blue prints

[63mercury]

where can I get the plans to build a frame? I have noticed that the 289 frame is smaller, I'd like to build the larger frame(4 in tube).

[mickmate]

Cobra restorers in Georgia sells a set of prints for the chassis only. They charge a little over $200. They are somewhat incomplete and inaccurate.

[63mercury]

Are there any of you scratch builders out there who would be willing to share what you have learned and the dimensions (length-width-front&rear)with me, I am willing to pay reasonably for something that is working rather than pay for what is wrong. Your help is appreciated. Inaccurate & incomplete is really not acceptable, and I think you all will agree. THANKS.

[spl310]

You may want to do a google search for coupechuck as he built a 289 and a daytona coupe. INCREDIBLE work...

[fasterpatrick]

Well incomplete plans what are we all start with, for my build I took rough dimensions off the body and plans and extrapilated my design from there. Others go for the originality route they are the true die hards they have to make lots of dimesion calculations and hope that point A will meet point B. There is at this time no cut and dry total set of prints. When "HAL" my shop computer gets over his virus I will send you a present. Patrick

[mickmate]

Chuck has lots of material on the 289's. Do you have a body or a body in mind. A lot of bodies have interior tubs which makes the frames a lot simpler. Check Patricks gallery and mine and think about which direction you want to head. I'm talking direction not speed here! The build section in the gallery is a good place to browse.

[63mercury]

Thanks guys, I would like the 427 style setup better than the 289, also chuck's was for the early style coupe with leaf springs which I really want to stay away from. I don't know yet weather I will go with round or square frame main rails, I like the hurricane setup but my budget and wife can't handle the initial outlay right now.I do have welding and fabrication skills and enjoy doing that so it would be a plus for me. I am leaning toward the independant rear setup like Patrick used, it looks like the main rails are straight which helps simplify things. I will try to pick up that Explorer cover for the rear mounts.

[troll]

what I find amazing about all this is ,now If you want an original type 289 slab or fia 3 inch frame with transverse leaf springs,you end up with a 427 4 inch frame and suspention.Or add $15,000.to back grade.That is Kirkhams.They are the only ones who even have it.Plus now you need to pay extra for manual gauges.And every part has a KK cut or printed in it.Now they are trying to suggest ABS. So it will turn to an option for manual brakes @ 20,000 If they do that ,air bags will be next.I did see they had no replys on the ABS thread..You people do great work,someone should coop this.Im a powdercoater,I would be willing to buy cut mark and ship the tubing.That is the easy stuff.Ive got a fair start 94 t bird posi 3.50 rearend toploader 4 speed trans,The last 351 4v clevland in this county all new and ready to start. And the big dream !!!!!!!.Only thing holding me back is the price of a kirkhams.If they had a good deal right now I could have it in my backyard in 4 hours.They are only 100 miles from me.And I think I could swing it.But not the $92,000 part.A mitibishi EVO would be nice to go out and out run all these cobras.
You guys include me in your surprises.I had many many things saved in my computer and It had a fatal stroke.So now all I have is a bunch of smarter guys then me to read about.Your humble servant!

[63mercury]

sounds like someone dosent understand the cobra or just wants to vent, that isn't what this thread was started for.

[elgecko]

Cobra Restorers have a somewhat complete set for the 427 frame.
Call me crazy but I would love to have "one" main blueprint of the original 427 frame to hang on the wall, without having to buy the whole set(Cobra Restorers).
I have digital wide format printers and digital high end cameras. Any ideas???
Dave

[Three Peaks]

I'm not aware of a complete, correct set of drawings of the 427 chassis. You may have to do what the rest of us have done, get the Cobra Restorers drawings and work from them and then ask questions where it isn't clear or something doesn't seem to fit.
If you can follow the Cobra Restorers drawings, you will be very close to a complete chassis with only minor adjustments. However, the suspension pieces aren't on the drawings.
You will have two choices on the suspension pieces once you get to that point- either go with the Kirkham/Shelby original style suspension pieces which will bolt right on (depending on the source, this could get expensive). Or, you could do what some of us have done and adapt a different suspension/driveline set up to the chassis. Alex, me, and a few others have gone to the Mustang II front spindles and built our own suspension pieces where necessary.
The rear creates slightly more of a challenge, but not completely out of your skill level with a little head scratching. I have adapted the excellent Ford 8.8 IRS to my original chassis and I think it will work well- though I don't have it on the road yet to test my confidence.

