Is 75 amps enough?

[Rick Parker]

I've had a 42 amp alternator and used a group 55 Battery for 20+ years. 1 Spal fan, typical lighting, MSD, mechanical gauges, Tilton Mini Starter. NEVER had a problem. Knock on wood!

KISS!

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[RICK LAKE]

Rick Parker In the orginal car that all you needed. You still have enough charging system to add a low ampage fuel pump. Low wattage lights? Do you have a heater and blower fan? You will be close at idle. Watch the amp gauge and see where the needle sits at idle with all the power on. You could also have a 60amp alt in a 42 amp case. Rick L.

[RICK LAKE]

Excaliper Ernie my car spends 98% of the time on the track and autocross. It doesn't get the steady cruising that alot of other cars get. The other thing is that most guys running amp gauges in the car are running 42,60,65 even 70 amp output ALT's. This is the safety max limit for this -60-0-60+ amp gauge for a SW or even Autometer. I can't answer for Smith. The isolators on the ngauge will melt under high charging systems and cook the whole wiring harness because most cars have no fuses between the Alt and this gauge. I have seen a couple of cooked harness and the hours to repair them.
Ernie the 2 points I am trying to make are these, OVERBUILD your car for safety and abuse. Alot of people cut corners around this part of a build and some are lucky(not me) and others get bite in the AZZ. Xavier also has another post for tha same problem and the output wire is too small for the load and charging system. #10awg is not enought. #6 is min, #4awg is better, #2awg is perfect to handle all loads and not cook the ends. This is another reason to get rid of the amp gauge if the system is pushing 70amps total or more. Volt gauge is not period correct but sure better than burning up a dash. Just IMO reasons. Rick L.