Why do I have high fuel pressure...

[steve meltzer]

OK, it's the starter ("jumping the solenoid" didn't change a thing. No alternator moving, WP, etc. Ran out of time (OK, wanted to nap) so I haven't gotten under the car to pull the starter. (Powermaster 6905??).

Yesterday, I hooked up my remote starter but it wouldn't start (this was BEFORE the starter failed). Might have hooked it up wrong..PLEASE refresh my memory about where the two clips are placed.

Should I put the "110s" in? I had "H"s which, according to the poop sheet, is a "97". I thought vaseline was bad for viton, so, no I didn't use it. I can tell you, as a gynecologist, that when we were "told" to use it in high school, that was bad advice!

4 Threads showing atop the primary bowl, with the adjusting nut and set screw off.

thanx. s

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

OK, it's the starter ("jumping the solenoid" didn't change a thing. No alternator moving, WP, etc. Ran out of time (OK, wanted to nap) so I haven't gotten under the car to pull the starter. (Powermaster 6905??).

Yesterday, I hooked up my remote starter but it wouldn't start (this was BEFORE the starter failed). Might have hooked it up wrong..PLEASE refresh my memory about where the two clips are placed.

Should I put the "110s" in? I had "H"s which, according to the poop sheet, is a "97". I thought vaseline was bad for viton, so, no I didn't use it. I can tell you, as a gynecologist, that when we were "told" to use it in high school, that was bad advice!

4 Threads showing atop the primary bowl, with the adjusting nut and set screw off.

thanx. s

Looking at the front of the starter solenoid, there are two connections. The one on the LEFT engages the solenoid when it is fed 12v+. (The connection on the right is to bypass your ballast resistor - ignore it.) With your remote starter switch, clamp one prong on the big pole of the starter solenoid that leads directly to the battery, put the other prong to the left connection on the front of the solenoid. When you pull the trigger on the switch, your solenoid will engage and your engine will crank (unless the starter is broken).

With an H on the old N/S, you should be using a .110 -- fortunately, switching them out is a five minute job. You do not put Vaseline down on the viton tip, you just put a light schmear on your finger and wipe the black O-ring that is in the middle of the N/S valve.

Let's start by putting in the .110 N/S valves, with a light dab of Vaseline on the O-ring, and tighten them down to where you see, just barely, 3 threads. We just want to get the car to start, idle, and not spew gas all over the engine. Then we'll get it perfect after we first get it to work.

Regarding the starter motor, I still run the old school Ford OEM starter motor -- they're about $50 and NAPA usually has them in the back of the shop. But it's usually easier to replace your starter with the same one you had in there before.

[steve meltzer]

OK, i'll switch to "110s" next.

If the e-pump were on, and thus the bowls filled (even with ignition off), why couldn't you set the floats then and there without the fuss and muss of having it running, or even just cranking it, as you do? No gas spewing, etc.

here's a picture of my solenoid. So where do i put the two remote starter clips? There are three terminals, the "IK" small terminal in the middle goes to the VR.

thanx. s

[patrickt]

Your starter solenoid looks to be just a three wire version of the Ford OEM solenoid that is on most of the Cobra cars. It does not have the ballast resistor bypass terminal, which would be on the right. Here is a pic of the traditional solenoid that is on my car, and zillions of the other Ford based electrical systems:


Place one alligator clip on that single terminal on the front of your solenoid. Place the other alligator clip on whichever one of those two big red cables goes directly to the battery. When you pull the trigger, you will hear a big "CLICK" noise from the solenoid itself, telling you that it has engaged. If you hook the switch up wrong, you won't hear anything.

OK, just in case you are a stickler for authoritative based parts referencing, if you look on the front of your air horn, I'm going to guess that, since your car is 15 years old, that the number is going to be 3310-10 or maybe 3310-11. If you then go here http://documents.holley.com/techlibr...al_listing.pdf on the Holley Technical Resource page, you can see on that page that the correct Needle and Seat for those carbs is a #6-504 https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ts/parts/6-504 That's a .110 seat size.

You could indeed set the floats with the electric pump on, and you'd be close, but the float level is also dependent on the amount of pressure coming from the pump itself. What that means is that the float level will be a little different if you are running the electric pump, which will have a slightly different pressure, than the mechanical pump. This is because the float has to push the N/S up "harder" to seal off a greater pressure, so the float itself will sit a little lower in relation to the pool of gas that surrounds it. That is why you must set your floats based on what you're going to be driving with.

[steve meltzer]

This has been a great educational experience for me, so thanx again. And thanx also, for the definitive Holley reference for the n/s units. While I'm foolin' with the solenoid, can you help me with this question....

I'm using an MSD 8981 timing control unit. (I don't think it's being made any longer) and it has a violet wire that retards the timing a bit for easier starting. I have it wired to that middle, small terminal (that I've labeled "IK"), but is that correct or should it be on the "battery terminal", so labeled in my photo and is the large terminal that's to your left as you view the picture (car's right). Here's the link for the timing unit for your reading pleasure.

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...1/121-8981.pdf


THANX AGAIN. s

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

This has been a great educational experience for me, so thanx again. And thanx also, for the definitive Holley reference for the n/s units. While I'm foolin' with the solenoid, can you help me with this question....

I'm using an MSD 8981 timing control unit. (I don't think it's being made any longer) and it has a violet wire that retards the timing a bit for easier starting. I have it wired to that middle, small terminal (that I've labeled "IK"), but is that correct or should it be on the "battery terminal", so labeled in my photo and is the large terminal that's to your left as you view the picture (car's right). Here's the link for the timing unit for your reading pleasure.

http://www.jegs.com/InstallationInst...1/121-8981.pdf


THANX AGAIN. s

From the instructions:

Start Retard: This optional feature will retard the timing 20° during cranking to ease starting. It is activated when 12 volts is applied to the Violet wire and turns off (timing returns to the total timing) when the voltage is removed. Connect this wire to the wire that activates the starter solenoid. Note: The start timing retards 20° from the total timing.

You should connect the violet wire to the small connector on the front of your solenoid. That connector receives 12v+ so long as your fingers are on the ignition key turned fully to the "crank" position. As soon as you release the ignition key (because the engine has "caught"), no voltage flows to that terminal. You could, if you wanted, but you do not need to and you shouldn't, wire it in to the starter motor side of the solenoid (not the battery side, or you would always be 20 degrees retarded). The only conceivable reason you would ever do that would be if that little retarding circuit drew a God-awful amount of current to do its job (which it doesn't).

[steve meltzer]

Great, so I'm good so far. thanx again. more after i get the starter out and the n/s changed. s