Clip
 

YOU MIGHT WANT TO CHECK WITH McMASTER-CARR. THEY HAVE EVERY WEIRRD PIECE OF HARDWARE EVER CREATED.

Jack

Thanks! I'll get with him next week and measure it up. Let you know!
Larry

Here is a photo of both of the Cobra specific grease guns....

Grease guns
 

Mine is shaped like the one with the "crimped nose" - - - but it is the color of the bottom picture.

Blackjack

Both of these are unrestored originals.

Grease guns
 

My Grease Gun has no discernible pedigree. The guy I bought it from says that it came out of an original Cobra. (Read "Says").

My Farmer friend's story is far more credible as he could enumerate the other items in the "Accessory Kit" and he worked at the Ford Dealership from which the kit was acquired. (Read "Purloined", likely).

My grease gun is identical to his in every respect.

I asked him why he referred to the grease gun as a "grease plunger". He replied, "Not sure. That's what we all called them".

I'm going to 'practice' with the brush on some (any) loose, unprotected metal object. If I'm not completely happy with the results I have a Back-Up Plan. One of the CACC Cobra Club members knows a paint shop in Herndon, VA where one can take a can of liquid paint and they will pour the paint into a Spray Can and charge it with the required aerosol gas. He said the results he had were Perfect. Cost was about $20.00. That would be well worth it to get the best results.

Y'all have a really great day.

BLACKJACK

Nickel plating
 

On another subject: I took the five spanners and the pliers to a very highly regarded Plating Company in Maryland (recommended by Cobra drivers as well as Pantera drivers.

The pliers had a (Barely visible with a magnifying glass) stamping which read:

KING DICK
MADE IN ENGLAND

These remnants will surely disappear completely in the plating process. In discussing the mater with one of my engineers we decided:

Using the correct font, and type size #10 for the top lone and #8 for the bottom line, I was able to match the inscription exactly. I suggested printing it on one of the Laser Printers onto a clear plastic sheet and manufacturing a "decal". I was immediately overruled. (My engineers do that to me a LOT).

Carl's idea is to Scale the Letters, Reverse the Image, Print the reversed letters onto the clear plastic, Heat the Pliers then Press the reversed letters onto the pliers with a flat iron. Let it cool then remove the plastic. Option is to dress over the letters with a clear shellac when dry to protect them from scraping. Carl insists it will work just fine because its the same procedure we use when fabricating printed circuit boards. (We Do ???)

I'm really excited about this one. It won't be 100% authentic of course but at least the pliers will have the same "inscription", only printed instead of lightly (very lightly) stamped. I'm just not willing to "Pound" the shaped letters into the pliers and risk damaging them.

I'll let you know how (if) this works.

Y'all have a really great day.

BLACKJACK

Just got home and measured up the jack parts. The tube diameter is 1.125". The groove depth is .050, and width is .120.

I have glass beaded the jack, inspected it, heli-arced up some thread damage on the large shaft and have begun painting process. I'll send pictures to Larry to post. Here's the McMaster-Carr part #s for the proper roller bearing and thrust washers:

M-C Part # 5909K37 Cage Assembly for 1-1/8" shaft, 1 3/4" OD. Steel Thrust Needle Roller Bearing.

M-C Part # 5909K51 .032" Thick Washer for above.

You'll need qty 1 bearing, and qty 4 to 6 washers. You will need to recycle the thick washers on either side of the ball bearings to get the same stack height for proper gear mesh between the drive wheel and pinion. Measure the thickness of your current ball bearing assembly, and match the new assembly using the same count washers on either side of the roller bearing.

The only mod you will need to do is open up the bearing pocket in the drive wheel. It currently measures 1.700", and needs to be 1.755" to clear the new roller bearing. Easy step, my machine shop knocked it out in a day.
WELL worth the slight trouble, it now is turbine smooth in operation and has a higher load capability over the old ball bearings.

I found constant tension spring hose clamps at McMaster, that with a little mod will fit the groove in the large threaded shaft. I'll foreword the part # when it's confirmed for use.

A few photo's of Armrer's jack restoration. Beautiful work!

