knock off adaptor installation - Page 2

mickmate · #21 (**permalink**) 05-24-2005, 07:24 AM

Just wondered how you were making out with this? If your not getting anywhere give Bob a call. He is a great guy to deal with and will make it right.

Blas · #22 (**permalink**) 05-24-2005, 07:50 AM

FYI...
Trigo's use 60# not 80#....
I see no reason you can't do the same....

CobraV8 · #23 (**permalink**) 05-24-2005, 12:05 PM

I placed my order 2 weeks ago, yesterday I wrote an e-mail to Vintage Wheels about the order status. They replied that the nuts have been shipped out today, they're sorry for the delay and waiting for stock to be delivered.

Seems like this will take some more time...

CobraV8 · #24 (**permalink**) 05-30-2005, 12:19 PM

I'm still waiting for the lug nuts, however in the meantime I made a tool that allowed me to install the adaptors to the front rotors. I filed a 1/2" allen wrench until it would fit the lug nuts, then I cut the end of the wrench off and hammered it into a 12mm socket:

I torqued the nuts to 80 ft lbs in three steps and I used Loctite on the threads. This time it worked like it should.

However the nuts I ordered to replace the broken ones still didn't arrive, and even a new problem occured

The adaptors for the rear axle can't be installed because they interfere with the raised surface of the brake drums around the center opening. This keeps the adaptors from sitting flush on the drums:

Of course I want to replace the drums with disk brakes one day, but for the moment I want to keep it this way because the conversion will take me another 4 to 6 weeks and I finally want to drive the car.

So what can I do? Is it save to machine the adapters to fit the drums? This would mean to remove material in critical places.
Did Ford ever make drums with flat surfaces? The drums are 10" inner diameter and have the standart Ford bolt pattern (5 x 4.5").

Rick Parker · #25 (**permalink**) 05-30-2005, 02:57 PM

Yes you can remove some metl from the back of the adapters. Increase the ID of the back side just enough to clear the OD of the raised part on the drums. It will be ok. IF YOU ARE NOT USING ANTI SIEZE ON THE NUT CHAMFERS DO IT!

Why are the holes chamfered on the back side??? This would concentrate the torque applied by the drive axles through the studs into a sharp edge in each hole. By design it would seem to act like a "Knife" and attempt to shear the studs ???

Questionable design

Rick

mickmate · #26 (**permalink**) 05-30-2005, 08:31 PM

I think looking at the amount of material between the bolt circle and the drum flange hole you would be better taking the material off the drum. If you look at where it will be removed at the back of the adapter I wouldn't want to remove it from there. As you said yourself it is a critical place for strength of that adapter. The drums are cheaper and easier to replace and you will be sometime anyway.

G.R. · #27 (**permalink**) 05-30-2005, 10:55 PM

Use mickmates advice! Take the lip off the drum. RE: rear Ford drums with no lip some early to mid 80's Granadas and Monarchs had them on the 8 and 9 inch rear axles. I have a mid 80's Granada 9 inch with drums and the Trigo adapters fit flush. I have a disc break conversion kit but haven't yet installed it, other issues right now and I want to get the car drivable while the weather is nice like you do.

CobraV8 · #28 (**permalink**) 05-31-2005, 07:58 AM

Thanks for all the help! I'll try to machine the drums to fit the adaptors, maybe a small radius on the lip is all it takes.

G.R. do you know if there are any part numbers visible on the Granada drums? Using these drums would be the best solution.

Quote:

Originally posted by Rick Parker

Why are the holes chamfered on the back side???

No idea. The rear adaptors also don't fit the bolt pattern very well. You have to use a hammer to get them over the wheel studs. I tried them also on the front rotors where the front adaptors fit just right: same result.
And yes I did use the holes for the Ford bolt pattern, not the Chev

Rick Parker · #29 (**permalink**) 05-31-2005, 08:30 AM

The center hole registers the drum on the axle flange, the studs often are not "exactly" perpendicular to the axle flange surface and may not provide enough support to keep the drum concentric. If there is enough metal in the adapters, (measure the thickness of the material of the major diameter at the flange) you may be able to make a shallow 45 degree chamfer on the backside inside diameter of the adapter that will allow the adapter to be fully seated against the drum.
Mark the adapter with a black felt pen or blue machinist dye, install it with the nut and then remove and look for the "witness markings" on the adapter. From your photos it appears that the adapter "Inside Diameter" is clamping d marking very close to the OD of the raised diameter on the drum, you may only have to remove small amount of material from the adapters.

Rick

G.R. · #30 (**permalink**) 06-02-2005, 01:02 AM

My drums were already on the rearend and there were no part numbers on them from what I remember. I have the rearend number and year but not handy right now. I'd have to look it up in my book. But I'm thinking it was about a 84-85 9" Granda axle in my case. The axle was narrowed but nothing else was changed other than the brake linings.