What kind of oil is everyone running?

[Back in Black]

At least it's not as volatile an issue as small block vs big block, or (dare I even mention it!?) shelby and Kirkham cars vs the "fake" cobras (like mine)
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Ron61:

I have always thought that 30 wt was the standard oil used for engine break in...surprised that a builder would use 20-50 for break in, but it's interesting...personally I love multi-vis oils like Castrol/Quaker state, etc... OR the synthetic multi vis..


renaissance man said:
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currently Pennzoil 10W40. Going to switch at next change to Valvoline. My Stepfater who is a chemical engineer stated that it used to be (not sure if it's still true) that Pennzoil is "Parrafin" based and could cause the engine to gum over a period of years. Valvoline is (in his opinion) the purest production "standard" motor oil.
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........My dad used to tell me the same thing, back in the 1970s...suspect he was right, about the Pennzoil. I have seen some really gummy motors, covered in thick crusty varnish, and I always wondered. He also used Quaker state in all his (many) "collectors" cars (My mom did not appreciate his hobby, and preferred to call them "junk", although they included corvettes, corvairs, and just about any other type of car or truck or heavy equipment) Thing is, as to oils, I hear synthetics are a whole new ballgame...my decision on my regular "after break in" oil, at this point, is between a 50/50 mix of standard multi vis/synthetic, OR full 100% multi vis synthetic....synthetic is said to be the stuff, what the guys in the "know" are using..... I figure I will blend the synthetic, mabe use two quarts of 5-50, and then top off with 5-30 wt synthetic.
One other supposed advantage to the synthetics: Amsoil president just gave an interview, I think in Kit Car mag, where he claims synthetic oil does not need to be changed but every 10 to 15 thousand miles. He says even the 3,000 mile thing for standard oils, is a plan by US dealers to get you in for more service work = $
If I remember correctly, the filter should be changed on the regular schedule, according to him. Maybe less often for the full synthetic oils, as there is less wear = less wear particles to trap

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coyled said:
358ci , 660hp, valvoline synthetic 5-30wt. I was told by the builder that the most damage occurs on start up with a cold motor. Thats why the 5wt cold start multi grade oil. My oil temp never gets over 210 so I don't need 50wt. scott
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Makes sense, and I have always used a 10-40 oil, in recent years, when it was for hard work, or a hot (temp) motor, I always started the oil change with a few quarts of 20-50, for the hotter temps, then topped off with 10-40....but my experience with my tired 460 truck motor (Used 50% 5-50 synthetic Castrol) is causing me to strongly consider synthetic now, with a 5 wt as part of the mix
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dalola:

Thanks for finding that post /thread...I read it, but somehow I never bookmarked it. Great analysis of filters, backs up what my engine rebuilder told me (He rebuilt the 258 jeep six for my 1974 Scout 2, which is currently getting some beautification and mods in my garage)