Question on installing brake lines/fittings...

[RedBarchetta]

I bought some braided brake lines from Olthoff's (with the proper fittings for my SPF) a few millennia ago and will probably use the wet(ter) winter months to finally tackle this.

Any tricks that I need to know (i.e. do you use a teflon paste/tape for sealing to the caliper)? I've done brakes a gazillion times on cars but have never R&R'd a brake line.

Thanks for the advice,

-Dean

[blykins]

Nope, no sealer. The fittings in the calipers are usually flared or pipe thread. Braided hoses usually use AN fittings.

Just make sure the fittings are the correct size, pitch, flare, etc.

[Chaplain]

My calipers are Wilwoods and the calipers are tapped to 1/8-27 NPT. I used a 1/8-27 to -3AN male adapter. Then -3AN SS brakelines to the hardlines on the frame. For the 1/8 end into the caliper I used a little red Loctite. The adapters are cadmium plated steel the calipers are aluminum. I made the choice that a sealer was better than over tightening the pipe thread. I have no leaks.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by Chaplain

I made the choice that a sealer was better than over tightening the pipe thread. I have no leaks.

That's sort of where my mind is at, too. Just want to gather as many opinions on the subject, thanks.

-Dean

[Rick Parker]

Dean many use an adapter part of which is NPT on one end and AN-3 on the other, no sealer is used, mechanical seal entirely. On some calipers the attaching hole is a straight thread and uses a Banjo bolt with copper or aluminum crush washers on either side of the Banjo itself.

[RedBarchetta]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

Dean many use an adapter part of which is NPT on one end and AN-3 on the other, no sealer is used, mechanical seal entirely.

Rick, that may be what I have here. Adapter to the factory Wilwood calipers was provided. It's a straight fitting (i.e. no banjo...I'm familiar with how those work).

My thinking is if you use sealant for the pipe threads on a mechanical fuel pump, why wouldn't you do the same with a brake line that is also carrying a thin fluid that is under pressure?

-Dean

[Calbullet]

Dean make sure you use a good flare nut wrench. I used the flex head ones from Griot's. the fittings on the hard line are a bear to get to.

[RedBarchetta]

Cal, thanks for the heads-up. I might even hit all of them with a little shot of PB Blaster the night before just to loosen them up some.

[Calbullet]

Dean, another thing , on the rubber hoses to the calipers, the fitting were pretty tight on mine, I just cut the hose off at the fitting, and stuck a socket on them to take them out. didn't want to round off the fitting.

[RedBarchetta]

Yes, I thought about that, too. The old hoses aren't going back on, and it's not like someone else is game enough to install old brake lines (though I could be wrong on that one!).

[jwoodard]

Dean,

I installed the Olthoff braided lines on #1938, shortly after getting the car on the road in early 2005. I didn't use any sealer or tape and haven't had any issues since. I believe the experts advise against using sealer/tape, but for what reason I don't know. You might call Dennis and ask for his advise.

[Gunner]

Originally Posted by RedBarchetta

My thinking is if you use sealant for the pipe threads on a mechanical fuel pump, why wouldn't you do the same with a brake line that is also carrying a thin fluid that is under pressure?

Because sealant will make a joint more forgiving if there are tiny mechanical discrepancies... up to maybe 100 psi or so.

At the thousands of PSI in a brake system, you have it mechanically perfect or it's going to leak. You hope all it does is leak...