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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2002, 10:46 AM
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Wayne,

You can accomplish the same thing by just drilling your motor mounts for two 7/16" bolts right through the middle. Never again a broken engine mount, the rubber still gives vibration isolation and you can use nyloc nuts to adjust how much the engine is allowed to torque. It's a cheap and easy fix with stock parts and you will notice no more vibration that you did with the stock unmodified mounts...

Mike
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 09-17-2002, 10:55 AM
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I was wondering how long it would take someone to give up the old bolt-through-the-mounts trick.

Otherwise a strap is best, preferably one that has some give to it. If you go the turnbuckle route, make sure you're only adjusting it with the engine off on a flat surface(sorta like "do not use hairdryer in shower" instructions).
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2003, 12:37 PM
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Here is what I have done. I made an aluminium mount that is attached to the front of the left head, rod ends and an a rod connect it to the car's frame.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2003, 01:09 PM
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i put a strap on my engine to hold it down under a launch. Basically, ran a strap of steel almost horozontal bolted to two threaded holes on the front of my driver's cylinder head, then ran another strap pretty much straight down, to a chain link, one that has a locking ring, sort of like a climber's carabiner, got it a hardware shop, that goes thru a right angle steel bolted to the frame, there is just a tiny bit of give in it, but it allows my engine to vibrate at idle, but holds it down under acceleration. Cost me about $5.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 01-01-2003, 02:17 PM
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The file size of the picture was too big. I am going to try again.

Wayne
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 01-03-2003, 12:10 PM
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An update on mine. I had the front of the engine chained and switched to the double heim joint only to find out the motor was twisting the tranny mount (I am saving for that lightweight flywheel). Ended up with two heim jointed rods, one on each side of the bellhousing/block attachment, kind of like a mid plate. The chassis responds instantly to the throttle.

I didn't think this up, though. Davin Brigman from Brigfab Engineering did this while he was rebuilding the tranny.
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2003, 09:31 AM
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Default STRAP IT

LOOK AT A BUICK GNX REGAL. IT USES A SIMPLE, ADJUSTABLE AND HEAVY NYLON STRAP CONNECTING THE DRIVER SIDE, THIS WORKS NICELY AND CUSHIONS THE TORQUE TRANSFER TO THE FRAME BECAUSE THE NYLON STRETCHES SLIGHTLY THEN RETURNS UNLIKE THE CHAIN OR TURNBUCKLE.
I HAVE SEEN MANY OF THESE FACTORY MOUNTED STRAPS AND HAVE NOT HEARD OF A FAILURE.

B. SMITH
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 02-07-2003, 10:45 AM
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Like jwoodard said, Uses heim joint ends with LH threads on one and RH threads on the other.
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 02-08-2003, 05:18 PM
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Default Strap it (2)

KISS...

Do as the man mentioned about the Buick's. I've got a Grand National and a Cobra. Both use a simple Rachet strap. Its good for 800lbs you mount it on the drivers side (something strong) I used a empty bolt hole on the rear of the drivers side head. The strap went from there to the frame. Simply ratchet it as tight as it will go and then forget it. Every time I change the oil I check that the strap to see if it needs another "click". It never does. With the strap method you don't have a "mechanical" connection so no vibration gets from the motor to the frame and you...
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