Motorcraft FL-1hp pressure drop

[madmaxx]

The difference between the FL1A and FL-1HP is the HP has a burst pressure of 400 psig where the 1a is 200 psig. Who cares, steel is cheaper than potatos, my oil pump only goes to 70 psig when cold. The higher pressure rating is a ploy used by many filter manufactures to claim there product is better. The bypass is 9-11 psig on the 1A and 22 psig on the hp, once again who cares, my test show differential across filter is not even close to 11 psig. Filter media and surface area are the same on both.


All that being said the price difference is $11 so if you feel better skip a lunch and you paid for it, LOL. The problem with the HP is nobody stocks them, so you have to order and wait. Go to walmart and they will have about 15 1a's in stock.

I was impressed when I took the 1A apart, good bypass valve, I could not seperate the filter media at the seam, i think it was sewn and glued, metal caps, pliable anti drain back (not really applicable since my filter is mounted verticle).

Royal purple has answered my email, they have synthetic media. The caveat will be when the bypass opends (9-11psigd) on the rp and if it is a clean bypass (yes). It retails for the same price as the fl-1hp or $15.00. Once again they waste weight with a heavy case. Edited, see post further down.

[madmaxx]

As far as the Rpush filter they leave out the necessary detail, I qoute

"The new ROUSH Oil Filters hold twice the capacity of the leading brand, and offer a high-efficiency 99.2 percent contaminants capture rate thanks to the superior cellulose and synthetic blend material used in the filter material."

99.2 percent of what Micron rating????????????????? I assume 1000 micron when not told, LOL!!!

Once again burst pressure is meaningless, 5 times, who gives a sheet, nothing in the engine is capable of producing 1 times.

If it is any larger than the 1A it would not fit on my car. I have never seen and auto filter larger than the 1A.

No spec on the bypass valve.

I must stop now before I twist off.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

As far as the Rpush filter they leave out the necessary detail, I qoute

"The new ROUSH Oil Filters hold twice the capacity of the leading brand, and offer a high-efficiency 99.2 percent contaminants capture rate thanks to the superior cellulose and synthetic blend material used in the filter material."

99.2 percent of what Micron rating????????????????? I assume 1000 micron when not told, LOL!!!

Once again burst pressure is meaningless, 5 times, who gives a sheet, nothing in the engine is capable of producing 1 times.

If it is any larger than the 1A it would not fit on my car. I have never seen and auto filter larger than the 1A.

No spec on the bypass valve.

I must stop now before I twist off.

The Roush filter is the exact same dimensions as the FL1, so no problem there. It was free, so I decided to use it. I've got another spare HP, so I won't need to worry about another filter for a while.

[Bob In Ct]

Typically racing filters have a much higher micron rating. They provide more flow at the expense of less filtering. Currently I'm using a Moroso racing filter with a micron rating of 27. The Motorcraft FL-1A is probably about 11. I thought the HP was in the 50s.

Bob

[madmaxx]

Excellent question. The best I can find on the FL-1Hp and not from the Ford site is 28 microns which is higher than the 20 microns on the 1a. I surfed every ford website and never once did they specify a micron rating on the HP. All these companies supply half ass information. Looks like more pressure testing this weekend. I am going to swap out the FL-1hp and try the 1A, see what happens with the differentail pressure. I can digest 27 micron, but if it is in the 50's which I doubt we will ever know it is another useless filter.

I found another site which specified 97% efficiency for the 1HP but as the dumb fuks at royal purple did, the dumb fuks at ford racing did not specify a micron rating for the 1 hp. (royal purple is 97% at 20 micron, 99% at 25 micron)

Originally Posted by Bob In Ct

Typically racing filters have a much higher micron rating. They provide more flow at the expense of less filtering. Currently I'm using a Moroso racing filter with a micron rating of 27. The Motorcraft FL-1A is probably about 11. I thought the HP was in the 50s.

Bob

[Bob In Ct]

I got this info from the Wix web site www.wixfilters.com .

Their 51515 (FL-1A equivalent) had a by-pass of 8-11 pounds and a micron rating of 21. Their 51515R racing filter had a by-pass of 8-11 pounds and a micron rating of 61.

