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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 02-22-2021, 08:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_ford View Post
I havent torn it down but it looks like a rod broke. There's a window on the passenger side and a crack on the drivers side along the pan rail.
Do you mean that there is actually a "window" in the side of the block, created by a broken rod?
If so, surely that block is a write-off? Common sense (and cost) would suggest a new block would be the best option.

As an aside....remember back a few decades ago, when a Ferrari F1 car retired from a race, and the reason the Team gave for the retirement would be given as "perdita d'olio" (oil leak)?
Of course, had nothing to do with the rod poking through the hole in the block

Cheers,
Glen
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Last edited by xb-60; 02-22-2021 at 08:52 PM.. Reason: edit
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2021, 09:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xb-60 View Post
Do you mean that there is actually a "window" in the side of the block, created by a broken rod?
If so, surely that block is a write-off? Common sense (and cost) would suggest a new block would be the best option.

As an aside....remember back a few decades ago, when a Ferrari F1 car retired from a race, and the reason the Team gave for the retirement would be given as "perdita d'olio" (oil leak)?
Of course, had nothing to do with the rod poking through the hole in the block

Cheers,
Glen
I'm taking the engine to Survival Motorsports and in talking with Barry, he said the alloy blocks can be welded and be fine. He will tear it down and go from there.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2021, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by d_ford View Post
The engine in the car was the "born with" engine and the shelby alloy block was chosen specifically for the CSX part number which is a partial VIN match to the car. If it's possible to repair it, I want to. If it's so far damaged that it's unfeasable to repair and make it reliable I'll put a new short block in it. Barry R will let me know once he has it apart.
That's pretty cool !! Do you think the rod over heated ? Or was it just a weak link ?


Quote:
Originally Posted by xb-60 View Post
Do you mean that there is actually a "window" in the side of the block, created by a broken rod?
If so, surely that block is a write-off? Common sense (and cost) would suggest a new block would be the best option.

Glen
Yes, I think as long as there is no significant damage to main webbing, other vital parts of block, it can be fixed. It's the way to go.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2021, 12:15 PM
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when I got my CSX 6000 series car, the first thing I did was remove all the old rubber fuel lines and replace them with -6 nylon braided fuel lines from summit racing...I made an effort to keep them far away from heat sources like headers... I was told by David Kirkham to use the oil cooler as well... I only street the car...
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Old 02-23-2021, 03:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xb-60 View Post
As an aside....remember back a few decades ago, when a Ferrari F1 car retired from a race, and the reason the Team gave for the retirement would be given as "perdita d'olio" (oil leak)?
Of course, had nothing to do with the rod poking through the hole in the block

Cheers,
Glen
Sounds like an oil leak to me

Doug,
“Numbers matching” on a continuation is just for fun. It’s something to mention in an ad but couldnt put $1 on its value.
That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.
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Last edited by rodneym; 02-23-2021 at 03:32 PM..
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 02-23-2021, 04:06 PM
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Default Oil Cooler

I can attest to the oil cooler not being needed. I am in the middle of installing an Improved racing sandwich type thermostat to get the oil temp up. As far as the routing of the lines, that would depend on the type of remote you have. If it's a Canton, it's pretty simple. Canton has an in and out on both sides of the remote. Oil line out from the engine to the in on the canton. Out of the Canton to the cooler. Through the cooler and back to the engine. Be certain to identify the out line from the engine.

Fred
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2021, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FredG View Post
I can attest to the oil cooler not being needed. I am in the middle of installing an Improved racing sandwich type thermostat to get the oil temp up. As far as the routing of the lines, that would depend on the type of remote you have. If it's a Canton, it's pretty simple. Canton has an in and out on both sides of the remote. Oil line out from the engine to the in on the canton. Out of the Canton to the cooler. Through the cooler and back to the engine. Be certain to identify the out line from the engine.

Fred
which oil thermostat are you using?
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2021, 01:50 PM
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Default Oil Temp Thermostat

This sandwich type from Improved Racing. It appears to be very well made and it's rebuildable.

Fred




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Originally Posted by ERA 626 View Post
which oil thermostat are you using?
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2021, 06:15 PM
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Quote:
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This sandwich type from Improved Racing. It appears to be very well made and it's rebuildable.

Fred

how is this installed when using a remote oil filter mount? I would like to see an installed photo
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2021, 06:25 PM
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Improved Racing has a version that can be used with the remote filter. That is what I am putting on my ERA build.

John
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2021, 07:25 PM
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Default Installation.

I will take a picture of it tomorrow and post it. You unscrew the filter from the remote mount. This unit is screwed on where the filter was and the filter is screwed onto the thermostat. There are 2 oil lines to connect to and from the filter to the Cooler.

Fred

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how is this installed when using a remote oil filter mount? I would like to see an installed photo

Last edited by FredG; 02-25-2021 at 03:48 PM..
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2021, 08:40 PM
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I will take a picture of it tomorrow and post it. You unscrew the filter from the remote mount. This unit is screwed on where the filter was and the filter is screwed onto the thermostat. There are 2 oil lines to connect to and from the filter to the thermostat.

Fred
I assume you meant "There are 2 oil lines to connect to and from the filter to the oil cooler."


Instructions: https://www.improvedracing.com/manua...ction%20Manual
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 02-24-2021, 11:06 PM
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This is a remote oil filter mount with thermostat for use with an oil cooler.

Remote Engine & Transmission Oil Filter Mount with Thermostat
https://www.improvedracing.com/remot...t-env-170.html
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2021, 05:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERA 626 View Post
how is this installed when using a remote oil filter mount? I would like to see an installed photo
Here's an installation on a 289 that gives you a rough idea of the plumbing. You can see where the filter was originally mounted on the left front side of the block....

Name:  ERA2131_engine_1.jpg
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Cheers,
Glen
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2021, 03:49 PM
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Default Connection

Yes. thanks


Quote:
Originally Posted by cycleguy55 View Post
I assume you meant "There are 2 oil lines to connect to and from the filter to the oil cooler."


Instructions: https://www.improvedracing.com/manua...ction%20Manual
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 02-25-2021, 05:30 PM
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Default Oil Temp Thermostat Pics.

Here are the pics I promised. First pic is the original config of Canton Remote with oil lines. Second is new configuration of the oil lines to and from the engine. Oil thermostat is sandwiched in between the filter and the Canton. Third is taken from underneath showing the thermostat fittings facing forward that will connect to and from the cooler. I have to cut and make up the lines. Hope they are helpful.

Fred

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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 03-01-2021, 09:04 PM
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Thanks for the reference on improvedracing.com, I am also looking to install an oil thermostat. I am not sure what the pros/cons are, but with the sandwich type ENV-131 unit, the oil does not flow through the filter until after it has flowed through the oil cooler (when the thermostat allows it), while with the remote mount ENV-170 unit, the oil always goes through the filter first. Attached are the flow diagrams when the oil is hot enough to open the thermostat.
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