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09-03-2007, 11:39 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Waterford,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,384
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what to look for in an Air compressor
Ok, currently I have a cheap 30 gal Kobalt compressor which does not keep up at all! I have painted a 65 chevelle in my garage with it... it was just very time consuming ad it was running the entire time! I'm buying a new house and with the cobra build on the distant horizon, I want to ask my wife for a nice new compressor for christmas! I've looked at some at sears, home depot, and lowes but I just don't really know what I'm looking for! I plan to get a 60 or 80gal! I don't need an extremely expensive one, I just want somehting that will keep up better! What do you guys recommend? What are the IMPORTANT specs to look for?
Some pics of the 65 taken about a week after final clear and 3 days before my daughter was born!
Josh
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 Bagram AF Afghanistan
Last edited by fsstnotch; 09-03-2007 at 11:51 PM..
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09-04-2007, 12:23 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Montgomery,
TX
Cobra Make, Engine: CR 427 S/C, 351W, 5 Sp & KMP142 - 427 SO, 4 Spd
Posts: 2,212
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Not Ranked
I don't know much about specs for air flow but I'm sure if you need one
that pushes a lot you will need 220v to run it - make sure you have that.
Worst case scenario is change the plug on one to fit your dryer outlet (if it is 220v electric and not gas). I have done this with arc welders with no problems.
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Flip
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09-04-2007, 12:41 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Waterford,
PA
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Ya, 220 is a must. I'm having a 220 outlet put in the garage for the welder as well.
__________________
 Bagram AF Afghanistan
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09-04-2007, 12:45 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Carmichael,
ca
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 279
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Get a compressor that does NOT have direct drive from the compressor to the motor. Get a belt drive one with as big a tank as you can afford and it will work much better. -John
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"What's behind me does not matter"
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09-04-2007, 01:05 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jul 2002
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 15,712
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I am SO tired of the noisy ones! Flip is right on, a belt drive low rpm compressor will not work better longer and generally make more cfm it will be quieter too!
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09-04-2007, 01:31 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: SE Wisconsin,
Wi
Cobra Make, Engine: Arntz/SBC/Jag
Posts: 1,033
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Not Ranked
If comparing two units consider the one with the higher CFM rating. Then if there are some that are similar, consider the one that runs the compressor at the lowest RPM (lower RPM, less wear).
If you are still considering multiple models get the one with cast iron cylinders as opposed to iron lined cylinder inserts.
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09-04-2007, 01:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Waterford,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,384
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__________________
 Bagram AF Afghanistan
Last edited by fsstnotch; 09-04-2007 at 04:50 AM..
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09-15-2007, 06:47 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oakham,
Ma
Cobra Make, Engine: Kirkham 592
Posts: 578
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Ask your wife for an HVLP turbine setup. I wouldn't get one from Harbor friegt either. The turbine setups are nice they don't use oil or make water so they don't need a filter. They also have systems with postive pressure ventilation for you so also no filters. They do the best paint jobs. As far as a compressor get an american made unit with an american made motor. Saylor Beal comes to mind probably b/c I have one. They are built extremely well. You want a cast iron pump and the ability to make 19 CFM at 90PSI. That way you can get a nice sandblast cabinet. Which is a whole different discussion. There really is a lot to a compressor purchase. I bought a small unit years ago 5hp with a 60 gallon tank and it was never big enough. My large unit now has it's own shed attached to the garage outside so I don't have to liten to it pump. Email me if you have other questions chenis5950@charter.net
chris
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09-15-2007, 08:00 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2007
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA 381, 427 Side Oiler
Posts: 21
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I purchased a Sears Professional Oil-less unit years ago. That kind of unit as you probably already know has a limited range of usefulness. I thought at the time I could make that unit work for all projects including light sandblasting. It worked to a point.
I then made the plunge into big boys toys and couldn't be happier and I don't regret the purchase for a minute. I am a hobbyist at best and still hardly use the thing, but when I do it is very satisfying. I went with a Quincy QT. American made and very beefy in the areas that are important. Pricey, yes, but you'll have it forever.
http://www.quincycompressor.com/reciprocating.html
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09-15-2007, 08:05 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: Shreveport,
LA
Cobra Make, Engine: CSX4083, NOS 427 SOHC, serial number 589. Dyno'd in 1967 at 629HP with single 4v 560 Holley. Now with 4 Webers.
Posts: 295
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I am very happy with this Sears Professional Series compressor, it is 2 stage, 175psi, and very quiet (said to be 40% quieter than normal), it is on sale now for $399:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...+%26+Inflators
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09-15-2007, 08:20 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Mar 2000
Location: St. Augustine,
FL
Cobra Make, Engine: E-M / Power Performance / 521 stroker / Holley HP EFI
Posts: 1,935
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fsstnotch,
I too started with a Sears. After a couple of years during which it was a lot better than no compressor I took my oldest son's advice and got this one:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/to...productID=4810
It's quiet.
Yes, it's pricey. Yes it's worth it!
Wish I'd done it the first time.
Tom
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09-15-2007, 08:24 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Nov 2002
Cobra Make, Engine: Midstates,SBF 357
Posts: 418
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Most air compressors are about the same.Depends on what you are doing with it?I have a cambell-hausfield 60 gal 5h.p. model. It keeps up with most all of my tools. If you are just using it for a hobby type shop you will be happy with one.It came from Menards on sell for $300.00 some years ago.If you are looking at running multi air tools at once, you should go for a two stage unit. Cost a bit more but may be worth it for you?
