Mocal oil thermostat mounting

[Gunner]

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

.the Mocals bleed too much oil as bypass to raise temps much. The Earls I had bled less and the quality was much, much better.

Noted, thanks. I'm not dead set on the Mocal but the Canton just has the wrong look for a '66 underhood. If I was that much into into billet and anodizing I'd have a new Bullitt instead.

I will probably experiment with bypassing the cooler first. I would just take it out and see if my oil temps ever got to something worryable, but for originality I'd rather keep the cooler in place and discreetly plumb in a valve or thermostat. If I do it just to dingle with things, It's all easily reversible and I'm only out a couple of hundred in fiddling money.

And I don't know what my problem with AN lines is. I've followed every rule and read every trick, and I just can't get the sononvaguns to go together right. I'll try some of the trick tools this time.

As for hose geometry, my eyeball assessment says I can do it with the right angled fittings. I wouldn't try to do it with straight hose ends and bending.

[fkemmerer]

Originally Posted by Gunner

Noted, thanks. I'm not dead set on the Mocal but the Canton just has the wrong look for a '66 underhood. If I was that much into into billet and anodizing I'd have a new Bullitt instead.

I will probably experiment with bypassing the cooler first. I would just take it out and see if my oil temps ever got to something worryable, but for originality I'd rather keep the cooler in place and discreetly plumb in a valve or thermostat. If I do it just to dingle with things, It's all easily reversible and I'm only out a couple of hundred in fiddling money.

And I don't know what my problem with AN lines is. I've followed every rule and read every trick, and I just can't get the sononvaguns to go together right. I'll try some of the trick tools this time.

As for hose geometry, my eyeball assessment says I can do it with the right angled fittings. I wouldn't try to do it with straight hose ends and bending.

Gunner,

Makes sense. If you do use a thermostat (either Mocal or Canton), consider mounting it down low behind the radiator. It will not be very conspicuous there.

On you problems with the AN lines, suggest you get a set of Kool Tools assembly aides and a hose cutter. These two tools helped my results a lot and sped things up considerably.

Just a suggestion if you decide to try bypassing your cooler - you'll need to do this inside the engine bay with a new line. I tired simply blocking my cooler with some cardboard before installing my thermostat and it did not make much difference. I think this was due to all of the side and line cooling surfaces on the cooler which were still exposed to cold air.

- Fred

[Bobcat]

Gunner .... FYI . I spent 30 years in the hydraulics industry and ran some tests with one of our customers on pressure drop on various fittings . A rough rule of thumb is a 90 degree fitting has a pressure drop equal to 10 feet of hose and a 45 degree has a drop equal to 20 feet of line ( based on 15 ft/sec oil flow ) . In other words , we tried everything we could to avoid 90 degree fittings . If you have to use one , use the ones with the gradual tube bends and not the abrupt machined ones .

[Gunner]

Originally Posted by fkemmerer

On you problems with the AN lines, suggest you get a set of Kool Tools assembly aides and a hose cutter. These two tools helped my results a lot and sped things up considerably.

I thought I'd make the investment in some of the helper tools. I have a whole truckload of lines to make for the Mustang and would prefer not to job out the task, nor waste any more line (6AN, fortunately) in larnin'.

Just a suggestion if you decide to try bypassing your cooler - you'll need to do this inside the engine bay with a new line.

Even easier, I can just reposition one of the cooler lines, remove the second one and cap off the cooler fittings. That might be a little messy but good enough to see how much effect the cooler has or doesn't have.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by Gunner

Even easier, I can just reposition one of the cooler lines, remove the second one and cap off the cooler fittings. That might be a little messy but good enough to see how much effect the cooler has or doesn't have.

An idea that may come in handy. In my emergency tool bag I keep a ready section of Aeroquip AN10 line with 90* male fittings, all pre-cut and assembled to fit the gap between the in/out fittings on the oil cooler. If I ever puncture the oil cooler out on the road, then it's simply splicing in the connector piece to the existing lines with a wrench. Beats calling AAA and asking for a flatbed tow home.

-Dean

[Ant]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

An idea that may come in handy. In my emergency tool bag I keep a ready section of Aeroquip AN10 line with 90* male fittings, all pre-cut and assembled to fit the gap between the in/out fittings on the oil cooler. If I ever puncture the oil cooler out on the road, then it's simply splicing in the connector piece to the existing lines with a wrench. Beats calling AAA and asking for a flatbed tow home.

-Dean

Thats idea is good, or have a male to male union adapter to join the lines together, and if running a T-stat have some caps...