changes to CR's blueprints

[Dominik]

good day,

Nick - you should have told me about this thread!! :-)

while I checked my chassis' rear yesterday I thought about listing changes I (you) did to the Cobra Restorers blueprints.

one comes to mind quickly:
the rear shock absorber (upper) mounts.
cut them flush with the crossmember so that the tire wheel insert sits nicely on the crossmember from shock mount left to tight.
Kirkham did it, so can we ;-)

the scuttle hoop does not seem to be right, I have to look into that.
you defenitely need to get this one right, otherwise you battle with the door hinge mounts, steering mount, support braces to the front pedestals, windshield brackets ...

dominik

[mickmate]

Tell you about this thread and have you double the number of posts! I don't have enough fab time now with all this good reading info it's even less. Anyhoo I knew you'd find it. Did you see our original post with 5.5K views? Yahoo!

[Specialk]

Dominik,

What doesn't look right on the scuttle hoop? Looks like a CAV 4000 to me!

[Dominik]

Hi Kris,

does look CAV... ;-)
I will not post pictures of the messy part...

I only got the better drawing after I made my own hoop - as always...

the CR drawing is off by one inch in height.
Mickmate got the real measurements fromme one day, I can't find them off hand now.

Dom

[mickmate]

I found that if you scale the drawing in the x-axis and compare to the known numbers its OK, if you compare the known numbers to scale measurements in the y-axis (up and down) they are proportionately off. I had to take some given numbers and apply a scale factor to get them right. As you know you have to be pretty comfortable with these numbers as it decides body height to chassis etc. Changes to CR blueprints, good heavens these are CAD drawings they MUST be accurate, even if they are missing a few subtle details like dimensions

[Three Peaks]

Yeah, I know now what you guys mean. I've had to "adjust" my frame in several places to make up for the differences. I think I have most of the corrections made, but I'm not done yet! - Bob

[Dominik]

Hi guys,

I am not saying that they are wrong, but some changes make sense, like a bolt-out transmission crossmember.

or even relocating the oil pan crossmember to make room for the sump to be chosen.

and, remember, the rear scuttle for fibre cars is not on the drawing.
the frame shown is for aluminium bodies, which Kris confirmed elsewhere in "our" forum.

front scuttle:
why is it not radiused all the way to support the body?

well,
#57 rear crossmember:
you want the holes for the tank straps in the bottom of this part, or in doubt top and bottom.

more when we weld additional chassis, it's amazing how fast one forgets..

dominik

[Specialk]

The front scuttle hoop should not contact the body. It would eventually spider web the contact area. The superstructure should hold the body off the scuttle hoop. On the fiberglass Shelby's it was probably about 1"

For a removable crossmember, I saw a 289 with 4 bolt flanges holding it in. This was the crossmember under the engine to allow removing the oil pan. It was simple to make and worked fine.

[Three Peaks]

SpecialK, are you talking about the Scuttle hoop fit on the new Shelby's or the originals?
I saw a new Shelby at the Historic Races, and I'm pretty sure they aren't fitted the same way the originals were. In fact ( I believe it was a 4000 series) the frame was quite different from my original style frame. The rear cross member followed closely to the body also, which is different from others I've seen.

[Dominik]

thanks Kris,

so the body sits on the 3/4" tubing birdcage all around?
and behind the seats?
not touching the rear scuttle?

I added forward braces from rear scuttle to the front one holding the body in the door sills (tubes are hidden when the body is on.)

this version of replica IS more time consuming...

dom

[Specialk]

Ideally, The body should rest on the 3/4" superstructure tubing and not touch either the front or rear scuttle hoop. Of course the rear scuttle hoop only exists on a Shelby, and not an original aluminum car.

I really like this scratch builders forum.

[Dominik]

Kris,

I like this forum too, but even more that guys like you are here to share hands-on information.

what did you place between the 3/4" tubes and the body?
weatherstrip?

is the spare wheel insert (trunk) fastened with screws to the trunk 3/4" rectangular birdcage?

is there a rubber liner on top of the spare wheel insert to the body?

Dom

[Specialk]

At Shelby, we didn't put anything between the 3/4" tubes and the body. We just riveted the body to the tubes.

If you are using the fiberglass trunk tray like the 4000 cars, it is shaped like the SC aluminum trunk. There should be piece of aluminum like in the photo below. That piece gets sandwiched between the body and the 3/4" square body support tube, with rivets going through the body, aluminum panel and 3/4" square tube. Then rivet the aluminum panel to the vertical flange on the trunk tray.

Shelby uses a piece of channel shaped rubber at between the tray and body. It should all fit tight and make a weathertight seal.

[Dominik]

Kris,

thanks.

I got the aluminium part. (hardly to be ssen in the pic)
"weathertight seal" is the headline!

I fact, I have more of this part then I have bodies. I sold some without it.
I like people to come back on their knees begging for mising parts and now I can charge them an arm and a leg after they hammered me down in price... ;-)

of course the trunk has to be sealed, even if it is only against exhaust or fuel fumes in case you don't drive in the rain.

quite a challenge in the area taillight, bumper mounts to that aluminium piece...
maybe call it a racing version and don't worry about the seals... ;-)

I can see the holes which were already drilled in the side of my trunk/body to fasten the body to the birdcage.
the more accurate the birdcage has to be - again...

dom