Suppliers for dry sump?

[DMXF]

Thanks Scott. If you can benefit (ie; more HP) from generating a vacuum even on your street engines with the higher tension ring packs, then why not keep the crankcase sealed on those engines too?

[scottj]

Originally Posted by Dcmgt

Thanks Scott. If you can benefit (ie; more HP) from generating a vacuum even on your street engines with the higher tension ring packs, then why not keep the crankcase sealed on those engines too?

Good question... we didn't see significant gains on the dyno with the street combo and that was on the same dyno with the dyno drysump system. On the other hand, the dirt LM engines that were built to run sealed, I think we picked up about 15hp @ 10" making 800+ hp.

I know the new Z06 Vette drysumped LS7 motors are running lower tension rings for a street application, probably to increase fuel economy, but they also have oil control issues. The track guys are going to vacuum pumps or a Dailey system on these. I've also gone to a modified LS7 in the Cobra.

For my Cobra I just wanted a low maintenance, reliable, street/track motor. I didn't want to send the pump out all the time to insure it was in the condition required to pull vacuum. In fact, being that is was a SCP 4-stage pump, it wasn't a good enough pump to pull vacuum (for a sealed application) when it was new.

[vector1]

[/quote]I've also gone to a modified LS7 in the Cobra.[/quote]

smartest thing i've heard in a long time.

i set up my 9.5 windsor dart block with dry sump system. the system is now sealed with appropriate seals and pulls vacuum. don't know exactly how much or hp gains, but motor sounds different. this is with low tension oil rings and normal top rings. ran it initially as an open system. dry sump is nice if you can get over the cost and everything works as planned. i'd budget at least $2500 for aftermarket system, by the time you get all the hoses etc. would i do it again, yes, i think the advantages outweigh the work involved. you can also gain ground clearance. as scott has done, this would be the way i would do it if done again and work out all the modifications. mine has an avaid pump, and i don't know if i'd use it again, it was doable though with their brackets, didn't research others.

[SoTxButler]

Rick Lake...Yes, I still have the Dove dry sump pan. There is no adjustment on the belt...just a gilmer pully to the crank. The surface between the pump section (front of the pan) and the rear section of the pan is a machined aluminum surface. The internal oil pump is in the stock position and the scavenge pump is on the passenger side and there is a tube running the length of the pan from the scavenge pump.

The reason it leaked is that there is a internal bolt to the block that is hidden inside the front portion of the pan on the passenger side. In order to reach that bolt, you have to slide the rear part of the pan toward the rear, but the bellhousing won't allow enough movement to "slide" it off the scavenge tube.

So, remember, I just started out trying to stop the leak between the front and rear parts of the pan. I thought, just remove the pan, clean everything up, use some good RTV (gray stuff), tighten the pan bolts real good and everything would be good. Not going to happen without pulling the transmission, clutch and bell housing. Not pretty. So, I got it off but it now needs a little work...LOL...but still usable.

Anyway, the system is a good one...uses the stock oil pump driven off the distributor and a scavenge pump driven off the gilmer pulley. I just decided to go with a new external pump and scavenge system and will probably make a sculpture out of the old one. The Dailey pump, pan and suction manifold is a work of art. I am very pleased. There are some pics of the Dailey pan posted in my profile.