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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-23-2007, 09:00 PM
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Thank for the link Rick I will spend some time there.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2007, 04:32 PM
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Awhile back, somebody was pointing out that they were looking for longer tie rod ends to go with the Cobra/MG rack from Flaming river. These are as close to the original as you're going to get.
After fabbing everythng up and finding that the Mustang II tie rod ends worked, I also found out they were too short. So, a call to Flaming river and I found out that they make 3 lengths of Tie rod ends for the Flaming river Cobra/MG rack with the correct thread pattern- 9/16" x 18 TPI.
They come in 3 1/2" , 5" (FR 1630), and 6" (FR 1630L) .

Hope this helps somebody. How is everyone else's build going these days? Pretty quiet on the Scratch builder's forum lately.......

Bob
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2007, 06:19 PM
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Hi Bob, I think I have a 5" one off a strut type Mustang (is that a Fox body?) that looks like it will work well. Crawling ever closer to sitting on wheels. I have drive train almost in and a lot of front birdcage parts made. How u doin? It is way too quiet over here. If it wasn't for Patrick I think the scratch builders forum would be off the list!!
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2007, 06:48 PM
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Nick,
I tried the Mustang tie rod ends, but the thread pattern is different. The Mustang II tie rod ends are the correct thread pattern, but only come in a 3 1/2" length. So, a couple calls to Flaming river and finally got the correct part numbers. The 5" units I ordered (FR 1630) came in today and threaded right on the inner tie rods. They even come with jam nuts.

I have the birdcage finished, the hood and trunk hinges finished, the door hinges and hoops almost done, pedal box finished and all the brake parts ready for assembly. I need to pop the body off and finish up the welds that are just tacked in place now and then start on the aluminum pieces. Lots of little bits and pieces to do yet, but seeing some progress.

I need to buy a few more tools and a bunch of aluminum to get rolling on the tubs, etc... How did you get the templates for the pieces? Did you just use construction paper to make templates? I'm not looking forward to this part at all.
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Old 05-03-2007, 07:28 PM
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Hey Bob I'll be in touch on aluminum templates. I'm close to being ready for an aluminum piece or two myself. The sharpie and the plasma cutter are standing by!
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2007, 08:07 PM
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Sure appreciate the help. I think I owe you a template for my door hinges also. Once I know for sure that they work, I'll make up a pattern and ship it off to you.

Bob
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2007, 08:17 PM
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Hey, I'm not the only one still working on my car, great! I've got the standard MII rack but I had to shorten the arms 2" per side. I guess the MG/Cobra rack is much narrower. Right now I'm working on body mounting, doors, bonnet,and trunk stuff. So you guys will have to keep srcatch building on the list this stuff is realy slowgoing. Would realing like to see how you guys are doing your hinge work, and I'll steal what I can use. Patrick
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 05-03-2007, 09:31 PM
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Patrick,
What are you using for your hood and trunk hinges? I had to modify some of the Shell Valley hinges for the hood and may have to modify the trunk hinges also to get them to work properly.
Door hinges are a real PIA for sure. Took me at least 5 tries to get them to work, but I think I'm over the hump for now. Figuring out how to make the original style door latches work was no picnic either, but I think I whipped that one also.

I didn't use the standard Mustang II control arms, I built the lower arms and ordered adjustable arms for the uppers with the proper length threaded tubes. I think I got the measurements from ALex from a post quite some time ago. Worked like a charm.

Just one fun project after another. That is the reason we're trying to help each other out as much as we can- so we don't have to re-invent the wheel every step of the way. How can we help?

Bob
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 05-06-2007, 03:11 PM
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Hi Patrick
I havent heard from you in a while I take it you have been busy working on your car.I have just started on the jig for the chassis and since we last spoke I managed to buy a fiber glass mould for the body from a company that was closing down.will keep you posted.
Hilton
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2008, 05:37 PM
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back to the front suspension, this may be a stupid question, what is the "right side up" for gas coil overs? or is it user preference? I have a set of Bilstein that come with the FFR kit.
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-10-2008, 09:01 PM
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JOEY HV
My understanding is that "standard" mounting is with the shaft end up and the (threaded) body end down (to the lower control arm). However, some people mount them "upside down" in order to lower unsprung weight. So the answer is you can mount them either way...but it wouldn't hurt to confirm this with the mfg.
Hope this helps.
John
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 10-27-2018, 12:53 AM
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G'day

i would like to confirm dimensions of 427 front & rear suspension pivot points.
is there anybody who able to give some information ?

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Ozgur
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2018, 08:58 PM
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What numbers do you have, or what is it that you are looking for?

Mike
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 10-28-2018, 10:36 PM
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G'day,
Thank you for reply.
I've got chassis side dimensions. Let's start with front.
I'm looking for upright side dimensions
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https://www.ozgurtan.com/2018/10/ori...hassis-3d.html



Quote:
Originally Posted by krausewich View Post
What numbers do you have, or what is it that you are looking for?

Mike
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Last edited by Ozgur_Tan; 10-29-2018 at 09:11 AM..
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 10-29-2018, 10:19 PM
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Hi Ozgur,
I only have chassis, not suspension component measures.

Mike.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 05-24-2022, 06:51 PM
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I bought a pair of forged steel spindles from Shell Valley Cobra years ago and used them in my race car. The rack & pinion is a Flaming River. I'm happy with it.
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