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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Varmit View Post
intake off. bolt wedged tight in the #5 intake valve
If you have aluminum heads,almost any damage can be repaired.......

David
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:13 PM
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Did the bolt hold the valve open and allow the piston to hit the valve?
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 04-09-2012, 03:41 PM
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don't know yet, in the process of pulling the head off. Work a bit get frustrated, cool off a bit go back at it. Working on the header bolts to the head now.
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:02 PM
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what is the secret to getting the header bolts out of the heads on the driver's side????
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:21 PM
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Don't know if it'll be the same for yours but in my BDR with FE it's easier to get at some of the bolts from the bottom.

Steve
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Old 04-09-2012, 05:55 PM
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Varmit, sorry to hear about this. At least if you are taking the heads off you can cure that oil consumption problem at the same time.

Then get that new carb installed so you can make huntington beach.
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:15 PM
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Varmit, sorry to hear about this. At least if you are taking the heads off you can cure that oil consumption problem at the same time.

Then get that new carb installed so you can make huntington beach.
Carb gets in tomorow. If I can get the head off, it can get repaired if needed while I'm in Arizona for a few days, the be up and running again. the header bolts to the head are quite the obstacle. Will get a crows foot tomorrow and try that. Spent all day got one bolt out the three loose. No Mas!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I think a friggin Jedi would have a hard time getting those things off!!!!!!
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Old 04-09-2012, 07:52 PM
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You might get better help if you described what is so hard about getting the bolts out.

If you can get the bolts broke loose and the problem is that the bolt heads get too close to the pipe as they back out, then the solution is to loosen all bolts at the same time, and keep pulling the header flange up against the heads. Loosen each bolt a turn or so at a time to keep them up close to the flange.

Hope that helped.
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Old 04-09-2012, 10:33 PM
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Got the bolts out, head removed, minimal damage. Will get the head to the shop tomorrow, definately repairable. Got real lucky here, no piston contact at all. Minimal damage to the seat. Count my blessings on this one!!!! A round of free beer for everyone here!!!!!!!

Last edited by Varmit; 04-10-2012 at 06:51 AM..
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Old 04-10-2012, 05:42 AM
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cheers!!!!!
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2012, 05:43 PM
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Both heads off, believe it or not, the valve stems were worn, not the valve guides=. You could see a small ridge on the vavle stems. According to the shop, Total Performance, the valves were a Chinese make, that does not have a good hard coating on them. Seems odd since it they were cnc ported AFR 205's , bronze guides, and Scorpion Rockers, that corners would be cut in the valve department. In any event I'm having all the vavles replaced, and a little extra head work done to increse the intake flow a bit. Hope to get them back by the middle of the week.
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2012, 06:08 PM
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Roush better not be using overseas cheap crap!!!! Or? Seems about right then. For those few Roush owners who are happy, count your blessings.
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2012, 06:20 PM
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I honestly do not know what has happened here. The owner of the shop pinpointed the stampings as a Chinese make. But hopefully it will eliminate the oil consumption problems. Had never seen ridges like these on valves before.
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Old 04-22-2012, 07:14 PM
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On reassembly you may want to pull the steering column to ease access in that area. I don't really have a choice with the FE but it would help with any other engine as well. 2 bolts at the U-joint, set screws on the bracket on the footbox, a U bolt under the dash and an electrical plug are all that's there, so it's not very hard to do vs. hours of turning bolts a quarter of a turn at a time.

hope that helps, Steve
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 04-22-2012, 08:59 PM
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Thanks for the info, I will keep it in mind.
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