HELP - Removing old pinion seal

HSSS427 · #1 (**permalink**) 12-01-2004, 12:37 PM

I'm replacing the pinion seal on ERA #414 and am having a devil of a time getting the old seal out. It seems to be glued in there. Tried going around the edge with a hammer and putty blade, but broke the putty blade hammering on it. Everything was going well till this. Any ideas on how to pry this thing loose without doing damaging anything important (like the pinion, sealing surface, fingers, etc)
Thanks!
Scott
Scott

Big-Foot · #2 (**permalink**) 12-01-2004, 01:38 PM

The sealing surface is on the pinion yoke - which you will have removed to gain access to the seal. They can be tough - I just typically pry them out with a large screw-driver. You won't hurt anything. The front bearing is back in there a ways - just be cognizant of its presense.

When you re-install the new seal make sure that you lubricate the sealing surface with a dab of grease. Then you will want to make sure that the splines are clean on the pinion shaft and that the yoke is also very clean. Put a little RTV on the splines of the yoke and re-install making sure that you install the yoke in the same location it was originally installed and that the nut is turned no tighter (mark it's location) than it was originally. That way you will get the proper preload on the pinion gears. If you have already removed the yoke / nut without marking them, you will need to sneak-up on the torque until you have removed all of the slack in the bearings, but have not excessively pre-loaded the bearings. There are some rules of thumb in regard to how many inch-pounds of torque it should take to rotate the pinion, but I have found very little consistency in these rules. I just take all the slack out of the bearings and use red loc-tite on the nut.

Morris · #3 (**permalink**) 12-01-2004, 08:03 PM

Scott

And old trick is to punch a small hole in the metal part of the seal and screw in a hammer driver and knock it out ....

You will have to do this on two sides and it should come right out...

Be sure to put the new one in square.... piece of PVC works sometimes...

Morris

Michael C Henry · #4 (**permalink**) 12-01-2004, 08:51 PM

Pick up any tool catalog or go to a parts store that rents or sell tools and look around you will more than likely see something that will fit your situation. I more than likely have something that would work but the drive over would be a drag.

HSSS427 · #5 (**permalink**) 12-02-2004, 07:33 AM

Actually Mike, my own personal Cannonball Run from Atlanta to Tacoma might be kind of fun.....for the first 6 hours or so ;-)

I talked to Doug at ERA and he said just knock it out with a chisel. I guess I was being too gentle and precise before. Got the thing back together and figured I'd drain the tranny while I had easy access to the fill plug from the interior.

Debating if I should give it a test drive with the tunnel off in case I have to go back and change something. However, am afraid I'll end up with grease and fluid slung all over the interior.

Any tips on what I should be looking / listening for in order to make sure all is right?

I did mark the nut, shaft, and flange and got the thing back to the proper position. Didn't test the torque as I only have a 1/4" drive inch pound torque wrench, but couldn't find a large socket for that drive to fit the nut. However, could move the flange about a half inch turn with my hand with a relatively stiff resistance. My bionic arm and SWAG powered brain indicated it was " jest 'bout rite."
Thanks!
Scott