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Kirkham Motorsports

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Old 03-08-2008, 09:56 PM
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Another helpfull thing is to wire capacitors across your relay / switch contacts. Use a Ceramic disk or Mica capacitor of .1 uf value or higher.

The capacitor will absorb some of the initial arcing that occurs because of high in-rush current that inductive loads (solenoids, motors) produce. Light bulbs like your headlights also produce in-rush during heat up of the filiment but it's not as harsh as inductive loads.

To keep spikes off the electrical system you can also place a reverse polarity diode across the coil to absorb the inductive kick produced on de-energizing. Collapsing magnetic fields produce a reverse polarity spike. (this is how your ignition coil works) Any of you that have stereos may notice the "pops" when certain items are switched off.

With more electronic systems becoming common place even on vintage cars, the electrical system needs to have better filtering than just the battery. You'll find decoupling caps scattered throughout the electrical system of most modern cars to remove high frequency noise that can effect various electronic controls like anti-lock brakes, engine computer, suspention controls, ect.

A modern riding lawnmower has more electronics than the original Cobras had.
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Old 03-09-2008, 08:58 AM
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I hope you guys notice from my original post that I'm really a when it comes to electronics. Now I have to learn about diodes and capacitors? That drill bit is looking like the more attractive option

How about this?
I have a new Lucas 3 position headlamp switch, where position 1 is off, 2 circuit "a" only, and 3 is circuit "a" and "b" both on. I'd wire the fuel pump to 2, and the Accusump pressure switch to 3...

Seems simpler, I'd replace the fuel pump switch with this; same 5/8" hole.
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:03 AM
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Default It's your car Ray

Jcoop I am going to stop after this 1 thing. A light switch DOESN'T have to supply has much amps to the lights that it will to Fuel pumps and electric soleniods. If you have relays for both curcuits, the switch should be OK. If the switch goes bad and you are on the road, you loose the 2 curcuits. I run a switch plate under the dash for all accessories. I have 4. One for each fuel pump, 1 for the accusump oiler, and one for the disappearing into the night tail lights for now. I have covers on all the switches so I can't hit them by accident. Good luck. Rick L. Ps we are just trying to give you the correct way to install a curcuit and not melt a wiring harness. God knows that this wouldn't be any fun. It is neat to let the smoke out of a curcuit once in a while.
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:55 AM
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I know, I know...thanks Rick.

Valuable wisdom shared here. Thanks all.
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