Last edited by sharpe 1; 09-15-2007 at 08:43 AM..
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09-15-2007, 08:51 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Senoia,
Ga.
Cobra Make, Engine: 427SO with big twin autolite inlines on custom intake, jag rear, top loader, wembeldon white, guardsmen blue stripes
Posts: 3,155
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Not Ranked
By accident I found a source for good air compressors, 'dry cleaners'.
The one I patronize has a drive thru that takes you behind the building, I noticed many times as I left they had three air compressors out back but only one was working, they were all heavy duty two stage cast iron w/60 gal+ tanks. One day I ask the owner what he would take for the two that were not in use, $300.00..I'll take em'... I delivered them to a local air compressor repair shop and made a deal, they keep one and repair the other,
done deal and I've had it for better than 6 years.
__________________
Perry
Remember!, there's a huge difference between a 'parts' changer, and a mechanic.
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09-15-2007, 09:27 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Glendale,
AZ.
Cobra Make, Engine: Cobray-C3, The 60's body lines on todays chassis technology
Posts: 2,302
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Not Ranked
A lot of great advice already given. In my view of a good home unit it would be belt driven as it allows repair of either down the road if needed. It would NOT be oil-less, get a cast iron 2 stage pump. It would be an upright for space and configuration reasons. It would be a 60 gallon at the minimum. It would be a 220 volt with HP able to deliver 15 CFM at 110 PSI.
It would be located outside the work area but covered from elements with just a roof or overhang maybe or enclosed but plenty of air flow. I used an old auto air cond. condenser mounted on output line then into a water trap then a ball valve to turn on/off for line repair if needed. The AC condenser cools air a ton to separate water before it gets into system, well most of the water anyway. I also used a out of date propane tank I got for 20 bucks as an extra holding tank (about 20 " diameter and 5 foot tall) I mounted it upside down so valve was at the bottom for drain reasons. This is my home unit but can run about anything a home builder would need. enjoy!!!!!!!!!
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09-15-2007, 10:58 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oakham,
Ma
Cobra Make, Engine: Kirkham 592
Posts: 578
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13.8 CFM delivered @ 100 PSI for high volume usage
Nice compressor but not enough for a blast cabinet. If you ever want a blast cabinet buy the right compressor. My elec bill is pretty cheap for my garage. The shop is separate from the house. I think the most it's been is $30/month
chris
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09-15-2007, 11:23 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Gilbert,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft #90, 351w,Tremec 3550, SB100 SOLD
Posts: 577
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fsstnotch,
If you plan on painting when you get home (make it soon, OK!) the main thing you want to look for is CFM capacity. Many of today's spray guns eat air like a demon, some using upwards of 20CFM. The test I ask my customers to do (yep, I sell spray equipment) is pull the trigger on their spray gun and see if their fully charged compressor will run for 2 minutes withour cycling on. If it will do this, then you probably have an adequate sized compressor. It is not about voltage, tank size or horsepower, but CFM. However, to get adequate CFM you will probably have to go to a bigger, higher horsepower compressor.
Check your spray gun too. It should give a CFM rating and you have to be above that capacity on your compressor. For instance if the gun is rated at 14 CFM, then your compressor should be no less than 15 or better yet higher.
Another thing to remember is to have a final filter set up on the air line before it gets into the spray gun. There are many models available, but try to get a 3 stage air drier if possible. It removes water, oil, oil mist, dirt, and finally humidity which is what kills paint jobs. The closer you get to clean dry air, the better your paint job will be.
Good luck and come home soon! Thanks for your service!
SkipB
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09-15-2007, 01:34 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Raytown,
mo
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR Coupe SOLD.Current 66 Mustang
Posts: 962
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Not Ranked
we run the craftsman twin stage an i keep it in my trailer all the time i just got sick of the compressor niose works good does the job,its not comparable to the larger industrial units and neither is the cost iv painted several cars but its a compromise if i was working on cars everyday and wanted multiple air tools running at the same time id pick a larger one...WB3
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09-16-2007, 01:44 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Oakham,
Ma
Cobra Make, Engine: Kirkham 592
Posts: 578
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CITATION 3 STAGE HVLP PAINT SPRAYER & RESPIRATOR -CIT-3
Price: $1,099.00
Weight: 54lbs
Description:
AIR TO BREATHE - AIR TO PAINT
This is what I'm talkig about, This is theway to paint. There are cheaper systems but the reason I got this was b/c of the fresh air system for the operator. It's worth a set of lungs and the newer paints are nasty a fliter wears out and only gets so much
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09-16-2007, 03:04 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Waterford,
PA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,384
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Not Ranked
Quote:
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Originally Posted by ng8264723
CITATION 3 STAGE HVLP PAINT SPRAYER & RESPIRATOR -CIT-3
Price: $1,099.00
Weight: 54lbs
Description:
AIR TO BREATHE - AIR TO PAINT
This is what I'm talkig about, This is theway to paint. There are cheaper systems but the reason I got this was b/c of the fresh air system for the operator. It's worth a set of lungs and the newer paints are nasty a fliter wears out and only gets so much
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Thanks for all the input guys. I DO plan to paint some with the compressor. I'm not totally sure the requirements of my gun right off hand but I'll check. I believe it is around 10-12cfm but not sure. Paint itsn't going to be it's main purpose. It's just for the garage use, air gun, grinder, rivet gun, etc. But like I said, it does have to be able to run my paint gun.
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