Motorcraft FL-1hp pressure drop

[madmaxx]

I have been looking at oil filters. Many filters are practically useless (or I thought) because they have a dirty side bypass. In other words, the bypass is at the base of the oil filter and if the bypass opens (normally 9-11 psig differential across filter) it flushes the dirty side of the filter media into the engine. Ford Motorcraft on the other hand has a clean side bypass, it is fantastic design. I have no idea why all filters would not be designed this way.

I decided to determine the pressure drop across my new FL-1HP oil filter with Mobil 1 10W40. The FL-1HP ($14.99) bypass activates at 22 psig, as compared to 11 psig for the standard FL-1A ($3.79). Since I have a remote oil filter adapter with two extra ports it was rather simple. I just installed a gauge on each side, then swaped the gauges from side to side to ensure accuracy.

I was blown away to determine the pressure drop across the filter is under 3 psig once the oil hits 80C or higher. Even at start up with cold oil the differential was only 4 psig, outside temp 85F. The bottom line as long as you oil filter media does not get damaged, you are filtering 100% of you oil all the time!!!! In the end the regular FL-1A would suffice as would most oil filters since the bypass is unlikely to open at least above 85F ambient temperature.



Engine is a 351 with a Melling high volume oil pump.

[zrayr]

I would pay ( or trade cars for an afternoon) to hear what the results of that test would be with a Mobil 1 filter.


Z.

[Dwight]

I'm interested in how the other filter brands do.

I alway use a Motorcraft filter but it would be interesting to see what the others do.

MadMaxx, since you're set up to do the testing, why don't you buy a couple of filters and test them for us????

Dwight

[madmaxx]

What I have left out is the oil testing I also did. I used Mobil 1 15W50, 10W30 and 10W40. I flushed the system each time between oil changes. I disconnected the return line from the oil cooler at the block and pumped two quarts through to ensure no cross contamination. At 100C and 3000 rpm the 10w30 was 53 pisg, the 10w40 was 58 psig and 15w50 was 63 psig. It appears each jump in viscosity was good for 5 psig, what was bad though was the 15w50 took forever to warm up where the rv in the oil pump was not popping and it was 85F outside. I could not imagine what would happen in the winter. Above 3000 rpm the oil pressure flat lines. It appears the "sweet spot" for mine if you are believer in 10 psig for every 1000 rpm is the 10W40. All were synthetic so wide viscosity ranges are not a problem.


The funny thing with my filter testing is I was getting pressure 10 psig higher than my gauge. Tomorrow I am taking the two gauges I got to a shop which will check calibration. Absolute value did not matter much since I was not looking for actual values but relative pressure drop across the filters. If in fact they are accurate I am getting a 10 psig pressure drop from the remote filter housing to the engine. In otherwords through the hoses and oil cooler.

My wife refuses to allow me to cut open any more filters, have her hold any more gagues, or have me smell like gasoline all night, LOL. I gave up beer 7 weeks ago, lost 8lbs and only run 3 nights a week instead of 5, she says she was happier when I was drinking LOL. Once she recovers I would like to test a Royal Purple filter since they have the sythetic media. I also sent the an email request asking their flowrates, pressure drops etc. My guess is the pressure drop will be large.


If I had to do it again I would have splurged for the Mobil 1 0W40, best of both worlds, thin as 10W30 when cold but 40W when hot. I have to admit the valve train is quieter with the 40W after some pretty hard driving.


In my discussions with coworkers a guy told me about a filtermag, he brought it to work, holy sheet, I could barely pull it off the oil filter is stuck so strong. I dont see the advantage, but I also dont think it would hurt. I could see the advantage if the filter would bypass often but since the motorcraft doesnt it should catch any debris.

I did remove the oil pan the first time and it was as clean as a surgical instrument, so filters do a heck of a job or the engine is not experiencing any wear.

