Electrical problem don't understand? Need help!

jimw427 · #1 (**permalink**) 03-12-2008, 04:55 AM

OK here goes, had all of the electrical issues taken care of with no problems, only thing done recently was to change my one wire alternator wire to the battery side of the kill switch. Did this a couple of days ago, started it up to verify the kill switch killed it when it was running, worked good.

Now heres the issue that happened last night. Was charging up the battery to get it started and running again. Turned on kill switch, fan, accusump all worked fine, turned the ignition, heard a click/pop, everything was dead, nothing worked. The only think that made sense to me was the 30 amp circuit breaker in the fuse block for the ignition blew. This is one in the small steel box not the normal clear fuse, so I was not sure if it blew or not, jsut seemed to make sense. So I ran out to my local auto store got another on put it in, turned power back on checked fan, heater, wipers, all worked, great, problem solved. Turned ignition same thing. Ok, now I am thing something has shorted out somewhere, but have no idea why or where. Looked around trying to figure it out for a little while, could not find anything obvious. Went to try it again before I called it a night, and everything was working. I did not do or change anything. Put the old circuit breaker back it and guess what it worked as well. Worked the rest of the night, no idea what happened or why. Is there anything in the electrical system that might get hot, short out and reset over a short time by itself???? I am lost here, looking for ideas on why the whole electriacl system went down and came back?

Thanks......Jim

Ron61 · #2 (**permalink**) 03-12-2008, 05:05 AM

Jim,

Not sure what to tell you since it is working now, but if it happens again get a voltmeter and check your circuit breaker before going out and buying a new one. Then with the Kill Switch open, ( Battery Disconnected ), measure on both sides for any kind of solid ground. You could have moved a wire while working on it and it is just close enough to short once in a while. And it may never happen again but I would still watch it closely for a while. See how it acts after you have driven it long enough for everything to get good and hot and also watch your voltmeter to see that the alternator is charging the battery.

Ron

RICK LAKE · #3 (**permalink**) 03-12-2008, 05:24 AM

jimw427 Jim without seeing the wiring of the car this is hard. From what you said, with all the power on,you might have blown the fuse. There may be no short in the wiring. TOO many curcuits of large ampage on one wire. I hope that the accusump and fans have relays. Are you running an MSD system in your car? These draw alot of amps, and some times are not wired correctlly into the car. Just check your ground straps and connections too. Make sure everything is tight. I have not seen a curcuit breaker go bad yet, but too much ampage will blow them. Breaking down the curcuit is the best thing to do. Seperate fuses for any curcuit with a relay and a 20 amp or more spike load or steady load. Accusump with electric soleiniod, cooling fans, blower fans, headlights if over 55w/ 75w. Where did you mount this kill switch and what curcuit are you in? I hope it is the small single wire that works as the exciter to tell the Alt. to start charging. Photos would help of these of a wiring diagram. You could have everything OK and just a spike of ampage that blew the breaker. Rick L.

jimw427 · #4 (**permalink**) 03-12-2008, 09:10 AM

Thanks for the suggestions, I hoped, but did not really think someone would be able to say hey I know just wahat that is, but who knows. I know it is hard to really help with out being there, but you never know, this forum has done some pretty amazing trouble shooting for folks over the web. I plan to do some more checking tonight, the circuit breaker was not bad and I never found a blown fuse which really confuseded me more. I will explore tonight looking for any loose wires or one that might be making contact somewhere or got hit or rubbed to insulation off of and is now hitting something. Any other ideas keep them coming. Jim

vettestr · #5 (**permalink**) 03-12-2008, 10:29 AM

Jim,
Great info already given. It is very easy with the right amp meter to determine what the total load going into the (metal can) circuit breaker and thats what my money is on. The average volt/ohm meter will only handle 10 AMPS and you need a 30+ ability to check your load into the breaker. A simple test light will tell you if in the open or closed state when you loose power again. You can then check in series again all wires or circuits going to that breaker. If you see a large amp draw single wire you need to verify that does in fact need to be a fused or protected circuit. Like maybe your new 1 wire alt. install??

CHANMADD · #6 (**permalink**) 03-12-2008, 11:34 AM

Often this happens when the connection at the battery is not good. IE the cables. So it allows enough current to run all the stuff but as soon as you load the system it basically shorts.Could also be a bad ground cable connection either at the block or at the frame.You have more than one ground cable I hope??
John

jimw427 · #7 (**permalink**) 03-12-2008, 11:56 AM

Yes, I have the battery, and the engine ground to the frame. Just seems weired that I have had no issues previous to this. I will double check the connections to the kill switch to make sure they are tight, as well as my ground cables.

Thanks.....

Steve Gallegos · #8 (**permalink**) 03-23-2008, 05:16 PM

My BDK that has VDO gauges is giving me a big problem. The temp. gauge reads 20 to 22C higher than is detected with a temp gun. Also, when I turn on my lights the temp goes up another 5 to 10, turn them off and it goes back down. My oil gauge reads 2.5 to 3 BARS, but when the pressure is tested it reads 3.5 BARS. When the lights are turned on, it goes down to 2 to 2.5 BARS. Lights off Bars back up. I think I have a short somewhere, any suggestions?