Why do I have high fuel pressure... - Page 9

patrickt · #**161** (**permalink**) 06-20-2017, 04:50 AM

OK, you're all set then. Here's a pic though anyway. A properly functioning 31 squirter, and the regular old plain Jane screw (not the hollow one) will do you just fine. After all, you're not Morris hitting 190 on the straights....

steve meltzer · #**162** (**permalink**) 06-20-2017, 06:04 AM

Yep, that's it. gotta make sure it's the "31" squirter. thanx and i'll keep you posted. s

Gaz64 · #**163** (**permalink**) 06-20-2017, 03:14 PM

Might be just me, but I don't like that nozzle to mainbody gasket, too thick.

Guess what happens to it as it is tightened down.

steve meltzer · #**164** (**permalink**) 06-20-2017, 03:18 PM

could be. what do you do/use? s

Gaz64 · #**165** (**permalink**) 06-20-2017, 03:23 PM

My kits come with thinner (about .010) almost paper thick gaskets, for top and bottom of the nozzle.
The top one deforms to the taper, the bottom one stays flat and doesn't restrict the fuel passage.

patrickt · #**166** (**permalink**) 06-20-2017, 04:50 PM

I think Gaz is right. This thread on the Holley forum https://forums.holley.com/showthread...charge-Nozzles has a Holley administrator saying that you use the same gasket above and below and it's the skinny stuff that comes in a package of ten.

Gaz64 · #**167** (**permalink**) 06-20-2017, 05:07 PM

Thanks for the clarification Patrick.

Here I was thinking I've been doing it wrong for ages.

steve meltzer · #**168** (**permalink**) 06-20-2017, 07:33 PM

well, now i'm confused! should they both be the soft, paper thin type or the sl. concave very thin metal type? the picture from Holley looks like they're metal.

My current squirter, driven by the red cam, as noted before, is a 35, but i have several extra squirters, including a 31. suggestions? Bone stock carb (i thought) and stock 327/350 'Vette. thanx again. s

patrickt · #**169** (**permalink**) 06-21-2017, 04:41 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

well, now i'm confused! should they both be the soft, paper thin type or the sl. concave very thin metal type? the picture from Holley looks like they're metal.

My current squirter, driven by the red cam, as noted before, is a 35, but i have several extra squirters, including a 31. suggestions? Bone stock carb (i thought) and stock 327/350 'Vette. thanx again. s

When replacing the squirter gaskets, both above and below, Holley recommends using Part #1008-844 in both positions. This is true even if one of the original gaskets looked a little fatter than the other.

I stand by my recommendation of an orange cam, using hole #1, and a 31 squirter. Blow out the passageway with compressed air while you have it all apart -- there's always a chance that a little piece of crud got in there.

steve meltzer · #**170** (**permalink**) 06-21-2017, 07:28 AM

as my nurse would say "oakley doakley".s

steve meltzer · #**171** (**permalink**) 07-10-2017, 06:49 AM

OK, with a 31 squirter and the orange cam, the car runs well. The 35 had a sl. stall and the 31 is an improvement, but wonder if a 33 might be even better. (The enemy of good is better!) Might try that, but want to drive the car a bit more. However, of course it's raining, so I'm on hold. The start of all of this was the fuel pump on the Cobra and then a bad ring gear on the flywheel. Hope to move the Cobra onto the lift next weekend and get started on that project. thanx again. s

patrickt · #**172** (**permalink**) 07-10-2017, 07:24 PM

You know, with the orange cam you don't have to do that WOT .015" feeler gauge adjustment stuff that Holley and the manuals call for. Instead, while at idle, just tighten up the adjusting screw until it comes in to contact with the lever, and then give it another quarter turn or so to give it just a little bit of preload.

steve meltzer · #**173** (**permalink**) 07-10-2017, 07:39 PM

you're a fountain of great advice. thanx. s

Gaz64 · #**174** (**permalink**) 07-10-2017, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by patrickt

You know, with the orange cam you don't have to do that WOT .015" feeler gauge adjustment stuff that Holley and the manuals call for. Instead, while at idle, just tighten up the adjusting screw until it comes in to contact with the lever, and then give it another quarter turn or so to give it just a little bit of preload.

Yes, that's correct. Back off the bolt/nut combo just enough to remove the slack.
So many think it should have .015 at idle.

steve meltzer · #**175** (**permalink**) 07-10-2017, 09:45 PM

confirmation! great! thanx. s

patrickt · #**176** (**permalink**) 07-11-2017, 01:43 PM

By the way, the only thing I can think of that would cause your "white tornado" effect would be a combination of 1) Winter Gas that percolates easy; 2) A hot engine; and 3) The floats set a bit high. First, let's get your car so that it'll crank, then we'll get it to start, then we'll get it to just run without gas or gas fog spilling out of the boosters, then we'll get the car to really run nice. But that's the last step. First, let's get it to idle without a gas fog hovering on the carb just waiting for you to bend over with a lit Lucky Strike in your mouth.

steve meltzer · #**177** (**permalink**) 07-31-2017, 08:52 AM

OK, time to report in! '67 'Vette and its Holley, running well...squirter and accelerator pump issue resolved. And.....drum roll, please....the gear box is out of the Cobra and the teeth on the flywheel are a mess. I'll send pictures when I get the bellhousing off. Should be this week. More later. thanx, steve

steve meltzer · #**178** (**permalink**) 08-06-2017, 08:34 PM

Let's see we left off with my starter and flywheel chewed up like a good steak....have had trouble with the car chewing up starters from the get go. 3 years ago, I bought a Powermaster 9506 and it did well as best I could tell. (car not driven as often as I’d like). One year ago, I had to do some tranny work and thus had to pull everything out. At that time, and it was way less than 300 miles from the current issue), the flywheel and your starter were fine. Within 200 miles, however, I had trouble with the voltage regulator (unrelated, I think) and shortly thereafter, the starter wouldn’t engage the flywheel and I pulled it. Teeth on starter were shot and all chewed up, so I got that fixed but again the newly rebuilt starter gears wouldn’t engage the flywheel and I just pulled everything out. Again, the starter gear was all chewed up but the flywheel was a disaster. Here are the pictures you requested. When I replaced the tranny, I put in a new pilot bearing and it sits about 1/32 or less “proud” to the crankshaft. I think this is OK, but would like your opinion as well.

patrickt · #**179** (**permalink**) 08-07-2017, 04:35 AM

Well, I don't see any pictures.

But I'm already prepared to opine that your flywheel needs a good dentist.

steve meltzer · #**180** (**permalink**) 08-07-2017, 06:18 AM

Not sure why the pictures didn't post, but let's try again.

What should I do differently, once the new ring gear (which I already have) is installed? (I think my dentist was named E. Bay)

Is the pilot bearing OK in it's current, very sl. "proud" postion, in relationship to the crank's rear flange?

Should I replace the pilot bearing? it's only got 300 miles on it?

thanx again. s

OK, i've tried 3X to send my picture, but before I can even upload them, i get this message in the box that allows for the upolading:

Parse error: syntax error, unexpected $end in F:\Inetpub\wwwroot\clubcobra\forums\includes\funct ions.php(5723) : eval()'d code(17) : eval()'d code on line 3

any ideas on how to upload them?