Club Cobra - Lykins Motorsports 438W Build

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Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins (Post 1307089)

Couldn't tell you. I've been using these Dart blocks for years and have always knocked the cam bearings in the same way.

Chuck Barnett-was the president of DuraBond. Tell 'em the 'Cobra guy from World sent ya'. May have retired now.

Final wash is done, painted with Duplicolor semi gloss black engine paint. Freeze plugs and galley plugs are in.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps1e2adc77.jpg

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...psb5a0c238.jpg

Picking up the rotating assembly from the balancer on Monday.

I thought there was something missing!

Got the rotating assembly back. Checked main bearing clearances and they were too small for my liking, so I'm ordering a set of "X" bearings.

Quote:

Originally Posted by blykins (Post 1308519)

Got the rotating assembly back. Checked main bearing clearances and they were too small for my liking, so I'm ordering a set of "X" bearings.

What are you shooting for Brent?

I aim for .0028-.003 with 2.750" sized mains.

I'm at .002-.0022 with standard bearings. Easily fixed with a standard on one side and an X on the other side.

Timing cover is on and fuel pump is on.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...psd23acb23.jpg

I have a tool that I use to center the timing cover. One end is for Windsors and Clevelands, the other end is for FE's. I used to try to align the timing cover by the balancer or the balancer spacer, but I had a couple of front seal failures by doing it that way. Normally, when you try to align with the balancer or spacer, you find yourself trying to make the flange of the timing cover flush with the pan rail of the block, and you'd be surprised at how many timing covers will not be flush when perfectly centered.

Anyway, I use the tool, bolt the cover up, then in the Windsor/Cleveland's case, pop the seal on with another tool.

Also got the head gaskets and heads bolted on. I torque them and then let them sit overnight (or at least several hours) then I go back and re-torque. You oughta try it sometime: torque the fastener, mark it, then back it off and re-torque. Due to fastener stretch and gasket loading, you will end up moving the fastener further to achieve the same torque spec.

I also test-fit the intake manifold. On a single plane, it's mucho easy to check port alignment. On most dual planes, it's a pain in the butt.

This is where a bore scope comes in handy.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps9ff3ffa5.jpg

I first check manifold fitment without a gasket. This lets me get a general idea of where I'm at, plus it lets me see how close the intake flange angle is against the head flange.

Sometimes the intake is perfectly aligned with no gasket, so that means it needs to have the flanges whacked off. In this case, it needed to be moved up, so I tried it with some gaskets. The picture above is with a .060" gasket. It's not bad, but could stand to be better. I tried it again with a .090" 1262R gasket and it was pretty much dead on, so that's what I'll use.

Pushrods and rocker arms came today. Delivering a 428CJ to Boss Cars in Gahanna, OH tomorrow, so I won't get much work done, but I plan to get a good chunk finished this weekend.

Big dish in those pistons. Still shooting for 10.1:1 SCR Brent?

It's 8:1. He'll never know the difference.

58cc heads, 30cc pistons at zero deck. 10.25:1

8-1? Wtf?

@&$%#$¥#%?€!!!!!!!

Quote:

Originally Posted by jhv48 (Post 1309730)

8-1? Wtf?

@&$%#$¥#%?€!!!!!!!

I think he is funning you...

Of course I am...

That's why I added the line several spaces down...

Crap!

I just ordered a supercharger.

Oil pump pickup and pan are on. Jim, I upgraded you to the big Moroso pan, no charge.

Water pump is on, balancer is on, head bolts have been re-torqued, and rocker arms are on.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps31f57651.jpg

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps3a20d111.jpg

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Waiting on some oil to show up, then I'll prime the pump and make sure the oil goes everywhere it needs to go....then the intake will go on and the engine will be buttoned up.

Looks good, Brent. So 6-8 weeks till it's done?

Don't forget to remove that wrench from the balancer when you start it up.

Makes a hell of a racket.

I should have it finished this week. Next week I'm taking some time off for a small family vacation, then I will push to dyno that following week.

What finish do you want on the pulleys and brackets? I usually use March for those items, so you have a choice of black or natural aluminum. I will entertain other options if you want them.

Cool, the wife and I are on vacation week after next too.

Black pulleys would be my preference, thanks.

Let me look through their catalog. Have a good weekend...

Except for front end dress, ready to make some noise. Gonna dyno next week.

http://i170.photobucket.com/albums/u...ps9f05acec.jpg