Old bearing were very worn! Note the wear in the race.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pspv3u49ov.jpg

New style needle thrust bearing being used.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psdassfadz.jpg

Slight machine work to fit the new style bearings.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psldrn459k.jpg

Heli-arced thread repair on the lift shaft.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pss2qddqzq.jpg

Staking 'Acton Customs' new jack saddle:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psqy49cvlt.jpg

Doming a washer for the new saddle:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psywlmhf8a.jpg

Domed washer in place for welding:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psiytwum9h.jpg

Final part assembly, ready for install:

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...psgx7c3cfm.jpg

Larry

Thanks for posting the pix Larry! Jack will be finished by Wednesday, I'll send final pix then. :)

Grease gun
 

RE: Post #146,

I decided to take the paint guys word at Home Dept. I used a $9.00, one inch Professional Grade brush. The results were outstanding. The Grease Gun body is still on the "drying shelf" but it looks great. My friend brought his "Grease Plunger" over, along with a six pack of Yuengling Lager (He evidently wants something). The paint match is PERFECT!!! The paint color is identical, the - barely perceptible - texture is exactly the same and the "hammer tone" finish is identical.

I'm really very happy with the results and highly recommend the formula from Home Depot.

Y'all have a really great day.

BLACKJACK

Great paint info Jack and great pics Larry.

Cheers
Greg

Total authenticity (?)
 

The guy with the "Grease Plunger" stopped by for coffee this morning. (Does this guy Ever work??). We went downstairs to my shop to recover my grease gun body from the drying shelf and give it a final inspection.

I was aghast!! The tears began to well up. THERE - on my otherwise perfect grease gun body was a (barely perceptible) paint "run" about 5/8" long. I invented several new 'swear words' as I frantically grabbed for the sand paper.

"STOP", shouted my friend - as he tore the sand paper from my grasp. "Look here", he demanded, thrusting his 'grease plunger' in front of my eyes. "Good Gawd", I uttered as my eyes focused on where his finger was pointed. There, for all the world to see, on his ORIGINAL Grease Plunger, were TWO small paint runs; one about 3/8" and a second about 3/4". They, like mine, were emanating from the 'crimped' end and running toward the base. They had previously gone completely unnoticed as a result of my exuberance.

Relief, like a gentle summer breeze, swept in and calmed all present.

A few quick wipes on the shaft with a polishing cloth, lubricating the inside of the body and we re-assembled my Grease Gun. It appears to be a "Brand New" item otherwise EXACTLY like my friends - - which he proclaims to be TOTALLY AUTHENTIC. And just who am I to challenge the wisdom and experience of a gentleman (at least my age) who at 10:00 AM is peering at my collection through a ten inch magnifying glass while working on his Second Glass of Bourbon from off of my Drying shelf.

The Grease Gun is now assembled. It looks great. I'm going to stand it up on my drying shelf for another 24 hours to fully cure the paint. Then, I'm going to place it in my display case WITH THE 5/8" PAINT RUN FACING "UP".

A story worth retelling.

Y'all have a really great day.

BLACKJACK

PS: Yes - - the paint is a PERFECT match with the Grease Plunger. Thank you Terry and Home Depot. It is indistinguishable form a professional spray paint job; not a brush stroke to be found - ONLY the "highly authentic" paint run.

I think we have the clip worked out Greg! Thanks for the offer though!
Larry

No problem Larry. Just paying forward all the help I've received here.

Cheers
Greg

OK, I know it's Friday.. but been a long week! I found this stainless 1 1/8" hose diameter spring clamp at McMaster-Carr (part # 5324K93) that easily modifies into a jack retaining clip. A Dremel with a cutoff wheel is all you need to trim the ends off. Wire diameter is 1/8", so it fits the shaft groove with just the right amount of tension. That wraps up a proper rebuild, and this jack works silky smooth!

Larry will post pics later, along with the (almost) final asembly pics.:)

Here's the pics of the retaining clip on the jack for reference.

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pshqunquvv.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pshhgkib3b.jpg

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...ps0gsadtgk.jpg

Almost complete!

http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...pspifcnwdd.jpg

Larry

Nice job Larry.
Cheers
Greg

screwdriver
 

Attachment 26465

My knock-off screwdriver. Has anybody had luck with making a BDS waterslide?