Help - going on my 3rd Flywheel :(

Kramer · #1 (**permalink**) 01-31-2013, 01:34 PM

Thanks Sammy (and others). FWIW, I was looking through the engine documentation and it seems initial timing was set at 35 degrees (many samples were run some as low as 32). Also the Flywheel is a MCL billit alluminum flywheel.

Rick - thanks - I have sent you a PM

I am going to measure / review as much as possible this weekend b/c I did not install the motor. Once the building had it ready, I had another party install the motor, bellhousing and twm stack injection. He and I have talked this as well b/c he put the second flywheel starter in and talked with Robb at RobbMC to make sure specs were right. Thus I don't have much more information to go on this point.

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 01-31-2013, 02:11 PM

If it was me, I'd put a red mark on the balancer about where the 35 BTDC line is then, with the car off, I'd put the timing light on it and have the trigger pulled while I had someone start it up, all just to see if I'm anywhere close to that red mark upon start up....

SSSammy · #3 (**permalink**) 01-31-2013, 02:37 PM

Assuming an FE is an FE, 35 deg is about where you want to be at full advance, when running at 3000 rpm. Idle is probably 15 deg or thereabouts. If you have a mechanical (centrifugal) advance distributor, it has a bushing that is intended to stop the advance at 20 deg past whatever you set it at when idling. I seem to remember this parameter can be changed by changing the size of the bushing. You can hold a light on it while someone works the throttle and watch it go from 15 to 35 as the rpms approach 3000.

The colored springs on the advance mechanism (under the rotor) can be swapped out to control the rpm where the engine reaches max advance .. dependent on intended use.

Sam

patrickt · #4 (**permalink**) 01-31-2013, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SSSammy

Assuming an FE is an FE, 35 deg is about where you want to be at full advance,

....

The colored springs on the advance mechanism (under the rotor) can be swapped out to control the rpm where the engine reaches max advance .. dependent on intended use.

That's with your and my setup. With the full ECU running the timing show you have to set it up differently, as per those threads that I posted, else you're going to end up with 30, 40, or 50 degrees at startup. Putting a light on it with someone starting it up for him will at least tell him if something is really amiss.

DonC · #5 (**permalink**) 06-04-2013, 07:49 AM

FWIW when you reinstall the transmission. Get a couple of long bolts the same size as the mounting bolts that hold the transmission to the block. Hand thread them into the upper two mounting holes in the back of the block, figure out how much depth you'll need with the transmission attached to allow them to stick out about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch and cut them off at that length. Slot the cut off end with a Dremel tool or a grinder with a cut off wheel. Make the cuts wide enough so you can get a large screw driver into them.
When the transmission is ready to go back in hand thread the cut off bolts into the back of the block and use the cut off bolts as pilots for when you slide the transmission back onto the engine. They will help getting everything aligned and support the weight of the transmission until you get the lower bolts in and snugged up. Use a large screw driver to remove the "pilot" bolts one at a time and replace them with the regular transmission bolts.
Saw them using this method at ERA when they put my transmission in and it has worked for me when I had my transmission out.
It won't be easy to get it in but it can be done. Helps to have an extra set of hands for about 15 minutes to get the transmission lifted into place. Once in the rest is just a matter of getting everything tightened down.
DonC