Roush 427r only made 400whp :(

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Originally Posted by Ace23

Thanks for the info. This is the first time I've changed the oil so the symptoms were pre existing......compression test was done prior to adding the additional oil. Sounds like I need to get under the car verify the oil pan number then drain the oil and add in the capacity that Canton has listed and mark the dip stick. I'm sure people think I'm a goof for doing this but I've lived life by looking as the dip stick and making sure my oil was between the add and full line.....I've never knew the dipstick may not be accurate to start with. Should be an easy fix

Sorry about that,was looking at the original thread starter with the Roush engine.......

Your pan capacity is 7 quarts,you also have to add for how much oil your filter holds and how much oil is in the oil lines/oil cooler ....on a typical PH8 type oil filter,figure one quart....depending on the size of the oil lines/cooler,that could be as little as 1/2 quart,so your total capacity could be as little as 8.5 quarts with an oil cooler.....

Once you figure out the total oil capacity,do an oil change after the engine has been warmed up and add the amount you have figured it will hold to full....crank up the engine,let it run for a minute or two,shut it off,give it a few minutes for the oil to drain in the pan,then see where it is on your dipstick and mark your dipstick accordingly and use that mark from then on and you'll be fine....
As far as the low cranking pressure,I would not worry too much about it right now,maybe it should have more or the gauge can be off,either way your numbers are not bad and the good thing is from the high to the low is only an 8% difference which is a good thing!!!
When doing the cranking compression test,did you remove all 8 spark plugs and hold the carb butterflies wide open???? that is the proper way to get an accurate reading....

David

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by DAVID GAGNARD

Sorry about that,was looking at the original thread starter with the Roush engine.......

Your pan capacity is 7 quarts,you also have to add for how much oil your filter holds and how much oil is in the oil lines/oil cooler ....on a typical PH8 type oil filter,figure one quart....depending on the size of the oil lines/cooler,that could be as little as 1/2 quart,so your total capacity could be as little as 8.5 quarts with an oil cooler.....

Once you figure out the total oil capacity,do an oil change after the engine has been warmed up and add the amount you have figured it will hold to full....crank up the engine,let it run for a minute or two,shut it off,give it a few minutes for the oil to drain in the pan,then see where it is on your dipstick and mark your dipstick accordingly and use that mark from then on and you'll be fine....
As far as the low cranking pressure,I would not worry too much about it right now,maybe it should have more or the gauge can be off,either way your numbers are not bad and the good thing is from the high to the low is only an 8% difference which is a good thing!!!
When doing the cranking compression test,did you remove all 8 spark plugs and hold the carb butterflies wide open???? that is the proper way to get an accurate reading....

David

Out of curiosity I went out to the shop after work tonight and was going to check the oil level on the dip stick as I know for a fact the car has 10 quarts of RP and whatever oil is in the lines and oil cooler. The oil mark is at the "add" line......so you can pretty much say the dipstick is out in left field. Funny thing is when the car had 9 quarts in it on the dyno the dip stick had the same measurement......hence the thought hey it needs a bit more. How in the heck can the oil on the dip stick not change when you add a whole quart? I wonder what its going to look like when I drain all the oil and add 7 quarts back in.....wonder if it will even register on the dip stick. Non the less it doesn't need to be driving around with 10 quarts in a 7 quart pan plus what ever residual oil is in the lines and cooler.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Be sure to measure how much you drain out of it when you do do it,that way,you'll know for sure how much oil was in the pan...

David

[jhv48]

As a follow up, I took measurements on my Roush/Moroso oil pan and its external dimensions were exactly what the Moroso 9 quart oil pan was. Since I had it off, I measured the capacity, and at 7 quarts, the oil hit the bottom of the windage tray. At 9 quarts, the level was about a half inch above the tray and extended about halfway up the slope towards the back of the pan.
So, my conclusion is that my pan is a 9 quart pan, not a seven quart pan. Maybe yours is too!

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by jhv48

As a follow up, I took measurements on my Roush/Moroso oil pan and its external dimensions were exactly what the Moroso 9 quart oil pan was. Since I had it off, I measured the capacity, and at 7 quarts, the oil hit the bottom of the windage tray. At 9 quarts, the level was about a half inch above the tray and extended about halfway up the slope towards the back of the pan.
So, my conclusion is that my pan is a 9 quart pan, not a seven quart pan. Maybe yours is too!

I've got something going on with my dip stick tube or something is moving around......getting fluctuating readings. Checked it again and it was below the add line this time

[Pman1961]

ACE, as we discussed on the phone, I had similar issues of inconsistent readings of oil level on the dipstick. Turned out the dipstick was not going deep enough into the pan and the add/full mark was actually in the dipstick tube prior to going into the pan. When my engine was out and partially assembled I put 7 quarts in the pan and remounted the pan. Then I cut the top of the dipstick tube until the oil level read full. Since your motor is intact, drain the oil, measure and pour back 7 quarts. Borrow the dipstick from my car as it is longer and see if the oil is on the stick. If it reads on the stick then find a dipstick as long as mine or longer and insert the dipstick back into the pan with 7 quarts, pull out, mark it and use the edge of a file to put a light score mark at the full mark and another to duplicate the add mark. I'll be glad to help. One thing to note. If the dipstick is to long then the stick will hit the bottom of the pan giving you inaccurate readings and possibly the stick popping out of the dipstick tube. Just duplicate the dipstick and cut the dipstick off around 1/2" below (verify) the add line.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by Pman1961

ACE, as we discussed on the phone, I had similar issues of inconsistent readings of oil level on the dipstick. Turned out the dipstick was not going deep enough into the pan and the add/full mark was actually in the dipstick tube prior to going into the pan. When my engine was out and partially assembled I put 7 quarts in the pan and remounted the pan. Then I cut the top of the dipstick tube until the oil level read full. Since your motor is intact, drain the oil, measure and pour back 7 quarts. Borrow the dipstick from my car as it is longer and see if the oil is on the stick. If it reads on the stick then find a dipstick as long as mine or longer and insert the dipstick back into the pan with 7 quarts, pull out, mark it and use the edge of a file to put a light score mark at the full mark and another to duplicate the add mark. I'll be glad to help. One thing to note. If the dipstick is to long then the stick will hit the bottom of the pan giving you inaccurate readings and possibly the stick popping out of the dipstick tube. Just duplicate the dipstick and cut the dipstick off around 1/2" below (verify) the add line.

Sounds like a plan. With a little time this should be something I can check off the to do list rather easy. Must be very similar experience you were having if I am getting inconsistent oil readings on a car that has been sitting for 24 hours in the garage without running. Going to go by the store tomorrow and pick up a clean oil pan to drain it in.