Why do I have high fuel pressure...

[steve meltzer]

Patrick, thanx for the trouble you took to shoot the photo. Got the carb on, but the carb flooded, I think....no leaking anywhere, but couldn't get it started. I think I tried too many times and now the starter whirs but won't engage. I've done about 10 Holley's in the past, so I think I rebuilt it right, but there was just too much fuel to light. Again, floats set dry, that is to say, perfectly horizontal with the bowl inverted. s

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

Patrick, thanx for the trouble you took to shoot the photo. Got the carb on, but the carb flooded, I think....no leaking anywhere, but couldn't get it started. I think I tried too many times and now the starter whirs but won't engage. I've done about 10 Holley's in the past, so I think I rebuilt it right, but there was just too much fuel to light. Again, floats set dry, that is to say, perfectly horizontal with the bowl inverted. s

OK, that's kind of interesting.... I actually set my floats without ever starting the engine. When you say the carb flooded, are you seeing gas pour out of the boosters? Usually the dry method sets the floats low, so when you crank it a little bit, and stop, you can see the level down below the sight hole. Then I just loosen the screw, adjust the nut counterclockwise, tighten the screw, put my thumb over the sight hole, crank, and recheck. After two or three adjustments, and cranking, it's done. It doesn't take a whole lot of cranking either. What do you mean the starter "whirs, but won't engage?"

[steve meltzer]

First of all, i set the floats on the bench, as noted. Followed the instructions, as I have before. To set the floats with the sight plug, the car must be running, right? Or, can you do it just cranking? And yes, fuel was coming from the primary venturis.

When everything is working correctly, and you crank the car, the sound of the starter is more of a staccato "wha-wha-wha", deeper and not all the same pitch, then the engine fires up. Now, my starter makes this high pitched sound that is constant and makes me think the pinion isn't engaging the flywheel. I wacked the starter a few times with a broom handle, but I probably need to get under there and really whack it with a rubber hammer, and probably take it out. Could it be the firewall mounted solenoid (it's only 6 mos old). I think i burned up the starter, fartin' around yesterday. thanx for seeing me through this saga. s

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

First of all, i set the floats on the bench, as noted. Followed the instructions, as I have before. To set the floats with the sight plug, the car must be running, right? Or, can you do it just cranking? And yes, fuel was coming from the primary venturis.

I always do it by cranking. I have a pressure gauge right before the carb and I use a remote starter. First, I remove one sight plug and put my thumb over the hole, then I crank for about three or four seconds to start filling the bowls, then wait, and crank it a few more seconds until I see a steady 6 or 7 psi, which tells me the floats have risen and closed off the needle and seat valve. I wait a few more seconds until I see the pressure drop back down and then I loosen the screw and turn the nut depending on whether there was too little or too much gas in the bowl (it's always too little for me, as I set the floats a little low dry). Then I put my thumb over the sight hole and crank it some more, do the same thing again, until I get it right below the sight hole. I do the other bowl the same way. I never adjust them with the engine running nor with the engine hot. Now, later on, I do double check the levels after driving the car and letting it cool down but I never do anything with the engine running or when the engine is anything but cold. For the gas to be coming out of the boosters, there must be something wrong with the interaction of the float and the needle and seat valve. Or the gas is going right by the little black O-ring. That kit comes with a bunch of valves, more than they show in the picture. Did you cross reference the little markings on your old valve to the correct new one? Did you put a dab of Vaseline on the O-ring before you slipped it in and screwed it down? Aside from using the .097 when you probably need the .110, I don't know how it could be in wrong. How many threads are peeking up above the bowl with the nut off?

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

When everything is working correctly, and you crank the car, the sound of the starter is more of a staccato "wha-wha-wha", deeper and not all the same pitch, then the engine fires up. Now, my starter makes this high pitched sound that is constant and makes me think the pinion isn't engaging the flywheel. I wacked the starter a few times with a broom handle, but I probably need to get under there and really whack it with a rubber hammer, and probably take it out. Could it be the firewall mounted solenoid (it's only 6 mos old). I think i burned up the starter, fartin' around yesterday. thanx for seeing me through this saga. s

Well, if the starter is engaging, then the engine should be turning. Of course, that means your fan belt turns, your alternator turns, everything turns. If you suspect a faulty starter solenoid, try using a big thick jumper cable across the two large positive poles, for just a second, to see if the starter will turn normally. If doing that makes the same "high pitched spinning" noise, and you see nothing moving on the engine, then the starter is suspect. Dang, now is not the time to buy a lottery ticket....

[steve meltzer]

OK, it's the starter ("jumping the solenoid" didn't change a thing. No alternator moving, WP, etc. Ran out of time (OK, wanted to nap) so I haven't gotten under the car to pull the starter. (Powermaster 6905??).

Yesterday, I hooked up my remote starter but it wouldn't start (this was BEFORE the starter failed). Might have hooked it up wrong..PLEASE refresh my memory about where the two clips are placed.

Should I put the "110s" in? I had "H"s which, according to the poop sheet, is a "97". I thought vaseline was bad for viton, so, no I didn't use it. I can tell you, as a gynecologist, that when we were "told" to use it in high school, that was bad advice!

4 Threads showing atop the primary bowl, with the adjusting nut and set screw off.

thanx. s

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

OK, it's the starter ("jumping the solenoid" didn't change a thing. No alternator moving, WP, etc. Ran out of time (OK, wanted to nap) so I haven't gotten under the car to pull the starter. (Powermaster 6905??).

Yesterday, I hooked up my remote starter but it wouldn't start (this was BEFORE the starter failed). Might have hooked it up wrong..PLEASE refresh my memory about where the two clips are placed.

Should I put the "110s" in? I had "H"s which, according to the poop sheet, is a "97". I thought vaseline was bad for viton, so, no I didn't use it. I can tell you, as a gynecologist, that when we were "told" to use it in high school, that was bad advice!

4 Threads showing atop the primary bowl, with the adjusting nut and set screw off.

thanx. s

Looking at the front of the starter solenoid, there are two connections. The one on the LEFT engages the solenoid when it is fed 12v+. (The connection on the right is to bypass your ballast resistor - ignore it.) With your remote starter switch, clamp one prong on the big pole of the starter solenoid that leads directly to the battery, put the other prong to the left connection on the front of the solenoid. When you pull the trigger on the switch, your solenoid will engage and your engine will crank (unless the starter is broken).

With an H on the old N/S, you should be using a .110 -- fortunately, switching them out is a five minute job. You do not put Vaseline down on the viton tip, you just put a light schmear on your finger and wipe the black O-ring that is in the middle of the N/S valve.

Let's start by putting in the .110 N/S valves, with a light dab of Vaseline on the O-ring, and tighten them down to where you see, just barely, 3 threads. We just want to get the car to start, idle, and not spew gas all over the engine. Then we'll get it perfect after we first get it to work.

Regarding the starter motor, I still run the old school Ford OEM starter motor -- they're about $50 and NAPA usually has them in the back of the shop. But it's usually easier to replace your starter with the same one you had in there before.

[steve meltzer]

OK, i'll switch to "110s" next.

If the e-pump were on, and thus the bowls filled (even with ignition off), why couldn't you set the floats then and there without the fuss and muss of having it running, or even just cranking it, as you do? No gas spewing, etc.

here's a picture of my solenoid. So where do i put the two remote starter clips? There are three terminals, the "IK" small terminal in the middle goes to the VR.

thanx. s