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Discussion Tools

07-21-2015 02:14 PM - permalink

cycleguy55

Xack:
I haven't installed a wind blocker yet, but I'm sure giving it serious thought.

Have you considered using rivet nuts or threaded metal inserts? I know my LBS (Local Bicycle Shop) uses them to install inserts that can be used for water bottles or even pannier racks. They'll take a fair amount of weight.

Examples:
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr

Interesting that McMaster-Carr have stainless steel inserts.

I bought my insert tool and a small assortment of fasteners from Princess Auto, the Canadian counterpart to Harbor Freight (45 Piece Threaded Insert Riveter Kit).

07-24-2015 05:42 PM - permalink

Xack

I think I know what your saying. I used steel ones 3/8" on my frame to hold the muffler bracket. I have pics on my gallery of a tool I made to install them. It's a big hole to drill and I worry about weakening the frame.

07-25-2015 12:11 PM - permalink

cycleguy55

I would think you'd need to go no bigger than 1/4" bolts for the wind blocker. Those require 3/8" or 25/64" holes so, while not small, they're not enormously large either. I'm probably going to drill my roll bar and use these when I get to installing a wind blocker.

BOBOCobra had 4 mount points and had some cracking, so I'm thinking of using 6 - one on each vertical leg and 4 across the horizontal portion. Will that be sufficient? More / less?

07-30-2015 01:36 PM - permalink

Xack

What do you have in mind? Cut 1/2" off a 2" aluminum angle stock? Drill a hole in each tab to mount to the bar and the glass? Or, smaller angle in a strip on the straight parts of the bar mounted to the underside. You could cut gaps at 1" intervals around the corner radius to roll the angle in the corners. Then you would have a continuous frame to mount the Lexan at any interval you want. Also, this would produce no gaps in the bar-to-glass behind you.

08-03-2015 12:02 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

On mine I don't think it was a matter of the number of tabs holding it as much as it was the clamp force and the flex due to the wind at hiway speeds. I did not want a fastener on the bottom and drill the body so I have some flex in the wind screen. What I did was really simple as I used a rubber grommet on each side of the screen to be able to clamp the bolts tight. In order to prevent stress the inner grommet sleeve is slightly shorter than the grommet to grommet depth and I clamp on the sleeve. The force on the grommet holds it all tight. I just used scrap tubing I had laying around for the sleeve. I have had it up to 100+ (officially less than 75 per the speed limit) with no problems. Did a 5 hour cruise at 70-75 mph last weekend and no problems. Bolts are 1/4-20 and the sleeve is barely larger ID. Keep it simple.

08-04-2015 10:33 AM - permalink

Xack

Bobo,
As I recall you have welded tabs on your bar. I pictured a bracket. Now if you have channel which is attached along the bottom and inside of the roll bar you can capture the glass and also put rubber inside as you say. Put a small tube on the inside of the hole in the glass such that it does not contact metal and then floats if it flexes.

08-04-2015 05:48 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

I thought about the channel until I made my pattern. The roll bar is not symmetrical so making the channel that is stiff enough and getting a good fit against an asymmetrical pipe and getting it to look good felt like a huge project for a $100 wind screen.

08-05-2015 05:11 AM - permalink

Xack

OK , I was thinking I would trace it out on a pattern first and get that fitting well, then cut the glass to match. You probably would need to grind here and there, but it shouldn't be much worse than your pattern.

08-07-2015 03:07 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Maybe I misunderstood. The glass pattern was easy. I wanted a small gap between the screen and the bar in case it decided to whistle. I liked the tabs instead of brackets or clamps as they are pretty small and non-intrusive.
Your comment mentioned a channel, I envisioned something similar to an upper windshield frame connected to the roll bar that captured the screen on three sides. That is the part I did not think would end up as clean as it could be without a lot of work if it was to be stiff enough to handle the wind. My roll bar is basically 3" exhaust tube bent asymmetrically (not sure if by accident or by design) and attaching a frame would be tough. In the end for me it came down to cost/time versus benefit. I will say below 70 mph it helps a lot with the side wind wings positioned correctly.

08-08-2015 10:09 AM - permalink

Xack

That's the question. Will stainless rivet nuts 1/4-20 hold the back screen?, and how many anchor points on the bar, and how many through holes in the glass and through the channel? If they are too close to the edge, it may crack, then how thick to avoid cracking? I don't think there will be any stress in the system when mounted. The stress will come from vibration. If you use rubber mounts on each clinch point on the glass in the channel, that should work. I don't mean to second guess you at all. I have wondered how to make the install as invisible as possible, look good and still function at speed. If you block the edges like you said, does that really cause issues? The pressure just goes around the bar. That's just my thought. Did you encounter problems by blocking the area inside the bar?

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