[Ant]

What about a Canton 25-106 - CM -45 REMOTE OIL FILTER -12 PORTS (25-106) with a 4-5/8" synthetic fiber element.
They claim filtering down to 8 microns and 45gpm.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

My wife refuses to allow me to cut open any more filters, have her hold any more gagues, or have me smell like gasoline all night, LOL. I gave up beer 7 weeks ago, lost 8lbs and only run 3 nights a week instead of 5, she says she was happier when I was drinking LOL. Once she recovers I would like to test a Royal Purple filter since they have the sythetic media.

madmaxx - Your garage floor must look like a BP disaster site. BTW - You've already blown any future cost savings on the FL1 vs. HP due to your investment in oil filters that have been sacrificed in the name of science.

[madmaxx]

I can take out the plug and screw the 1/2npt in and only loose about a teaspoon. On the other side where the temp sending unit is, I loose even less I did leave out the oil burns on my hands and the fact I caught a towl on fire when the 90F wind blew the towl onto my header. As my 5 year old is screaming I just kept telling her to hold the gauge where I could see it!!!!!!! It is when I saw the smoke I knew something else was going on

Originally Posted by Got the Bug

madmaxx - Your garage floor must look like a BP disaster site. BTW - You've already blown any future cost savings on the FL1 vs. HP due to your investment in oil filters that have been sacrificed in the name of science.

[YerDugliness]

Here's what I did--used a standard remote spin-on filter mount to "pre-filter" the oil, then plumbed in one of these Oberg "sandwich" type filters to the outlet of the spin-on filter, then out of the Oberg back into the flow stream.

They have different size screens, but the most common is 60 microns.

http://store.obergfilters.com/oil.html

In the end, I think it was overkill....it was a street car that never really saw over 5500 RPM. If I do it again, I think I'll deep-six the spin-on and just go with the Oberg. The Oberg model I used had a "tattle-tale" feature that I used to operate a little light on the gauge mount. If the light came on, that meant that the filter screen was plugged up and the "bypass" had become activated. I never saw the light....every time I changed the oil, I checked the screen, never once found any sort of debris on it. The spin-on filter was just a standard Fram.

Cheers from Dugly

[madmaxx]

Do yourself a favor and cut open a fram filter, paper ends, filter media glued together not sewn, and dirty side bypass, i dont know if there is a worst made filter on the market.

Originally Posted by YerDugliness

Here's what I did--used a standard remote spin-on filter mount to "pre-filter" the oil, then plumbed in one of these Oberg "sandwich" type filters to the outlet of the spin-on filter, then out of the Oberg back into the flow stream.

They have different size screens, but the most common is 60 microns.

http://store.obergfilters.com/oil.html

In the end, I think it was overkill....it was a street car that never really saw over 5500 RPM. If I do it again, I think I'll deep-six the spin-on and just go with the Oberg. The Oberg model I used had a "tattle-tale" feature that I used to operate a little light on the gauge mount. If the light came on, that meant that the filter screen was plugged up and the "bypass" had become activated. I never saw the light....every time I changed the oil, I checked the screen, never once found any sort of debris on it. The spin-on filter was just a standard Fram.

Cheers from Dugly

[SP01715]

Any info on K&N? I was using the FL1HP and switched to K&N because it is easier to get off using a socket instead of a filter wrench. I know K&N makes quality air filters, I wonder if their oil filters are as good?

[madmaxx]

I looked at the K&N, looked like a dirty side bypass. It was the replacement for the FL-1A. Dont know the K&N bypass setting. Once I saw dirty side bypass and Motorcraft was clean side, decision was made to avoid K&N.

Originally Posted by SP01715

Any info on K&N? I was using the FL1HP and switched to K&N because it is easier to get off using a socket instead of a filter wrench. I know K&N makes quality air filters, I wonder if their oil filters are as good?

[SP01715]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

I looked at the K&N, looked like a dirty side bypass. It was the replacement for the FL-1A. Dont know the K&N bypass setting. Once I saw dirty side bypass and Motorcraft was clean side, decision was made to avoid K&N.

Thanks.....

[YerDugliness]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Do yourself a favor and cut open a fram filter, paper ends, filter media glued together not sewn, and dirty side bypass, i dont know if there is a worst made filter on the market.

