Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace23
Thanks for the info. This is the first time I've changed the oil so the symptoms were pre existing......compression test was done prior to adding the additional oil. Sounds like I need to get under the car verify the oil pan number then drain the oil and add in the capacity that Canton has listed and mark the dip stick. I'm sure people think I'm a goof for doing this but I've lived life by looking as the dip stick and making sure my oil was between the add and full line.....I've never knew the dipstick may not be accurate to start with. Should be an easy fix
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Sorry about that,was looking at the original thread starter with the Roush engine.......
Your pan capacity is 7 quarts,you also have to add for how much oil your filter holds and how much oil is in the oil lines/oil cooler ....on a typical PH8 type oil filter,figure one quart....depending on the size of the oil lines/cooler,that could be as little as 1/2 quart,so your total capacity could be as little as 8.5 quarts with an oil cooler.....
Once you figure out the total oil capacity,do an oil change after the engine has been warmed up and add the amount you have figured it will hold to full....crank up the engine,let it run for a minute or two,shut it off,give it a few minutes for the oil to drain in the pan,then see where it is on your dipstick and mark your dipstick accordingly and use that mark from then on and you'll be fine....
As far as the low cranking pressure,I would not worry too much about it right now,maybe it should have more or the gauge can be off,either way your numbers are not bad and the good thing is from the high to the low is only an 8% difference which is a good thing!!!
When doing the cranking compression test,did you remove all 8 spark plugs and hold the carb butterflies wide open???? that is the proper way to get an accurate reading....
David
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