Bob

[madmaxx]

I agree with the Wix site but that does not mean the HP has 61 or should I say I sure hope the hell it doesnt since that is what I have been using. On a side note if you want use a filter with a larger micron rating then the FILTERMAG is the perfect solution. A coworker brought one into work, it was incredible strong. Their website indicated particles down to 2 micron!!!!!!!!! So, if you like the low dp across the filter, slap on a filter mag to get the ferrous materials.

I did speak with Royal Purple, they are working on my questions, they indicated 97% efficiency at 20 micron!! 50% at 5 micron. The big question is what the pressure drop will be because if you bypass you aint filtering.

IF the hp does have a 61 micron rating, that would explain my little dp across the filter. Who the heck would ever recommend that filter on a street motor????

[RodKnock]

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

Was in Wally World the other day getting oil and filter for my 05 Super Duty diesel truck....Guess what I found??????????

I always open the oil filter box and make sure it is the correct filter in the correct box before going to the checkout and what I found was the Fram filter and Ford Motorcraft filter for my truck looked exactly identical, so I turned them over and they both had the exact same numbers on the bottom and same markings on the top, only exception was the Ford filter had a Ford stamp on it and Fram had a Fram stamp on it!!!!!!!!!!!
Otherwise, the EXACT same filter with the EXACT same numbers/markings,including the same part numbers and same patent numbers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

About a $1.50 more for the Ford filter......

Now which filter is better?????????
They are the same exact filter!!!!!!!!!!!!! other than the Fram/Ford stamping and the box they were in, they ARE the same exact filter!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

David

[Calbullet]

David, the filter for your SuperDuty diesel is a cartridge type and not a screw on canister. two different animals altogether. original filter was designed by Mann. first couple of years, all 6.0 diesel were from the same place.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by Calbullet

David, the filter for your SuperDuty diesel is a cartridge type and not a screw on canister. two different animals altogether. original filter was designed by Mann. first couple of years, all 6.0 diesel were from the same place.

o-k, but does Ford manufacter their own filters, does AC Delco do it or do they have another manufacter make them for their use?????
I wonder how many companies Fram makes filters for?????

Same goes for oil, never seen a Ford or Red Line or Joe Gibbs oil refinery, they get one of the major oil companies to manufacter their oil for them, albiet to their specs......
A buddy of mine is a chemical engineer at an Exxonn refinery here in La., and he tells me the list is very,very long of the companies they make products for.......

While I'm not a poster boy for Fram and don't own their stock, I do use their filters...

Company car # 1, 250,000 miles, nothing but Shell Rotella T 15/40 oil and Fram filter since new...engine had never been touched, sold it to get a newer model....

Company car # 2, 431,610 miles till it was totaled in auto accident, nothing but Shell Rotella T 15/40 and Fram filter since new,engine had never been touched......

Comany car #3, as of today, 101,000 miles, Shell Rotella T 15/40, Fram filter...........
Same goes for my wifes car and daughters car.....

They work for me......

David

[Mark IV]

Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD

o-k, but does Ford manufacter their own filters, does AC Delco do it or do they have another manufacter make them for their use?????
I wonder how many companies Fram makes filters for?????

No, Ford does not maunufacture the filters themselves, they do however specify the design and materials of the filters. Many filters are manufactured by Champion Laboratories (NOT the spark plug "Champion") and Wix as well as some other suppliers. All are capable of making great stuff....or junk. Don't think for a minute that STP, Mobil or Roush have people in a room building oil filters, all those are contracted out to specification. No different than gasoline refining where one refinery turns out multiple brands with different additive packages as specified.

[dcdoug]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

I think the jury is still out on whether the FL1HP has too high of a micron rating, but I think a lot of us are very anxious to hear if it does!

[RodKnock]

OK guys. I'll be doing an oil change this Winter and........

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

Just stick with whatever your engine builder recommends. This is interesting, but in the long run a good sold name brand (except for maybe Fram) oil filter will be sufficient based on the frequency/miles that most Cobra owners change their oil.

I don't change the oil on my daily drivers (too much of a hassle). I've had two cars that I put 250K miles on that lived on the cheapest oil and no name filter that Jiffy Lube has. The factory recommendation for an oil change is 7,500 miles, the oil change places say 3,000 (waste of money). I say 5,000 miles...seems to work OK.

