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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 02-11-2005, 06:57 PM
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Default Timing tab

Where on this timing tab (sorry for the blurred image) should TDC be? I have tried the right edge but it runs like crap. Whats that boresight looking thing, and whats the notch?

Thanks.
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Old 02-11-2005, 07:04 PM
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Dave, that's the edge I would have tried too. Never seen one with a notch like that.
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Old 02-11-2005, 07:09 PM
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David, this one has me stumped. I may have to find #1 TDC somehow and make my own mark. Now, how do I find #1 TDC ?...this just never ends
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Old 02-11-2005, 07:14 PM
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For that very same reason,every time I build an engine,before I put the heads on,I put the timing chain cover on and the harmonic balancer,then bring # 1 piston to TDC and check my pointer or adjust it so it is on TDC,then I out line the pointer with a felt pen in case I have to take things apart..............saves a lot of guessing later on.............

David
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Old 02-11-2005, 07:59 PM
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Dave, the only sure-fire way I know is to get or make a piston stop thingie that screws into #1 spark plug hole. Install a degree wheel on the dampner with a pointer near where you think TDC is. Slowly and EASILY rotate the engine by hand until it stops. Write down your degree reading on the pointer. Now rotate the engine slowly and easy the opposite direction until it stops again. White down this reading. Halfway between these readings is your TDC. Repeat just to make sure. Mark your balancer and taming tab well so there is no question.
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Old 02-12-2005, 07:58 AM
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David, thanks, I knew this wasn't going to be easy...
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Old 02-12-2005, 08:23 AM
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Dave, I think you have a miss match between the pointer and the balancer.

Actually, you can put a pointer anywhere you like. That includes the bottom of the engine.

However, the pointer must be in place to setup the timing.

So, if you wish to use that pointer, you will need to place a rotation bolt stop in number 1 plug hole. Rotate to the right, mark the position with the pointer. rotate left and mark the position. Take the total distance and divide it by two and measure the distance in from either mark.

That is TDC. You can either force the ring to the proper location ( a very bad idea ) or you can tape the balancer.

The tape is based off the balancer diameter, although they are sold on a per engine basis. Any will work that matches your balancer diameter.

Tape it and then spray it with clear. Some paints will attack the tape.

I think I have a spare tape for a small block you can have if you wish.

Total time to do this fix is about an hour. I would suggest you take all of the plugs out when doing it.

You probably know all this and I am being redundant, but some may read this and help them.

If you need the tape, let me know.

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Old 02-12-2005, 08:29 AM
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Trularin, no I didn't know all that. I ordered one of the engine stop things that screws into the plug hole. If it comes up anywhere along that tab, I'll mark it somehow.

Thanks.
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Old 02-12-2005, 02:16 PM
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Just get a dial indicator with an extension from ENCO, insert into #1 and fine TDC within a thousand's, mark the harmonic and yor`ready to go.
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Old 02-13-2005, 05:12 PM
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Dave,
I just checked the picture you posted against my 418w.

It could have been a picture of my engine you posted.

The right edge of the timing tab says "TIME".That is where Keith Craft used to time mine and I have been too.

Is it possible that the dist. was installed off a tooth ? Or something else going on with the dist. ?
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Old 02-13-2005, 05:32 PM
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Fred, I'm going to use the piston stop tool and find out for sure. It wanted to idle at something like 25 degrees. Doesn't seem right.
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Old 02-19-2005, 07:01 AM
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Dave,
Did your piston stop tool come in and did you get the timing marks verified ?
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Old 02-19-2005, 07:56 AM
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Dave, PM me your address I'll send you a stop.

I run about 20 initial.
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Old 02-19-2005, 08:24 AM
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Why don't you just make a phone call to Drew at Keith Craft?
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Old 02-19-2005, 09:41 AM
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This may be a little late, but I made my own stop from an old spark plug and a 3/8 - 24 bolt. Cut the side electrode off and remove the porcelain and the center electrode. (Easier said than done) You'll need a vise, a big punch and a BFH for that operation. Then thread the hole with a 3/8-24 tap and Voila!! , your new piston stop TDC tool is ready to go. Cost? $.15 for the bolt.

Cowtown, it's the right edge. It's really hard to see with a timing light too as there is no contrast between the balancer and the pointer. Try putting a little white paint on the edge of the pointer then use a fine black Sharpie to mark off 0, 10, 15, 20 degrees or whatever you like on the balancer. To reduce confusion, if you're going to run 16 deg initial and 34 degrees total at say 3000RPM you may want to just make two marks. It'll be much easier now to see what's goin on. HTH
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Old 02-19-2005, 02:20 PM
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I HAVE THE EXACT SAME POINTER AND YES, IT IS THE LEADING EDGE (FLAT EDGE WITH MARKS ON IT). I HAD SAME PROBLEM BUT JUST HAD MY DISTRIBUTER OFF A TOOTH OR TWO. PULLED DISTRIBUTER OUT AND MOVED BACK A COUPLE OF TEETH AND IT WAS PERFECT.
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Old 02-19-2005, 08:21 PM
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Dave, I feel I should tell you, moving the distributor is not going to make the pointer line up with the balancer unless they are in time.

That is to say, if TDC on the pointer lines up with TDC on the balancer, then you should be able to time the engine.

I think you said you were having problems reading the timing not running the engine. This might be because the balancer and the pointer are NOT aligned with the engine. If you move the distributor, you WILL change the timing.

Please don't pull the distributor until you have verified TDC is 0 degrees on the balancer and the pointer is pointing to it.
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Old 02-20-2005, 12:16 PM
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Thanks guys. Enough answers here to get 'er done. Been out of town, just got home, will fix next weekend. Trularin, thanks, already bought one from Summit (dang)...
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Old 03-09-2005, 05:21 PM
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Dave,

What did you find out ???

Noticed on another thread you said it was running great.

Sidepipes sounding better to you ?
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Old 03-09-2005, 05:42 PM
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Hey Fred, I had forgetten about this. It turns out my damper, which I got from Summit, not KC, had 2 sets of timing marks, one on the front edge, one on the back. Using the piston stop tool verified that the back set (which are really hard to see) are dead nuts on to the right edge, just like everyone thought. So I made a big line at zero and used my dial in timing light.

I was a bit concerned about how loud it was at first, Your pipes aren't exactly "mufflers", but after driving it a 100 miles this weekend I wouldn't have it any other way. Pull up to an intersection, and everyones jaw drops.

You going to Austin?
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