]

smartest thing i've heard in a long time.

i set up my 9.5 windsor dart block with dry sump system. the system is now sealed with appropriate seals and pulls vacuum. don't know exactly how much or hp gains, but motor sounds different. this is with low tension oil rings and normal top rings. ran it initially as an open system. dry sump is nice if you can get over the cost and everything works as planned. i'd budget at least $2500 for aftermarket system, by the time you get all the hoses etc. would i do it again, yes, i think the advantages outweigh the work involved. you can also gain ground clearance. as scott has done, this would be the way i would do it if done again and work out all the modifications. mine has an avaid pump, and i don't know if i'd use it again, it was doable though with their brackets, didn't research others.