Winter Upgrade - Megasquirt

Luce · #1 (**permalink**) 12-29-2011, 04:26 AM

Hey, that's brilliant. You could use the Aeromotive fuel pump controller to run the waterpump, if it draws less than 40 amps.

I passed on the Aeromotive controller due to cost. It's $20 worth of parts that I couldn't justify paying over $300 for. I was originally thinking about the speed controller when I was looking at their huge fuel pumps and was thinking how I'll only be using 5% of the fuel they were pumping 90% of the time. I then found a more reasonably sized in tank fuel pump that wouldn't be such a burden on teh electrical system and cost $450 less than the bigger pump and controller.

If you read past the space aged digital gobbelly gook, the controller is a pulse width modulator that uses the inductance of the motor and a flyback diode. It turns the motor off and on thousands of times per second. The diode prevents the energy in the inductor (the motor in this case) from being wasted as a spark, and the motor sees a reduced voltage, making it run slower. Provided you don't stall the motor, it's harmless and increases the motors life, again, provided you're not running it so slow and bogged down that you're hampering its cooling method.

A friend of mine was giving me grief about the messy disarray my garage is in. My reply was I don't have time to clean during my "stolen moments" in the garage.

And, I have mine idling and revving quite nicely, but I'm on wild goose chases with Marty at Ford Racing as we dance around the leaky valve stem seal issue.(see the 427 burning oil thread on the small block forum) My Mr gasket material blew out between the primary and side pipe, so I can't use the O2 sensor until I get some gasket material. I'm thinking a sheet of copper and forming a bead around the 4 tubes.

bobcowan · #2 (**permalink**) 12-29-2011, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Caprimaniac

Hi.
So, Bob- you're sitting in front of the christmas tree, legs crossed as to do tailor- work, with the wire bundle in your lap, pliers in your hand..... I saw this in a glimpse and had to write it down.

Yeah, it was kind of like that! I got some good garage time during the three day week end. I finished the harness, and got it all installed. Last night I started to button things up, and ran across a couple of small things that need attention. I won't get back to it until the middle of next week, though.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Luce

My Mr gasket material blew out between the primary and side pipe, so I can't use the O2 sensor until I get some gasket material. I'm thinking a sheet of copper and forming a bead around the 4 tubes.

I havn't used a header gasket in years. Nothing but copper hi temp silicone sealer. It never fails, even with all the track time I get.

Luce · #3 (**permalink**) 12-30-2011, 08:10 AM

Hi temp silicone? I'll dress up the mating flange a little and try it. Thanks!

Caprimaniac · #4 (**permalink**) 01-15-2012, 02:44 AM

If you read past the space aged digital gobbelly gook, the controller is a pulse width modulator that uses the inductance of the motor and a flyback diode. It turns the motor off and on thousands of times per second. The diode prevents the energy in the inductor (the motor in this case) from being wasted as a spark, and the motor sees a reduced voltage, making it run slower. Provided you don't stall the motor, it's harmless and increases the motors life, again, provided you're not running it so slow and bogged down that you're hampering its cooling method.

Thanks, Luce. I will have a chat with my old man about this; he's retired electro- engineering. He actually made me a - what is it called.. a resistor... to make a 2- speed control for the water pump; ignition on the pumpe runs at 1/3 speed, and when water temp reaches some 85 degrees (C) the pump goes on full together with the fans. Works great, so far.

Yup; the downside with the Aeromotive controller is the costs, for sure. One for the fuel, one for the water and one for the fans?

Yeah; been reading the 427 threads & find it strange these "high end" companys deliver parts with this kind of flaws. Although they're giving good customer follow- up on this. It will all end well, I'm sure.

I find using copper gaskets working well for headers. As for exhaust tubing I use clamps only. Used a flanged 3- bolt with copper gasket earlier; ran out of space as they hit the ground & leaked.

Good to hear your harness is coming together, Bob. The EFI- parts for my 347 is to arrive next week. Eager to get it together? Yes. Prepared to take on all the troubles I will meet? Don't think so....