Mocal oil thermostat mounting

[Gunner]

Weather here is variable - summers tend to be long and hot (90-105) but the rest of the year is moderate to cool. We often have cool/cold weather with no rain, so winter driving is not the rarity it might be elsewhere.

In two long drives (25 minutes each way), driving moderately, the oil temp never got over 60. I might wait to see how things go when I drive longer trips, but it looks like for some good part of the season and for any trip that doesn't involve hard driving or high speeds, oil temp is going to be an issue.

I was also looking at the 200* unit, not the 180*.

My thinking is that if the Mocal is good enough for the Porsche guys...

[ERA Chas]

Originally Posted by Gunner

My thinking is that if the Mocal is good enough for the Porsche guys...

...you should be able to eat Porsche guys-especially with 446 CI. What makes you think they know things we Cobra guys don't? I only run the turbo guys and do with less displacement, so the Mocals ain't helping them with much of anything.

Gunner, the Mocals bleed too much oil as bypass to raise temps much. The Earls I had bled less and the quality was much, much better. Both Mocals required extensive deburring of the passages and the springs were crap. Fred's Canton seems effective.

I have seen some well made Mocal coolers but not t'stats.
I have an Earls and it's been faultless.

If you just want a project to dingle with something, have at it. But you'd be better off just capping the lines at the remote filter for the cooler weather and letting the oil stay in the block.

[Gunner]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

.the Mocals bleed too much oil as bypass to raise temps much. The Earls I had bled less and the quality was much, much better.

Noted, thanks. I'm not dead set on the Mocal but the Canton just has the wrong look for a '66 underhood. If I was that much into into billet and anodizing I'd have a new Bullitt instead.

I will probably experiment with bypassing the cooler first. I would just take it out and see if my oil temps ever got to something worryable, but for originality I'd rather keep the cooler in place and discreetly plumb in a valve or thermostat. If I do it just to dingle with things, It's all easily reversible and I'm only out a couple of hundred in fiddling money.

And I don't know what my problem with AN lines is. I've followed every rule and read every trick, and I just can't get the sononvaguns to go together right. I'll try some of the trick tools this time.

As for hose geometry, my eyeball assessment says I can do it with the right angled fittings. I wouldn't try to do it with straight hose ends and bending.

[fkemmerer]

Originally Posted by Gunner

Noted, thanks. I'm not dead set on the Mocal but the Canton just has the wrong look for a '66 underhood. If I was that much into into billet and anodizing I'd have a new Bullitt instead.

I will probably experiment with bypassing the cooler first. I would just take it out and see if my oil temps ever got to something worryable, but for originality I'd rather keep the cooler in place and discreetly plumb in a valve or thermostat. If I do it just to dingle with things, It's all easily reversible and I'm only out a couple of hundred in fiddling money.

And I don't know what my problem with AN lines is. I've followed every rule and read every trick, and I just can't get the sononvaguns to go together right. I'll try some of the trick tools this time.

As for hose geometry, my eyeball assessment says I can do it with the right angled fittings. I wouldn't try to do it with straight hose ends and bending.

Gunner,

Makes sense. If you do use a thermostat (either Mocal or Canton), consider mounting it down low behind the radiator. It will not be very conspicuous there.

On you problems with the AN lines, suggest you get a set of Kool Tools assembly aides and a hose cutter. These two tools helped my results a lot and sped things up considerably.

Just a suggestion if you decide to try bypassing your cooler - you'll need to do this inside the engine bay with a new line. I tired simply blocking my cooler with some cardboard before installing my thermostat and it did not make much difference. I think this was due to all of the side and line cooling surfaces on the cooler which were still exposed to cold air.

- Fred

[Bobcat]

Gunner .... FYI . I spent 30 years in the hydraulics industry and ran some tests with one of our customers on pressure drop on various fittings . A rough rule of thumb is a 90 degree fitting has a pressure drop equal to 10 feet of hose and a 45 degree has a drop equal to 20 feet of line ( based on 15 ft/sec oil flow ) . In other words , we tried everything we could to avoid 90 degree fittings . If you have to use one , use the ones with the gradual tube bends and not the abrupt machined ones .

[Gunner]

Originally Posted by fkemmerer

On you problems with the AN lines, suggest you get a set of Kool Tools assembly aides and a hose cutter. These two tools helped my results a lot and sped things up considerably.

I thought I'd make the investment in some of the helper tools. I have a whole truckload of lines to make for the Mustang and would prefer not to job out the task, nor waste any more line (6AN, fortunately) in larnin'.

Just a suggestion if you decide to try bypassing your cooler - you'll need to do this inside the engine bay with a new line.

Even easier, I can just reposition one of the cooler lines, remove the second one and cap off the cooler fittings. That might be a little messy but good enough to see how much effect the cooler has or doesn't have.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by Gunner

Even easier, I can just reposition one of the cooler lines, remove the second one and cap off the cooler fittings. That might be a little messy but good enough to see how much effect the cooler has or doesn't have.

An idea that may come in handy. In my emergency tool bag I keep a ready section of Aeroquip AN10 line with 90* male fittings, all pre-cut and assembled to fit the gap between the in/out fittings on the oil cooler. If I ever puncture the oil cooler out on the road, then it's simply splicing in the connector piece to the existing lines with a wrench. Beats calling AAA and asking for a flatbed tow home.

-Dean

[Ant]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

An idea that may come in handy. In my emergency tool bag I keep a ready section of Aeroquip AN10 line with 90* male fittings, all pre-cut and assembled to fit the gap between the in/out fittings on the oil cooler. If I ever puncture the oil cooler out on the road, then it's simply splicing in the connector piece to the existing lines with a wrench. Beats calling AAA and asking for a flatbed tow home.

-Dean

Thats idea is good, or have a male to male union adapter to join the lines together, and if running a T-stat have some caps...