Removing Play in carburetor Secondary shift?

[D111]

Anyone know if it's possible to remove the play in a secondary shaft of a Holley 770 St. avenger carburetor?

I notice Some wiggle play And When I spray carburetor cleaner onto the shift where it enters the baseplate engine idle And vacuum increases Considerably .

Looking at the Shafts on Line it looks like the primary has O-rings but not the secondary?

[FWB]

Originally Posted by D111

Anyone know if it's possible to remove the play in a secondary shaft of a Holley 770 St. avenger carburetor?

I notice Some wiggle play And When I spray carburetor cleaner onto the shift where it enters the baseplate engine idle And vacuum increases Considerably .

Looking at the Shafts on Line it looks like the primary has O-rings but not the secondary?

not making sense.......spray non-flammable carb cleaner and it idles up....?

[D111]

My carburetor cleaner says Extremely flammable.

[Rick Parker]

The baseplate can be changed to have bushings installed to lessen the clearance or the base plate and throttle shafts can be replaced together. Either way you have to get rid of the air leak at the shaft. The looseness will also prevent the throttle plates from closing properly and you will have an idle that sometimes is higher than others, and it may change after bliping the throttle. Just a worn shaft and base plate.

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by D111

Anyone know if it's possible to remove the play in a secondary shaft of a Holley 770 St. avenger carburetor?

I notice Some wiggle play And When I spray carburetor cleaner onto the shift where it enters the baseplate engine idle And vacuum increases Considerably .

Looking at the Shafts on Line it looks like the primary has O-rings but not the secondary?

Holley uses nylon "bands" which are crap, no o-rings.

You can rebush them with a bronze bush, but if it's a vacuum secondary it can't be as tight as the primary.

Originally Posted by FWB

not making sense.......spray non-flammable carb cleaner and it idles up....?

All carb cleaner I've ever used is flammable.

[D111]

AED Performance 7960 - AED Bronze Throttle Shaft Bushings - Overview - SummitRacing.com

[jhv48]

Just replace the baseplate. Simply unscrew old one and screw on new one. Problem solved.

Don't mess with trying to reseal the shaft.

[D111]

Originally Posted by jhv48

Just replace the baseplate. Simply unscrew old one and screw on new one. Problem solved.

Don't mess with trying to reseal the shaft.

Yes, I just spoke with Holley And they said I could send it in for $70 and they will examine it and if they determine that it needs to be replaced they will replace it. But if not I wasted 70 bucks so I found it on Amazon and I will just replace it myself I think there's a Bit of linkage to hook up for the vacuum secondaries.

Holley 112-115 Throttle Body Kit : Amazon.com : Automotive

[blykins]

I'm having trouble understanding the logic here...

You have a brand new Quick Fuel carb that just needs a few minutes of tuning to get rid of the lagging issue that you're having. You're not willing to look into the fix with that, but you're willing to completely rebuild an older Holley that has a baseplate/shaft issue?

That QFT carb is heads/shoulders above the Holley....it just needs tweaked.

[D111]

Originally Posted by blykins

I'm having trouble understanding the logic here...

You have a brand new Quick Fuel carb that just needs a few minutes of tuning to get rid of the lagging issue that you're having. You're not willing to look into the fix with that, but you're willing to completely rebuild an older Holley that has a baseplate/shaft issue?

That QFT carb is heads/shoulders above the Holley....it just needs tweaked.

Sorry I must disagree I've been working with this problem for almost 2 months since I purchased the carburetor from you, even contacted Quick Fuel a few times
Their recommendation was to enlarge the primary Jets but I wasn't sure if they were possibly changed by you and you were going to contact your carburetor builder and get back to me with what actually was done if anything to the carburetor but you never did or let me speak to the gentleman that supposedly got the carburetor setup for my motor. It came with no jetting sheet at all so I do not even know what is done to the carburetor.
As per your recommendation

I've brought the car to
a local engine builder and another very experienced mechanic and they can't seem to figure it out but the last gentleman told me to just put your old carburetor on and see what happens and I did and the tugging is gone
Unfortunately I must say I'm glad it was just a carburetor and not a complete engine that I purchased

[blykins]

Would you like for me to post your email messages here publicly?

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by blykins

Would you like for me to post your email messages here publicly?

Ooooh, now this sounds interesting....

[D111]

Originally Posted by blykins

Would you like for me to post your email messages here publicly?