Most of the help you will need to get to your desired goal is right here on this forum. You just have to ask.

Bob

[RedEsprit]

Merc63,
Keep in mind that if you build an exact chassis from Cobra Restorer's drawings, it will be for an aluminum skin. You cannot expect any fiberglass body to fit. From the original drawings, you will really only use the main rails and suspension points. All of the upper tubular structure will give you an idea of how it should look but the exact dimensions from the drawings will be basically worthless. Best way to do this in my opinion (short of wheeling out an aluminum body) is to buy the body first, build the 90 inch wheel base main frame and then custom fit and form the upper frame tubes to support the body of your choice.

[63mercury]

The body fitting to the chassis something I over looked, that brings up another question,Which bodies are the better ones on the market? I want to stay at 90 in wheelbase, and from what I saw in his pictures fasterpatrick has an awsome chassis there, I don't know if I want the round tube or the square tube but the 3x4x.125 like ERA has, I'm still in the research mode.

[Three Peaks]

If you decide to go with the original style round tube frame with the superstructure that supports the body, the aluminum body isn't your only option. There are several sources that make the fiberglass bodies that fit the original style chassis.

[RedEsprit]

Fasterpatrick has done some impressive work and from what I've seen, his chassis is probably stouter than the original. He is definately an exception to the norm when it comes to fabricating ability.

I doubt that ERA will sell you just a body. You might look at something like an Everett Morrison...who would probably sell you one of theirs. No matter how you go, matching up the pieces is a lot of work and not as simple as it may seem. You might just consider one of the less expensive kits rather than cobbling up a "home made". Of course, you could go up to Ron Fournier's school and learn to wheel aluminum so you can make your own alloy body.

[63mercury]

What ever I do it will be in glass since I don't want the expense of the alum body, and I don't have a wheel nor do I know how to use it. I can do glass work pretty good as I have done a bit of it.The Hurricane boby sounds like a good one but I doubt if they would sell just the body. I'm hoping to make it to the show in Ohio the end of June, I'll inquire there, what's the worst they can say? NO!!!!!!!!!

[fasterpatrick]

Wow guys my heads swelling up again, you guys are too nice. They have it about right buy a body and start there. I called it working the fiberglass cave when fitting the body to the chassis. I could get you though the main rails to suspension. but after that it's all make it fit (or cause you fitts) portion of the build also be prepaired to buy a lot of parts up front so you can build around them, why do rework when parts don't fit do it right once. I can be helpfull and I'm allways around (at least when I get the shop coumputer back up and running) so come join the real car builders. Patrick

[63mercury]

Alright guys here goes, What body has the most rigid and best fitting doors,hoods,trunk out there? remember I want glass only. The only one I have personally seen is a 6 or7 year old CMS unit that is still under construction.
Bye the way guys, thanks for all the help, I just have a dream and a 63 Merc right now.
I appreciate all the advice.

[Three Peaks]

If you are going with a tubbed body like the Hurricane, ERA, etc.... you can get by with a substantially simpler chassis in 2x4 tubing. The body can be purchased several places but you may want to shop around to find one to your liking. There are a lot of variations in body styles, quality, and originality and some will be easier to work with and live with than others.

If you want to go with the "non-stressed" body- meaning it is only supported by the superstructure and isn't part of the structural frame, you can get them lots of places also. I believe Factory Five will sell just a body as well as some others. My body came from Roger Bollick from this forum and it is extremely well made and accurate to the originals.

Patrick is right, fitting the superstructure to the body can be a real head scratcher, but nothing you can't handle if you have some good fabricating skills. I bent most of my tubes with an electrical hand bender and a few other manual tools and it fits great.

Either way, let us know if we can help and we'll relate how we accomplished whatever task you need help with.

Bob

[troll]

well you let your head swell Patrick.If your head gets to big ,give me a call and I will open your garage door to let you out.I have watched and read your stuff from about the time (just before the big crash) there were photos in my computer from way back then.And boom all gone.You are the leader here.dont lose your cool.