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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2010, 10:59 AM
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Have your seats recovered by a local upholstery shop. The pleat pattern is simple to copy and the seats you have are better than what Shelby currently supplies. While you're at it, have the shop quote on doing the interior. A pro shop will likely do better than you will using Shelby's supplied interior kit.

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Originally Posted by snakehunter View Post
yeah, scary...that was one of the intake bolts that goes through the water passage. I think I'm switching to stainless or hardened ARP pieces.

Tranny and clutch coming out tomorrow, maybe the block too if it goes smoothly. (not looking forward to hanging that big lump over the aluminum nose!)

Waiting on quotes from Shelby for interior bits. There are no seat kits available, everything is made up and installed on the seats by a supplier. So its either buy two seats or have them copied locally.
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Old 02-07-2010, 02:43 PM
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Snakehunter:
I have the Shelby wiring diagrams that came with CSX 4250. If you need them, let me know.
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Old 02-16-2010, 08:55 AM
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Quote:
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Snakehunter:
I have the Shelby wiring diagrams that came with CSX 4250. If you need them, let me know.
I would love a wiring diagram, I was just going to call Shelby and ask for one believe it or not. I just marked and pulled back most of the harness, but I'm paranoid some of those little number stickers they put on will fall off when I clean it!
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:22 AM
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Default More pics...

The thrash continues, in between rounds of epic snowfall and shoveling, at least for cincinnati

The motor is now out and we've continued disassembly of the dash, firewall components and wiring.








The flasher relay instructs the user "DO NOT DROP". Curiously it doesn't mention anything about immersing in water...


Engine lifted out (we kept the car on the hoist and cherry picked the block from the side for easier access)




And a teaser of the transmission guts. Like new inside. It will get a new output seal, cover gasket and hydraulic TO bearing, as well as a clean and respray.



more to follow...
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Old 02-16-2010, 11:17 AM
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I'm gathering from these pics that you're now less inclined to protect the paint that's on there and are planning for a repaint once it's all torn down? First time I've seen someone doing engine work on an aluminum cobra and not one thick moving blanket is protecting the bodywork.

Also, I know you mentioned the cars in the background were others. But I'd like to hear the story on the Muira and especially the LP-400 (a very early "wingless" Countach). And is that early C3 'Vette on the lift a big block car?

Keep the progress pics coming.

-Dean

Last edited by RedBarchetta; 02-16-2010 at 09:05 PM..
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Old 02-16-2010, 11:25 AM
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The paint is due for a very intensive correction (polishing/leveling) from previous care and the water/dirt damage, but we're on the fence about a full repaint. Probably not at this time.

We try to protect the paint but I'm used to working around these cars, and the aluminum bodywork isn't soft in the sense that you'd think. Fenders are high crown and very stiff, for instance.

And honestly, the paintwork on these cars is not that stellar. Its nice driver or local show material, not concours stuff. So the pads, blankets and silk panties just get in the way for now.

If you want to know more about the other cars, feel free to PM me, i don't want to go too far OT.
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Old 02-16-2010, 12:08 PM
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snakehunter,

Quote:
several sections of the intake gaskets were tearing or separating
That snake was about to be bit by the Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal intake gasket failure demon. If you Google it you'll get thousands of hits.

The thing to watch is when you go back on with the intake, use a Victor Reinz reinforced gasket, or at least one of the newer Fel-Pro steel shim reinforced ones. Don't, under any circumstances use the Fel-Pro Print-O-Seal nonreinforced gaskets unless you like changing them and picking up the repairs they conspire to cause.

Have fun,

Tom
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Old 02-16-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kris-kincaid View Post
Have your seats recovered by a local upholstery shop. The pleat pattern is simple to copy and the seats you have are better than what Shelby currently supplies. While you're at it, have the shop quote on doing the interior. A pro shop will likely do better than you will using Shelby's supplied interior kit.
New seats are just under $1000 a pair, complete. We'd probably be looking at around $500-700 locally but time may be a factor. I have a supplier (not shelby) for a better grade of carpet, and the dash and rear wall, etc are covered in a readily available heavy vinyl. I'll add some additional sound deadening as well if it looks feasible.
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Old 02-16-2010, 10:04 AM
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Might want to call the Kirkhams up and see what they might be able to help out with in regards to the seats, carpet and other misc pieces since their cars are close to an original
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