ACCUSUMP question...

[crillyiv]

I have a 3qt Accusump with the electric solenoid valve. The unit is mounted on the crossmember in front of the engine. It was installed by the previous owner after he spun a main bearing on a big oval running slicks. He also had a restrictor installed in the block to keep more oil going to the mains and less to the heads.

The electric valve flowed plenty to possibly save my engine on at least one day at the track. Upon reviewing the video from my camera I could see the oil pressure dropping precipitously from about 70 psi to about 40 psi. It would hold there for the few seconds the car was at max lateral gs and then return to about 70 psi. To me this indicated the oil running away from the sump and the Accusump doing its job.

I have since changed the pan and the pump. I haven't seen any repeats of the oil running away from the pickup. My feeling is that I didn't want to depend on the Accusump to do what the pan and pump should be doing.

FWIW, the old pan was a Canton and the new one is an Aviad. Both road race models. I still use the Accusump for pre-oiling and leave it on(open) when I am driving. I turn it off (close the valve) while still driving (ie: not at idle) to save the oil at a higher psi.

[Aussie Mike]

Hi Craig,

What about making the manual valve cable operated? it shouldn't be too hard to make up a bracket to attach a cable to the valve. You could use one ove those heavey cables like they used to used for switching over the air intake on LPG conversions. That way you could put the accusump out of arms way (pun intended) and keep your hose lengths to a minimum.

Cheers

[Janusz]

I’m looking to install an Accusump to pre-lube before cold start-ups and then closing the valve off after the pressure increases and the unit has refilled.

For this initial lubrication is the 2 quart unit recommended or will the 1 quart unit work (according to Canton, the one quart unit actually holds around 1 ½ quarts)? Any advise would be appreciated.