Can't get tie rod ends off

767Jockey · #1 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 08:37 PM

What's the trick to getting tie rod ends out of the spindles? I have a Jag based torsion bar front suspension. The tie rod ends are good, I need to disassemble the front end to replace the rubber bushings with polyurethane, and replace all the ball joints while I'm in there. I screwed the nut back on the bottom of the tie rod post to protect it and swatted it a few times from below, but the darned thing won't budge. Before I beat the heck out of it and damage it, I thought I'd drop a line on here to see if there's a trick to getting it out. I was thinking about using one of those fork separator type things, but I need to reuse these toe rod ends since they're fine, and the way the thing is mounted if I use that fork separator it will almost certainly tear the rubber boot. Any one have any ideas, or do I just beat the hell out of it till it pops out? I'd really rather not do that, but if that's the normal procedure, than so be it. Buy the way the ball joints are next, so if anyone has any ideas on that, fore away as well. I haven't tried to get them loose yet. That should be fun!

Jac Mac · #2 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 09:11 PM

Loosen the nut a couple of turns, then using a piece of 1"dia x 6" long bar as a punch smack the end of the steering arm end on towards the hub. Have a helper apply a little pressure upwards on the tie rod end with a pry bar while you do this. A couple of hits in this fashion with a 3lb hammer will usually free the tie rod end ( We are using the taper of the steering arm hole to squeeze the tie rod end out) Leaving the nut on save's the thread if you have a miss hit!

Jac Mac

Rick 427 Cobra · #3 (**permalink**) 02-25-2007, 11:29 PM

Do not strike the ball joint, nut or no nut. Strike the SIDE of the taper on the steering arm at the tie rod end smartly a couple of times till it pops out. A 24 oz hammer will get it out easily. If it is REALLY stubborn , strike 180' apart with 2 hammers at once. I have never had to do this in 30 years of pro wrenching however.

767Jockey · #4 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 12:05 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick 427 Cobra

Do not strike the ball joint, nut or no nut. Strike the SIDE of the taper on the steering arm at the tie rod end smartly a couple of times till it pops out. A 24 oz hammer will get it out easily. If it is REALLY stubborn , strike 180' apart with 2 hammers at once. I have never had to do this in 30 years of pro wrenching however.

I'll give it a shot - thanks.

DaveR · #5 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 07:11 AM

Can I use the same technique for A-arm ball joints?

767Jockey · #6 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rick 427 Cobra

Do not strike the ball joint, nut or no nut. Strike the SIDE of the taper on the steering arm at the tie rod end smartly a couple of times till it pops out. A 24 oz hammer will get it out easily. If it is REALLY stubborn , strike 180' apart with 2 hammers at once. I have never had to do this in 30 years of pro wrenching however.

I was hopeful, but no luck. I hit the side of the steering arm where the tie rod end attaches pretty hard, numerous times, and nothing. I hit it hard enough to actually make a few small dent marks in the steering arm. The tie rod end didn't budge. Should I try a penetrating oil or something? Is there a tool made that would help?

SACoupe · #7 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 07:24 AM

check out this link it explains the process in detail......
http://www.mustangsplus.com/tech/sho...shockfall1.htm

lovehamr · #8 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 09:47 AM

SACoupe, good explanation man.

767Jockey, I've used this same technique for years on Mustangs as well. I've also use forks but as you said, that's a great way to destroy the boot.

Steve

Excaliber · #9 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 10:06 AM

This is what pickle forks are really for, changing valve springs!

trularin · #10 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 11:33 AM

See if the autoparts store has a replacement rubber cup. If yes, use the pickle fork. That way you are not deforming the knuckle with a hammer blow.

Ernie, did you run out and take that shot?

Just my $0.02

Excaliber · #11 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 09:14 PM

It's been in my gallery for some time. Thats how I re-installed the inner valve springs after I broke in my flat tappet cam. By the way, instead of just running the typical 20 to 30 minutes for cam break in I actually put about a 100 miles on the car before I got around to re-installing the inner springs.

lineslinger · #12 (**permalink**) 02-26-2007, 11:16 PM

Don't take it off topic Ernie, save your valve pictures, they are very nice shots but they have nothing to do with the question at hand.

Jockey, I tried really hard not to tear up the boots while changing out my tie rod ends, you can do it but the rubber will take a beating, to the point of where you start to worry about the sealing capabilities. Sacrifice the boots and make sure the mechanicals are strong, grease and rubber are cheap, buy some new boots and enjoy the confidence of your new parts and work.

Rick 427 Cobra · #13 (**permalink**) 02-27-2007, 09:02 PM

Stick with it. Like the Mustangs Plus site sez, Get a BFH and whack it.

767Jockey · #14 (**permalink**) 02-27-2007, 09:41 PM

Well, looks like brute force is the key. I just got back home from a trip, I'll give it another try tomorrow. Thanks, guys.

767Jockey · #15 (**permalink**) 02-28-2007, 07:39 PM

WOW!
You can't believe how hard I had to hit this sucker to get this tie rod end to let go. I used a mini sledge, and had to wack it really hard about 8 times before it finally popped loose. Luckily, the ball joints let go much easier than that. Thanks for the info guys - without you I'd still be there trying to get it apart because I'd never imagine on my own that I'd have to hit this thing that hard.

Michael C Henry · #16 (**permalink**) 02-28-2007, 08:33 PM

I saw a trick on Two Guy's Garage . It actually worked the next time I had a chance to use it.. Two large bal -peen hammers. Lossen the nut a few turns ,strike the body holding the tie rod threaded end from two oposing directions simotaniously . It spit the tapered end out like magic. It didn't touch the rubber dust seal a bit. If a little pressure could be appied to the tapered end in the removal direction when striking would help. Iif the threaded end is down and the tapered end is suposed to go upwards, a bottle jack underneath appling some pressure couldn't hurt.

767Jockey · #17 (**permalink**) 02-28-2007, 08:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Michael C Henry

I saw a trick on Two Guy's Garage . It actually worked the next time I had a chance to use it.. Two large bal -peen hammers. Lossen the nut a few turns ,strike the body holding the tie rod threaded end from two oposing directions simotaniously . It spit the tapered end out like magic. It didn't touch the rubber dust seal a bit. If a little pressure could be appied to the tapered end in the removal direction when striking would help. Iif the threaded end is down and the tapered end is suposed to go upwards, a bottle jack underneath appling some pressure couldn't hurt.

Someone else had mentioned the two hammer method. Unfortunately it's so tight in there I could barely fit one hammer.