Right, Madmaxx...I only used it to filter out the "gross" contaminants in the oil stream, was VERY surprised that the downstream Oberg filter screen was always so clean! I fully expected it to be full of debris the Fram had allowed through the bypass or was unfiltered by the Fram media.

I don't use Fram filters any more, always get Wix filters for my "regular" cars, which have a very good reputation for build quality.

The Oberg is expensive, though....until you realize they are machined for mounting to a fenderwell so you don't need to buy a remote location mount. And....no need to ever buy another filter, the screen is designed to be easily backflushed and re-used. I even like the idea that you can get filter screens of different "micron" specifications.

One thing is true, though......Fram gets no more of my money!! I've used Fram products on many cars, almost all of which easily made 250,000 miles before they started to use any oil, but for my Cobra, no way, no how!

As for the issue at hand, though....I'd really like to know how much pressure drop occurs from the Oberg filter system. I've never seen any sort of information regarding that issue. Interesting......may email Oberg and see if they have any information about that.

[EDIT--email sent, I found this on their FAQ page:

"Will an Oberg Filter increase oil flow?
Yes, using Oberg Filters increases oil flow. Click the image to see an enlarged chart with specific oil pressure results. Compare these features and you will see why Oberg is setting the industry standard.

The chart shows that the Oberg Billet Filter has less pressure loss than disposable filters. That means you get higher oil pressure and more lubrication to your engine's vital parts. Better lubrication means longer life."

Sorry I couldn't get the chart to reproduce....here's a link:

http://obergfilters.com/faq.html#faq4

Dugly]


Cheers from Dugly

[YerDugliness]

Originally Posted by YerDugliness

As for the issue at hand, though....I'd really like to know how much pressure drop occurs from the Oberg filter system. I've never seen any sort of information regarding that issue. Interesting......may email Oberg and see if they have any information about that.
Cheers from Dugly

Oberg was quite quick with their response....while they did not define their product's pressure loss, here's what they had to say:

"Hello Doug,



First of all I would like to thank you for your interest in our filter. For many years Oberg filters have been used in not only the racing and performance industries, but also industrial, commercial, agricultural and even consumer markets. A few of the main reasons they are so popular are the obvious benefits of a remote mount filter, the removable, cleanable screen for diagnostics and the lifetime filter housing. A few lesser known benefits are the fact that because of the remote mount and innovative “finned” design the filter will actually aide in cooling your oil if you can mount it where it will get some air flow to it. There is also the matter of increased oil pressure. Because of the unique “Full Flow” design and surface area of the Oberg filter the volumes are greater than and less restrictive than that of a typical canister filter. These two innovations have allowed customers to gain 5-10 psi of oil pressure and anywhere from 5 to 15 degrees of oil cooling. With the bullet proof Billet Aluminum housing and German woven stainless steel screen, the Oberg filter could be the last filter you ever buy.

Thank you,

Tony Wolford

General Manager"

I guess I didn't realize there was greater surface area of the filtration material compared to the pleated paper filters.....the cooling effect is just icing on the cake.

They also make a "double screen" design....allows filters of two different sizes to be used simultaneously....sorta like I did with the Fram to filter out the larger contaminants and the Oberg to filter out the smaller, but all in one small package.

Add the "tattle-tale" feature, and there's no doubt, ever, whether your oil is getting filtered or not.

Cheers from Dugly

[madmaxx]

I had my $9.00 harbor freight gauges calibrated. I was blown away, they are within 1/2psig accuracy!!!! I also had the smith gauge calibrated, it is off 3 psig at 60 psig, so when the gauge reads 60 actual is 63 psig. What this is telling us is I have a 7 psig pressure drop across my oil cooler and associated plumbing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Melling sets up their oil pumps to relieve at 60psig, if you installed without increasing the factory setting the most oil pressure you would see on your dash with an oil cooler set up is 53 psig!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!.

In summary pressure drop across the FL-1HP is neglibible to the point you are guaranteed 100 filtration at any ambient temp above 50F.
If you run an oil cooler you need to jack up the rv setting on the oil pump to account for the pressure drop or you will not get the desired 10 psig per 1000 rpm's.

