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02-12-2012, 04:09 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 160
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Oil filter stuck
Hi Guys
Needs some advice. Doing my first oil change on my backdraft and the oil filter is stuck stuck, did I mention stuck. Used a filter wrench and now the oil filter is crushed like a soda can
Read about the screw driver method on another site but can't seem to get the screw driver through the entire filter, just half way
What else can I try?
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Art
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02-12-2012, 05:41 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Westerly,
RI
Cobra Make, Engine: Fordstroker 408w custom solid roller-Craft ported Brodix 17*heads-CFM ported Vic Jr. intake-1 3/4 primaries- 575hp-TKO-600RR Liberty upgrade- -Moser 8.8 trutrac-McLeod Street Extreme--QA-1-Wilwood brakes, Classic Chambered 3" Cobrapacks, Avon's
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I had an oil filter stuck stuck and crushed on a remote adapter. I used a chain wrench right around the rim edge. I was able to get the chain that close because of the adapter. The fuel pump may be in the way if it's on the block.
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Lou
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02-12-2012, 05:50 PM
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I just got a chain clamp and the fuel pump is in the way. can't get it against the base and the chain clamp just crushed the filter even more. Won't budge!
arrrrrrrrrgh!!
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Art
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02-12-2012, 06:01 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Cobra Make, Engine: Hi-Tech
Posts: 716
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Hi Art,
I had the same problem - my filter was crushed, twisted and leaking but would not come off - very frustrating. I picked up the KD3508 tool, put a plastic bag over the filter to stop any more leaking and believe me, the filter came off: Amazon.com: KD Tools (KD 3508) Adjustable Oil Filter Wrench Pliers: Home Improvement
Best of luck.
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02-12-2012, 06:11 PM
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Backdraft Racing Dealer
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Haven,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft Racing
Posts: 5,115
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I've used the chain clamps on the end of the filter. You turning it correct way?
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02-12-2012, 06:18 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Hi Jay
I hope so, counter clockwise from underneath right?
it's pretty much crushed at the top and middle now. When I try twisting the chain clamp the filter just collapses and does not turn
may need some out-of-the-box options
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Art
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02-12-2012, 06:36 PM
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Backdraft Racing Dealer
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Haven,
CT
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft Racing
Posts: 5,115
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Even collapsed I've still gripped them and gotten them to twist. Is your chain clamp running out of clamp? Is it too big for the now crushed filter?
Removing fuel pump for more clearance is an option, but I'm amazed this thing could be this tight?
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02-12-2012, 06:56 PM
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I'm stunned at how tight it is too
How easy is it to remove the fuel pump? If it wasn't in the way I think the chain clamp would do the trick
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Art
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02-12-2012, 07:00 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: seekonk,
ma
Cobra Make, Engine: factory five mkIII roadster 445 fe quick fuel 750 q series,irs
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i use to use a nylon strap wrench for filters like that, i believe it was from snap on. sometimes you can hammer a screwdriver into the filter and try turning it, who ever installed it did not lube the gasket.
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02-12-2012, 07:17 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado Springs,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, supercharged Coyote
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When they get really stuck, it's usually the big rubber gasket that's the problem. If you keep twisting on the can, it's probably going to tear, and then you're really hosed.
Get a thin narrow blase, like a putty knife or a gasket scraper. Try and work it in to loosen the rubber gasket seal. Be carefull. If you damage the mounting pad on the block it will never seal properly.
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02-12-2012, 08:00 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Carlsbad,
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Cobra Make, Engine: SPF 2932 with 438 Lykins Motorsports engine. Previous owner of FFR 5452.
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Remove the fuel pump if all else fails. Two bolts hold it on.
Try taking a hammer to the screwdriver and pierce the filter. If that doesn't break it free, remove the fuel pump for more clamp options.
To reinstall the fuel pump, replace the gasket, and you might have to buy a remote starter button to turn over the engine (disconnect the coil wire first so it doesn't start on you) you want to bump the engine just enough so that the internal cam that actuates the fuel pump arm is at its flattest point. Otherwise you will have a heck of s time reinstalling the pump while compressing the internal pump arm. Bumping the engine to the cam flat spot makes the installation simple.
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Jim
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02-12-2012, 08:05 PM
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Backdraft Racing Dealer
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Haven,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft Racing
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The filter was lubed. This is a first, though most customers leave it to a shop or us...
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02-12-2012, 08:09 PM
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Backdraft Racing Dealer
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Haven,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft Racing
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Art, the style I emailed should do it. You need it close to the block now and because of the angle of the filter it will have more clearance if you work from above.
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02-12-2012, 08:27 PM
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Backdraft Racing Dealer
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: North Haven,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft Racing
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Or the YouTube I sent ya with the screwdriver and pipe.
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02-12-2012, 08:35 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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Thanks Jay, saw your email and will look for the strap tool tomorrow and see if it works. There are two things working against me right now, 1) it seems whatever tool I use seems to just collapse the filter housing because it's crushed like a soda can & 2) there's very limited room to apply any force. The rigidity of the filter is compromised so when I apply torque the weakest areas just crumple without turning so if there was more room I may be able to push through. Hopefully this tool will get close enough to the block and lock in tight
All thoughts and suggestions are much appreciated right now !
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Art
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02-12-2012, 08:46 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Chester Springs,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine: Kirkham 289 FIA #690, FRPP 427 Boss engine
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I've always removed even the tightest ones from above with a strap wrench. Get as close to the mounting pad as possible and apply consistent pressure. That's the key. Even if it doesn't feel like it is turning keep applying pressure until the sweat drips! It should suddenly start to turn. And remember, righty tighty, lefty loosy!
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02-12-2012, 10:59 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
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Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
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From either above or below, use a long flatblade screwdriver, place it as close to the outer edge as possible hit it with a hammer to make it register in the seam/base and then tap or hit it several time in an attempt to break it loose. It WILL begin to turn. Just make sure the screwdriver has a good bite, stay right at the seam where the metal is thickest. It gets messy but will come loose.
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Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way
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02-13-2012, 01:46 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 160
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Hi Rick
Thanks for the tip. sounds like I should try using the screwdriver like a chisel along the seam and see if I can get it to rotate that way
will try it in the morning
very frustrated!
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Art
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02-13-2012, 05:29 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Southern Connecticut,
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Cobra Make, Engine: SPF - 351W, 944 non-turbo
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Two things -
Be sure you're turning it counter-clockwise
When installing only go 3/4 turn after gasket (oiled) contact, these guys get tighter with age
Bob
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02-13-2012, 07:14 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2011
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thanks for all the suggestions guys, keep them coming
I'm heading to a service station this morning to borrow some equipment (large long flat head screw driver, channel locks, strap wrench, atomic bomb)
I'm going to try the strap wrench first and then chiseling with a large screw driver. I've also read that in the worse case some folks have ripped the filter off exposing the base and then using a screw driver and hammer to loosen or sticking a pair of needle nose pliers in the holes in the base and turning from there. thoughts on that as a final option?
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Thanks
Art
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