07-10-2017, 06:56 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Southlake,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters
Posts: 134
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That kit will work but only after the recommended 28 days. You need to get the cut sheet for the proposed products. These cut sheets should explain the limits for how many lbs per square inch of moisture it can handle. The applicator should have a warranty mentioning this but a warranty doesn't mean squat when your having to empty your garage and they're grinding the coating off to start again. Not worth it.
Since this is a new pour you should wait at least 28 days for standard cure although this has to do with getting as much moisture out as possible although moisture can take years to release. 28 days typically refers to strength being around 75% cure so at this point a home builder can start framing. But we all know builders start about two weeks after pour, ha!
What you should also do is evaluate the drainage around the slab or building. Is there good slope away from the foundation and cleared gutters with proper downspouts routing the water away at least 6 feet.
Then there Prep for grinding and opening the concrete to allow the coating or coatings to grip the concrete. If your going with Epoxy and I can't talk you out of it, hopefully you didn't have them do a tight trowel, use indensifiers or sealers. You must open the concrete and DO NOT LET THEM USE MURIATIC ACID!
Where are they stopping the product application , inside the garage door or outside or in the middle of the garage door cross section. Think about that one. The most susceptible spot for delamination is at the transition of product and concrete. It gets chipped and water can seep under it etc.. What I do is with a concrete saw is cut a troth across the door section about 3/16 deept, mask with duct tape on the outside of troth and run the epoxy into the troth so less chance of chipping and position just inside or centered in the cross section but you will have to leave the door open a coupled of inches so......make sure they seal with plastic on the outside to prevent rain or bugs or dust from getting in because it WILL!
Then there's what kind of system, MMA, solid epoxy, water based epoxy, primer, type of top coat for chemical resistance, uv protection from yellowing because when garage is left open the sun will hit part of your garage floor and it will yellow over time. What is the temperature when applying as this can greatly affect the product and its curing. Oh and place huge attention to how they plan on applying and working out of the garage and clean up. I have seen this a gazillion times where they do an awesome job, but they leave drops of product on your driveway which isn't easy to remove or worse yet they don't use booty's and track all over your driveway.
And how many mils(measure used in paper) are they applying or how many coats? This is the depth of the coating. Thicker floor more durable and less chance at hot tire pick up where the petroleum and hot tires of your vehicle can discolor or worse adhere to the coating and when you back out rip up a section of the coating. And what is the profile of the floor, does it have some kind of nonslip protection. In my early years I did a floor for a guy's 6 million dollar house where I did a super thick floor with a super glass 3 layer top coat. He told me how he pulled into his garage with his just delivered $150k Eleanor Mustang in a snow storm and when he tried stopping with wet tires he kept going another 20 feet albeit at a snails pace and thankfully he had a huge garage otherwise he would have drove right into the living room. Holy crap!
.....which is why I wouldn't do it, but you probably will, lol!
Polished concrete, but again its three times the cost.
Oh and by the way that flecked floor to simulate granite, good luck in finding that nut you dropped when turning a wrench, which is why jet hanger floors are white.
Good luck!
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