[zrayr]

Originally Posted by RodKnock

OK, so Fram and K&N suck, and now the micron rating of the FL1A HP is too high. What are we left with to use? Just the FL1A, Wix and Moroso?

has the Mobil 1 filter been eliminated from contention ?

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oil.../opinions.html


Z.

[YerDugliness]

Allow me to play the devil's advocate and get an education at the same time--why is the bypass issue so important? As I understand it, the bypass "opens" only when the filter media is clogged up....is there anyone on here who ever lets their Cobra accumilate enough miles between oil/filter changes that a clogged filter is an issue?

Can the bypass "open" due to excessive pressure, as in an extremely high pressure oil pump.....or does the bypass "open" only when the filter media will not pass adequate oil?

Sorta confused here....but find this thread incredibly interesting!

Cheers from Dugly !

[madmaxx]

1) No problem if bypass opens, IF IF IF IF, it is a CLEAN SIDE BYPASS!!!!! IF it is a dome side/dirty side, then it flushes the dirty side of the filter media into your engine!!!!!!! What could be worse. Next time you pick up an oil filter look straight down if you see a button it is dirty side. If you see a spring just below the threads where it mounts it is a clean side.

2) Bypass would usually open when engine is cold and you are pumping 500 cst oil and your oil pump rv is lifting. 10W30 at 100c is only 12 Cst!!!! Understand 10w oil is thicker at 70F then 30W oil is at 212F!!!! Even though you are led to beleive 10W30 is only 10W when cold is fine, 10W at 50F is like syrup. 30W at 212 F is like rubbing alchol.

3)If you have a high volume oil pump theoretically we are pumping more oil so the pressure drop would be greater. If it exceeds the bypass setting it will bypass.

4) If your filter plugs off it will bypass. I saw one article that it would only take 14 grams to plug off a filter. This might happen in an older engine if you switched from dianasour to synthetic and the synthetic started cleaning it.

Originally Posted by YerDugliness

Allow me to play the devil's advocate and get an education at the same time--why is the bypass issue so important? As I understand it, the bypass "opens" only when the filter media is clogged up....is there anyone on here who ever lets their Cobra accumilate enough miles between oil/filter changes that a clogged filter is an issue?

Can the bypass "open" due to excessive pressure, as in an extremely high pressure oil pump.....or does the bypass "open" only when the filter media will not pass adequate oil?

Sorta confused here....but find this thread incredibly interesting!

Cheers from Dugly !

[madmaxx]

I apologize for all the confusion. I am still trying to figure it out. I have actual test data with calibrated gauges. If the Ford FL-HP has a 27 micron rating or lower in my opinion it is the best filter. If it has a 60 micron rating it is a poor choice for a street engine. The differential pressure I registered across it was fantastic, I am guaranteed never to bypass and if for some strange reason it did it bypasses on the clean side of the filter!!!!

This link http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html has some dated material, on the motorcraft which he compares as a puralator he indicateds a dome side bypass or in other words dirty side, this is not true, I know for a fact it is a clean side.

I need to install a FL-1A filter and check the differential across it. If it is less than 10 psig after the engine is warm it is my filter of choice since the bypass opens at 11 psig. Even if it is more than 10 psig with engine cold I dont care, let it bypass, it is a CLEAN SIDE BYPASS. I also know the micron rating is 25.

If in fact any of us can find what the micron rating for the FL-1HP and it is less than 30 micron, another great choice.

As far as asking the engine builder, forget it, they know less than we all do at this point and to be honest if your engine is good shape anything will work.

I quit drinking got off on a tanget and now trying to get to the bottom of it.

[madmaxx]

I plan on testing the 1A on Friday. If it has the same pressure drop as the 1HP then we know the micron rating is close enough. I still have my gauges hooked up so all i need to is swap filters.

As far as the Mobil, I dont know why I never have looked at them. Royal Purple has caught my attention. I guess for $15.00 I can find out for sure if the royal purple has a big pressure drop.

anybody know how much a divorce cost, LOL!!!! See the problem is my wife or one of the kids has to hold the pressure gauges so I can see them as I rev the engine to get pressure readings at 1k, 2K, 3K rpm's.

I bet in the end, I find no filter with a greater than 8 psig pressure drop cold or hot.