No alternator output?

[trularin]

Should you need it, in my gallery is the schematic of a ford. I think it is thunderbird. It shows the factory connections for that alternator.

One test I do is to get the car running and then pull the battery cable. If the car dies, the alternator is not working.

With the number of experts that are or will reply to this thread, I am sure you will fix this quickly.

Did you test the unit after the rebuild?

Tru

[FWB]

Originally Posted by trularin

Should you need it, in my gallery is the schematic of a ford. I think it is thunderbird. It shows the factory connections for that alternator.

One test I do is to get the car running and then pull the battery cable. If the car dies, the alternator is not working.

With the number of experts that are or will reply to this thread, I am sure you will fix this quickly.

Did you test the unit after the rebuild?

Tru

the pic i posted was from a 66 bird shop manual. the transistorized voltage regulator is a little different, but he posted non-transistor connections for his so......

using the idiot light with a ammeter is not something i have done so i'm not sure if when it lights is that an indication of a non-charging condition or not. A meter on it when running will surely be the way to go..

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by FWB

...using the idiot light with a ammeter is not something i have done so i'm not sure if when it lights is that an indication of a non-charging condition or not. A meter on it when running will surely be the way to go..

The light only comes on when you have a path to ground on the voltage regulator side of the light itself (meaning it's not working at all). The filament of the light is used to excite the regulator. Having an ammeter doesn't make a difference at all. It sounds complicated, but it's really not -- just see the thread in my post.

[Cobra #3170]

Originally Posted by trularin

Should you need it, in my gallery is the schematic of a ford. I think it is thunderbird. It shows the factory connections for that alternator.

One test I do is to get the car running and then pull the battery cable. If the car dies, the alternator is not working.

With the number of experts that are or will reply to this thread, I am sure you will fix this quickly.

Did you test the unit after the rebuild?

Tru

That is a risky test because pulling the battery out of the circuit can generate a voltage spike that can kill lights electronics etc. assuming it is charging.

A quick test for the alternator is to put a volt meter on the output terminal
with the engine running and the field disconnected, voltage should be 12.6 or so then jumper the field terminal briefly to 12v and watch the volt meter it should jump up if it does you have a wiring /regulator problem if it stays at 12v you have an alternator problem (warning do this quickly as it can overload the alternator).