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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-18-2010, 04:43 PM
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Default Engine Builder Lubrication Guide (Interesting read)

With my engine getting ready to assemble, I found this site about a lubrication guide.

I hope that Keith and/or Barry, can log on and give some advise to break in my solid mechanical roller cam & roller lifters....... Is there a difference on what type of cam and lifter & why ?

Should I be using a break in oil and other products, on the engine dyno ?

What's the difference ?

What weight ? (start with a thin viscosity, then change the oil to a thicker viscosity for the high rpm run) ?

Although my cam is not a flat tappet, but a solid roller, should a zinc and phosphorus product be used anyway ? (especially on the break in)

The site below, is by Joe Gibbs. I'm not saying to use his products, just passing on the information, regardless of what company's site or selling product.

SITE INFO-

Anti-wear additives (Zinc and Moly) to create a sacrificial additive coating that prevents metal to metal contact in your engine.

Use a System of Compatible Products to Avoid Additive Clash.
Street oil vs. racing oil.

Since not all synthetic oils mix well with other synthetic oils, it is very important that you don't go
directly from one brand of synthetic oil to another brand synthetic oil without flushing the system
in between with a petroleum based oil.

While the reduction of zinc, phosphorus and sulfur in today’s motor oils is a significant change, there is more to the story. Specifically, the detergent additives used in modern oils have also changed. Here are some key facts about zinc and detergents and how they work.

ect.......

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...tionguide.html
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Kevin

Last edited by FUNFER2; 06-18-2010 at 04:55 PM..
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Old 06-18-2010, 05:16 PM
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You don't have to do the voodoo junk with a roller that you have to do with a flat tappet cam. I use a good quality oil with a little higher viscosity for break-in. With a roller cam, I just use Rotella or Valvoline oil. Usually a 15W-40 for a fresh fire.
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Old 06-19-2010, 01:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blykins View Post
You don't have to do the voodoo junk with a roller that you have to do with a flat tappet cam. I use a good quality oil with a little higher viscosity for break-in. With a roller cam, I just use Rotella or Valvoline oil. Usually a 15W-40 for a fresh fire.
Exactly right.
Roller cams are nowhere near as critical for break-in in comparison to a similar lift solid flat tappet camshaft.
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Old 06-19-2010, 03:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FUNFER2 View Post
With my engine getting ready to assemble, I found this site about a lubrication guide.

I hope that Keith and/or Barry, can log on and give some advise to break in my solid mechanical roller cam & roller lifters....... Is there a difference on what type of cam and lifter & why ?

Should I be using a break in oil and other products, on the engine dyno ?

What's the difference ?

What weight ? (start with a thin viscosity, then change the oil to a thicker viscosity for the high rpm run) ?

Although my cam is not a flat tappet, but a solid roller, should a zinc and phosphorus product be used anyway ? (especially on the break in)

The site below, is by Joe Gibbs. I'm not saying to use his products, just passing on the information, regardless of what company's site or selling product.

SITE INFO-

Anti-wear additives (Zinc and Moly) to create a sacrificial additive coating that prevents metal to metal contact in your engine.

Use a System of Compatible Products to Avoid Additive Clash.
Street oil vs. racing oil.

Since not all synthetic oils mix well with other synthetic oils, it is very important that you don't go
directly from one brand of synthetic oil to another brand synthetic oil without flushing the system
in between with a petroleum based oil.

While the reduction of zinc, phosphorus and sulfur in today’s motor oils is a significant change, there is more to the story. Specifically, the detergent additives used in modern oils have also changed. Here are some key facts about zinc and detergents and how they work.

ect.......

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/tra...tionguide.html
Some interesting info on the site Kevin. I liked the temperature vs. use informational. Causes me to want to re-think my viscosity?
Thanks for the link. BTW, I'm a hydraulic roller guy. No muss, no fuss, no break-in!
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