When my oil was cold I was getting reading of 75 psig at the filter and 67 psig at the gauge on the dash. So my oil pump rv is set at 75 psig.

For 99% oil coolers are a waste, it takes longer for the oil to warm, it requires higher discharge pressure from the oil pump. The only good thing is differential pressure testing across the oil filters. From now on I am sticking with the Motorcraft FL-1A from walmart at $3.85 instead of the $15.00 FL-1hp.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by madmaxx

From now on I am sticking with the Motorcraft FL-1A from walmart at $3.85 instead of the $15.00 FL-1hp.

Madmaxx,

I'm wondering if the Roush brand oil filter (not sure who manufactures it for them) is equivalent to the FL-1HP. I won a free one and used it for my last oil change.

http://store.roushperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=1215

Roush indicates that it fits the same application as an FL-1A, but I'm not sure how the specs compare.

My Roush shipped with an FL-1HP and they indicate that the HP or an equivalent be used.

[madmaxx]

YerDugliness,

I accessed their chart, funny it appears dead on with my results. A high volume Melling has the output of 4.0 gpm at 2K rpm, 8 at 4k RPM flat lines after 4K, now their chart did not specify viscosity or operating temp but I would guess 10W30 at 100C. As far pressure drop across filter, alot of nothing is nothing, hell we get more pressure drop across the oil cooler!!!!!!!! If we want to eliminate pressure drop loose the cooler, i block mine off in the winter.

I like the Oberg filter but IMHO there is no return on investment. The difference between 2 psig and 5 psig is irrelavant. I have so many other ineffeciencies with my car I could never reliaze the benefit. For example the tool adding weight in my trunk next to my amp etc.

[YerDugliness]

I'd like to add another factor here.....since we're talking about oil filters, I recently learned that with the higher percentage of synthetic blend and full synthetic oils on the shelves, recommendations for oil filters have changed, too. Apparently (or so I was told by a salesman at Advance Auto Parts) the synthetic/synthetic blend oils require a filter that is rated to remove a very high percentage of particles....in fact, he told me to just go to the filter rack and find one with "99.9%" noted on the box.

Has anyone else heard of this? I don't think he was trying to sell me a more expensive filter, as the one I ended up with cost even less than the competitor's brand I had at first. He just noticed I had synthetic blend oil in the basket and sent me back for a different oil filter (and, of course, the issue of dirty side vs clean side bypass wasn't even a consideration, it was for my daughter's box-stock Honda Civic and she's quite obsessive about changing her oil very frequently).

What do you gearheads know about this?

Cheers from Doug!!

[kitcarbp]

MADMAXX, Great thread, thanks for sharing your data. I also have the FL1 HP that was shipped with my Ford Racing crate engine but since I also will be mostly street, I will be using the Walmart sourced FL-1A.
The 400 psi burst pressure rating of the FL1 HP canister only helps the fatigue life of the can in pressure cycling. The thicker gauge steel used on the can shell gives a higher "burst rating". In racing, the peak pressures seen at the oil filter and the frequency of the the oil pressure cycling in the filter (30 psi to 70 psi cycling as an example) must be greater than street driven engines due to the wide swing in engine rpms in racing. So I imagine the FL1HP steel can design will out perform the standard FL1A can when tested on a pressure cycling rig to simulate the extreme oil pressures and rapid rise and fall of the pressures in the filter can in racing. There is probably an SAE test for burst testing oil filters. It could be marketing hype, I have no racing experience nor burst oil filter experience, perhaps those that race their engines can advise what they have learned. Even a clogged filter will allow the by-pass valve to kick in to prevent a burst filter which we all agree is a bad thing.


I too have no confirmed filter (micron rating) data direct from Ford (actually the Motorcraft filters are manufactued by Purulator and/or Champion Labs last I read. OEMs will often dual source and/or switch suppliers based on you guessed it, pricing!

Check out this study made by a enthusiast ith some good info, a great read for gear heads where FL1A type aftermarket filters are examined, perhaps youve seen it.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/index.html

[RodKnock]

This recent FE Forum thread re: Motorcraft FL1A oil filters may or may not be of interest:

http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182...ong+and+stupid