Removing Play in carburetor Secondary shift?

[blykins]

Patrick, we don't need any goading....

And no, I'm not calling anyone a liar. However, the last email I got was that the idle speed cut the lugging in half. Idling an engine with a large cam down to 700 rpm is not necessarily the best situation. You bumped it up to 900 and it helped things out, right?

I have not picked up on any degree of frustration from your emails and I'm willing to post those publicly so that everyone else will see what I'm seeing.

Frankly, slandering my engine building skills isn't the best idea just because you can not tune a carburetor.

Custom carburetors will be built to the best of our knowledge of the customer's engine, location, specs, etc. Most of our carbs are pretty dead-on....others require minor tweaks, such as a slight IFR change in John's case.

Selling a carb to someone who has never touched one before is always a liability to me. Customers expect to bolt a carb up to a large displacement engine with a large camshaft, ported heads, etc. and expect it to drive off like a new Honda Civic.

Taking a car to an "expert mechanic" and having them say, "I don't know, try this..." doesn't really fit my idea of exhausting a supply of ideas....

The logic still doesn't apply here: you're willing to just let an "experienced mechanic" tell you to swap carbs and they don't know what else to try.....but yet you put back on a Holley that is worn out and you're willing to replace base plates, throttle shafts, bushings, rebuild, etc.

Here's the last batch of emails I got:

****

Me:

I would adjust the idle a lot higher....with the cam and other parts
involved, it doesn't need to be idling at 700. I would permanently
set the idle at 900-950.

****

You:

Set the idle just a hair under a thousand went for a short ride both
conditions seem improved, tugging seems to be cut in half and the idle
only drops to a bit above 900 which is fine with me.

Maybe it's just the nature of the beast or I am being too picky or
shouldn't downshift so much but this thing is become like a musical instrument to me just listening to the sounds of the motor accelerating and decelerating really gets me going, it's funny how I hope for the lights to turn red and never get tired of shifting this thing :-)

Thank you

Dennis

****

My response was:

Hahaha, that's the beauty of owning a Cobra man...

Where's your timing set?

****

Good question I had a mechanic check it about a year ago and he said it
was right on. Where would you recommend it to be?

And what do you think about downshifting? Upon watching quite a few of
Jay's boring :-) BDR videos I notice he doesn't much.


****

I'd say around 16-18 degrees initial with 34-36 total on the timing.

As for downshifting, I don't let the engine pull the car down from like
3000-4000, but I will use it in combination with braking. I tend to be
easy on both brakes and clutches. If I buy a factory manual transmission
car, it's usually due for brakes at around 70-80k and the clutch will need
changed at about 150k.

****



That was the last email I got from you. Did I miss one? I will say that you asked about the jets, but you had also contacted QFT before contacting me. There's not much I can do after someone else tells a customer to change this, change that, etc. I can't keep up with everything in that situation.

I'll offer this to you as I have everyone else. I stand behind my carburetors. If you are unhappy with it, I'll give you your money back.

However, IMO, there is something that we're missing that would totally clear this issue up. The last email is the last I've heard from you, and your reply on that email doesn't coincide with your last comment here (in front of everyone) that you're glad you just bought a carburetor and not a complete engine.