351w stroker advice needed

[Jack21]

Andy,

This is the point I was at when I was doing my engine. The 372/377 was the popular stroker (there was no 393 yet) using an offset ground stock 351W crank, Mopar small block rods (6.125), and Chevy pistons. At the time, I had available $$$ to do the stroker or the roller cam, but not both. The roller won, hands down on Desktop Dyno, and that's what I built.

Have always tended to slightly overcam an engine, and always wind up kicking myself with a balky engine in the 1000 - 2000 RPM around town cruise range. A little technique I found to restore the bottom end was to install Rhoads variable duration lifters. (rhoadslifters.com) They machine a small channel in the lifter body to let the lifter bleed down slightly at low RPM. An engine running a set of these sounds like it has a solid lifter cam in it. The lifter reduces cam duration by around 6 - 10 deg at idle, and pumps back up to full duration at about 3000 RPM. Big block Pontiacs & Oldsmobiles with healthy cams responded well to these. Rhoads doesn't make their own roller lifters yet but will do the lifter modification for me. I'll send them a set and see how they work on the Windsor.

One of the things these sessions are showing is that the 393 stroker mod puts out the hp & tq, but they need slightly better breathing than the unstroked 351 or the top end goes away. Fortunately, the aftermarket has responded to this with better breathing heads. The bigger, 2.08/1.60 equipped TFS, AFR, Ede, heads are just the ticket.

The beauty of this is the extra cost of the motor is the replacement crank for about $500, depending on where you get it. Speedway Motors seems to have the best price to date, and offers the whole rotating kit for $1100. The stock 351 rods can be re-used if desired. KB now has a piston specific for this (KB#364).

Your engine A would make a hot street motor. Look at the torque curve. Nice and flat from 2000 - 5500, and doesn't dip under 450 fp all the way across. Try running it with the TFSR or AFR205/225 using the 2.08 intake valve. The cam is at the upper edge of the envelope for a street cam. Try a 224/234, and I would even use Rhoads modified lifters in this for better street manners.

Your engine B, you would hate on the street, but love on the track. Powerband is right where you want it. Be thinking forged crank, rods, pistons, 4 bolt main caps, and a valve train that will stay together at 6800.

For those of us following the sidepipe chronicles, and upgrading the sidepipe mufflers with a good set of glasspacks; run the simulation with mufflers, and again with open exhaust. Halfway in between should be the actual value.

With this kind of power available in a 351 sized envelope, and the weight of an iron head 302; why a big block?

The original question on this post was regarding Classic Roadsters 302/351 frame/motor mounts. Put one of these beasts in it, and you'll break them. Go see DV, or Don Scott for a set of the right 351W frame/motor mounts.