SPF Parking Brake adjustments....

[RedBarchetta]

I did a search on this topic and didn't see anything that actually answered my question.

My SPF has the Wilwood brakes with the parking brake pads on the calipers. The parking brake, when fully engaged, will not hold the car on a slight incline (such as my driveway).

Before I start clipping safety wire and removing rear wheels, is there a set procedure that someone can walk me through for tightening the slack on the PB cable? Do I need to remove the wheels, or can this adjustment be done within the cockpit upon removal of the PB lever boot?

Thanks for the inputs and suggestions!

-Deano

[Goober]

Deano,
I just bought a new SPF and it also has the handbrake on the caliper. The newer ones have been converted to the drive shaft I think. Your SPF dealer should have the info. If not, Doug Reed in New Orleans (SPF dealer) can shed some light on the matter. I know they can change the older style to the newer ones.
Mark

[jhein]

Deano,

Those little Wilwood parking brakes are notoriously, uh... not so good. There are some modifications that you can make to the existing brake that will help a bit. I don't recall all the specifics but if you are an SCOF member (www.performanceunlimited.com/scof/). There is a tech library there with this and all sorts of other useful information.

SPF has upgraded this brake to a small disk brake that mounts on the differential yoke and you can purchase one from an SPF dealer. It's far better and I think that's the way to go if you can.

John
spf1421

[xlr8or]

You should be able to make adjustments under the car on the E-brake bracket toward the rearend. Simple matter of holding one tiny wrench on the cable and turning another tiny wrench on the adjuster.

[RedBarchetta]

Thanks, guys. I'll try the adjustments before I venture to the local SPF dealer and consider the driveshaft yoke upgrade. I honestly don't like the idea of having additional parasitic (sp?) weight revolving around and around on the drivetrain. I'm just trying to get them to grip on a 3-4% grade driveway, not Mt. Everest!

[sparks]

Its junk........ Just left mine in gear, never rolled away once.....

[G.R.]

Mine never worked worth a squat no matter how much it was adjusted--just left it in gear.

[Lowell W]

I replaced the cable-operated original brake with the newer brake which clamps a disc between the driveshaft and differential flanges. Parking the car in gear works fine, but I wanted an emergency brake and the original just wouldn't cut it. The original can be improved by replacing the return springs with stronger ones. If you look at the cables to the calipers, you'll notice they have a pretty sharp bend, which tends to pull them from their seats. The stronger springs help keep them seated, giving you less slack. If you swap the spring brackets left to right, you can pull the springs farther back. When you replace the wheels, check to be sure you have enough clearance between the bracket and the rim and bend as necessary. Works better, but not as well as the new brake for about $350.