Body to frame assembly

scales · #1 (**permalink**) 11-21-2004, 10:33 PM

Hi everyone.
I'm new to the Cobra kit world,although I have been reading this forum for a couple of years . I now have a need for some information.
I bought a RUCC kit ,which was ordered about ...a year or two ago.
I finally got the frame assembly and ordered the body last July. The body was to be done in 30 days...it's now going on 5 months.
When it's completed ,I'll have to get the body mounted on to the frame. RUCC said they will do it for me. $$$$. Which I hesitate to do. Because, I don't want to wait anymore!!
Sooooo...
Is this a project that my buddy and I can accomplish? If so, can anyone direct me to a source of measurments and directions? ( I never got a complete instruction manual.) Or..............
Direct me to a shop in the Tulsa , OK. area, that can preform the assembly for me.
I dread having RUCC do this for me . I want to finish my car!!!!!
I've already lost my body work / paint slot, so you can see my frustration.
Any information will be so grateful.
Thank You.

cobraleonard · #2 (**permalink**) 11-23-2004, 03:30 PM

I'm not familiar with RUCC, but from my experiences I don't think it is that difficult. You should at least get the assembly manual,but even if not ,just "square" the chassis with 4 same wheels and tires ( at least matched fronts and rears) and using straight edges, ruler , and "sighting" , you will get it right. I actually got this "tip" from Allen Paxton when he fitted my comp-wheels. He said he has had very angry call outs on wheel fitments on built cars only to find they measured everything not believing there are inconsistancies in some bodies and frames. Ironically, I believe the orginal cobras were not perfectly symetrical. Take your time , you can do it, and it will be alot of satisfaction to have "done it yourself". Good luck

blykins · #3 (**permalink**) 11-23-2004, 05:26 PM

What I did was mount the body, then take the wheels and tires off the car. Hang plum bobs from the center of the fenders so they fall down directly in front of the wheel hubs/rotors. If you don't have a plub bob, just use some string with some weights on the end. I think I just tied some sockets on the end of some regular string and did it.

Then just measure on each corner from the string to the wheel hub. Get the rears matching and the fronts matching and you got it.

Also, you can use the bumper holes to judge how straight you are....the holes in the frame should line up directly with the holes in the body.

scales · #4 (**permalink**) 11-23-2004, 08:01 PM

Thank You, Cobraleonard and Blykins !!!!

scales · #5 (**permalink**) 11-23-2004, 08:24 PM

Blykins,
I may be over thinking this but...
When you mounted your body to the frame did it require any shimming?
Was the cobra leveled when it was sitting on stands?
Thanks......

cobraleonard · #6 (**permalink**) 11-25-2004, 05:57 PM

It appears that you are "thinking thru" the process and that leveling the the frame is the correct way to approach this step. I didn't say before but assumed you have your drivetrain in? This would "weight" the frame and further help you to center the frame/body . I thought when I did mount my bodies, it was very helpful just to set back as far as I could and look to see the tire clearances. This will be one of your best guides and think of it this way , it will be the the way the car will ALWAYS be seen. One more thing, if you are using coilovers, make sure they are adjusted the same, allowing for tuning adjustment.

scratch · #7 (**permalink**) 12-19-2004, 06:34 PM

Scales,
Mounting the body is important, and you can do it, but you should go slow;

IN addition the the "left/right comments...here are a couple of important notes I didn't see in the thread:

-The rollbar positioning is CRITICAL before and after mounting.

-The butt of the body can be "up" or "down" can be effected by how you mount the rear on the chassis. By the way, moving the body around without support between the front and rear of the "cockpit" can break the bottom door jams. I used a board with stops.

-In addition to the four penetrations on bumpers, I would bond 6+ hard points around the wheel areas to hold the body to the frame. At the frame, use or make hot rod type brackets which have rubber on both sides.

-I mounted everything with rubber cushioners, to keep the FRP from taking too much stress.

scratch

Ibr8k4vetts · #8 (**permalink**) 12-19-2004, 08:27 PM

You will find this site of great help http://rawilson.net/cobra/index.html
Mike