Help - going on my 3rd Flywheel :(

[Kramer]

[patrickt]

Yes, I found them in your photo album. It looks to me like the gears are only cathing the "tips" of one another. Just like the "small wear pattern" diagram in the manual.

[SSSammy]

Going back a few pics ... notice the toothed wear pattern on the face of the FW gear ring. This suggests to to me, along with the photo of the worn pinion in the next post, that there is too much engagement and the pinion gear is bottoming out on the FW ring. Solution would be to shim out the starter by .030" or so.

Sam

Originally Posted by Kramer

[Kramer]

Fatboy - thanks for the reminder- however I am have not. I am going to check that today.

Patrick - the picture is a bit of an illusion. in this picture there is no engagement as the starter gear is fully resessed....I just wanted to show that picture so you can see the depth of the alignment as if it the starter was "out"

Sammy - i came to the same conclusion. PS. Thank you for all your help!!!

[RICK LAKE]

Kramer Having the starter bolted to the block plate is a ball park measurement. If the pin holes are tight to the block pins then you are close with getting the correct air gap of the ring gear to the flywheel teeth. The old numbers has been .035"-.050" this is min and max. The flywheel may also be not 100% spinning true on the crank shaft. Another thing to take into account is the end play of the crank shaft. We never checked this. This could be from .005" up to .020". The easy way I have found is the check 4 spots at 90 degrees on the flywheel and engage the bendix. If you have the correct clearance, bolt it up. If not make have to play some more. Old picture show a complete engagement of teeth to flywheel, just looks light on depth. I know you want to keep the OEM setup for the starter, but a gear reduction starter may be the better way to go. A paper clip is about .032" for an easy check or wire coat hanger, they are a little thicker. Rick L.