Turkey Pan

[pusherfans]

I tried the vacuum leak test and it made no difference in the way the engine ran. Perhaps it's not a vacuum leak.

On a hunch, the next day, (today) with the engine stone cold, I decided to pull the plugs and check them out.

They all looked dark gray, except one was black (#8)(see picture below) and one was super clean white (#6). (see attached picture). I put it all back together and than decided to check the condictivity of each while. When I pulled the one that had the wire plug, the boot came off and the metal inside conductor stayed on the plug. wire 7 and 6 were both 1.9 Kohms) Maybe it was a bad crimp?

I plan on putting in new wires, new rotor, cap and plugs. I had the Keith Craft wires, does anyone know what type they are? I was thinking about going with Taylor, or MSD wires. Any suggestion on thickness, spiral, etc? (I have an MSD 6AL2, MSD billet distributor and coil)

thanks!

ps. do you think this could be a bad wire, or a valve train issue?

edit: updated pictures

[pusherfans]

other plugs....

[Rick Parker]

I think what you will find is that the TP (Which in a perfect world should be sealed to the underside of the hood) prevents radiated heat from being absorbed by the carburetor BUT forces ALL the Intake air to be pulled through the hood scoop. Now you say that your scoop isn't sealed to the TP, then you are pulling all the HEATED air from the top of the engine compartment into the carb. You spend thousands for the trickest heads, had them ported (more$$$), spent $800 for the latest and greatest Holley and then choke it down by forcing it to swallow nothing but hot air via a very poor path. The air/fuel ratio becomes out of wack (hot air) at a give throttle position. This is why it happens when you close the hood. Same thing happens with Webers, you're pulling the air of of the upper heated layer within the engine compartment.

[pusherfans]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

I think what you will find is that the TP (Which in a perfect world should be sealed to the underside of the hood) prevents radiated heat from being absorbed by the carburetor BUT forces ALL the Intake air to be pulled through the hood scoop. Now you say that your scoop isn't sealed to the TP, then you are pulling all the HEATED air from the top of the engine compartment into the carb. You spend thousands for the trickest heads, had them ported (more$$$), spent $800 for the latest and greatest Holley and then choke it down by forcing it to swallow nothing but hot air via a very poor path. The air/fuel ratio becomes out of wack (hot air) at a give throttle position. This is why it happens when you close the hood. Same thing happens with Webers, you're pulling the air of of the upper heated layer within the engine compartment.

you make an interesting point. So are you suggesting to pull the TP and put in a big air cleaner or to seal the TP to the hood?

The interesting point for me was that it was running great with the same air filter setup, but no TP. . . . and then suddenly this happened, so I am working on the ignition. Once that's done, if there is no improvement, I'll pull the TP and see how it runs and go from there. . . .

Thank you for your input, it does make a lot of sense!

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by pusherfans

... I'll pull the TP and see how it runs and go from there. . . .

I would just unbolt my hood and take it for a drive. That's a lot easier than taking your turkey pan off and then putting it back on again. If running without a hood doesn't change the performance one lick, then you need to look elsewhere....