Are you kidding me absolutely everything I said in the previous posts is absolutely true and I was trying to be nice did you not say you were going to get back to me and you didn't
you kept recommending that was some other issues in the carburetor matter fact when I get home later I will post them I'm working from my phone at work you seem like a nice enough guy so I didn't wanna throw you under the bus but my goodness are you telling me I'm a liar

[D111]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Ooooh, now this sounds interesting....

Hey you be quiet Patrick you started this whole thing with telling me to clear out my air bleeds :-)

[D111]

Originally Posted by blykins

Would you like for me to post your email messages here publicly?

It would be nice if you could list what was actually done with the carburetor and what it has in it being that it doesn't have the manufactures sheet even. When I give it to someone at least they will know.

[blykins]

Patrick, we don't need any goading....

And no, I'm not calling anyone a liar. However, the last email I got was that the idle speed cut the lugging in half. Idling an engine with a large cam down to 700 rpm is not necessarily the best situation. You bumped it up to 900 and it helped things out, right?

I have not picked up on any degree of frustration from your emails and I'm willing to post those publicly so that everyone else will see what I'm seeing.

Frankly, slandering my engine building skills isn't the best idea just because you can not tune a carburetor.

Custom carburetors will be built to the best of our knowledge of the customer's engine, location, specs, etc. Most of our carbs are pretty dead-on....others require minor tweaks, such as a slight IFR change in John's case.

Selling a carb to someone who has never touched one before is always a liability to me. Customers expect to bolt a carb up to a large displacement engine with a large camshaft, ported heads, etc. and expect it to drive off like a new Honda Civic.

Taking a car to an "expert mechanic" and having them say, "I don't know, try this..." doesn't really fit my idea of exhausting a supply of ideas....

The logic still doesn't apply here: you're willing to just let an "experienced mechanic" tell you to swap carbs and they don't know what else to try.....but yet you put back on a Holley that is worn out and you're willing to replace base plates, throttle shafts, bushings, rebuild, etc.

Here's the last batch of emails I got:

****

Me:

I would adjust the idle a lot higher....with the cam and other parts
involved, it doesn't need to be idling at 700. I would permanently
set the idle at 900-950.

****

You:

Set the idle just a hair under a thousand went for a short ride both
conditions seem improved, tugging seems to be cut in half and the idle
only drops to a bit above 900 which is fine with me.

Maybe it's just the nature of the beast or I am being too picky or
shouldn't downshift so much but this thing is become like a musical instrument to me just listening to the sounds of the motor accelerating and decelerating really gets me going, it's funny how I hope for the lights to turn red and never get tired of shifting this thing :-)

Thank you

Dennis

****

My response was:

Hahaha, that's the beauty of owning a Cobra man...

Where's your timing set?

****

Good question I had a mechanic check it about a year ago and he said it
was right on. Where would you recommend it to be?

And what do you think about downshifting? Upon watching quite a few of
Jay's boring :-) BDR videos I notice he doesn't much.


****

I'd say around 16-18 degrees initial with 34-36 total on the timing.

As for downshifting, I don't let the engine pull the car down from like
3000-4000, but I will use it in combination with braking. I tend to be
easy on both brakes and clutches. If I buy a factory manual transmission
car, it's usually due for brakes at around 70-80k and the clutch will need
changed at about 150k.

****



That was the last email I got from you. Did I miss one? I will say that you asked about the jets, but you had also contacted QFT before contacting me. There's not much I can do after someone else tells a customer to change this, change that, etc. I can't keep up with everything in that situation.

I'll offer this to you as I have everyone else. I stand behind my carburetors. If you are unhappy with it, I'll give you your money back.

However, IMO, there is something that we're missing that would totally clear this issue up. The last email is the last I've heard from you, and your reply on that email doesn't coincide with your last comment here (in front of everyone) that you're glad you just bought a carburetor and not a complete engine.

[D111]

I'll offer this to you as I have everyone else. I stand behind my carburetors. If you are unhappy with it, I'll give you your money back.

However, IMO, there is something that we're missing that would totally clear this issue up. The last email is the last I've heard from you, and your reply on that email doesn't coincide with your last comment here (in front of everyone) that you're glad you just bought a carburetor and not a complete engine.[/QUOTE
Okay I'm not going to fight with you it will be on its way back to you in 2 days what's the address you would like to shiped to?

[blykins]

B2 Motorsports
524 Reserves Ct.
Simpsonville, KY 40067

Good luck with the Holley rebuild.

[D111]

Originally Posted by blykins

B2 Motorsports
524 Reserves Ct.
Simpsonville, KY 40067

Good luck with the Holley rebuild.

thanks

[Cashburn]

Keep me out of this. I drive around with Quick Fuel carbs all the time... and brand new clutches