460 Windsor or move to a big block

[Joe's Garage]

Originally Posted by jacobsed

big block all the way

You NEVER hear anyone say "Man...I wish I had put a small block in"

Seeing how some of you would like to rehash this SB vs. BB debate, enjoy -

small block vs. big block in a cobra

Originally Posted by SPF2245

My .02, I got the chance to drive a big block...it's everything everyone said it was. Great sound, power fall off in the upper RPMs and too much low end power for the tires to stand a chance. I then drove a small block stroker and found the upper power band was more usable while the lower tq off idle allowed for more chance to put the power to the ground. End result, I've got a stroker small block. Is it the end all...no way, I could use another 50-75HP so 4th gear would be as exciting as the first three.

-Dan

Originally Posted by madmaxx

Unless you are buying an original you are getting a replica which takes advantage of many of the automotive advances through the years. Why not take advantage on engine technology and get a stroked 351 to 4??. Now you have big block performance plus the advantages of a lighter engine.

I have been in and heard both. Unless they are parked next to each other it is hard to dicern the big block. I also did not like the low ground clearance as a result of the big block bell housing. Just my thoughts.

Originally Posted by Slick61

I've got a 427 Windsor stroker. Has the Dart aluminum block, so is very stout AND light weight. I think I get the best of both worlds... big block power (612 hp/615 tq) with small block weight (car weighs 2240 lbs). Am surprised no one has mentioned a few other advantages of the small block... has more room to "breathe" in the engine compartment & you have better accessability during maintenance/service.

Originally Posted by madmaxx

danc30,
I do not have anything right now although I am slated for a Roush 427. I did intentionally pass up on two SPF's with 460's that were substantially less cost. If I wanted a trunk engine I would buy a truck. If I wanted an engine that overheated on a regular basis I would get a BB, if I wanted to plow into every turn I would get a BB, if I wanted to scrape every speed bump I would get a BB.

I'll check back later to see if the tomatoes have started flying.

[blykins]

557 ci BBF.....as mentioned, P51 heads, hydraulic roller.....700 hp.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by jacobsed

It is that motor. At 10k miles it was freshened up with new street friendly internals. It didn't oil itself well cruising around as it is a drag and race motor by design and started making not great noises. It was new back in 2000. Maybe Ford is doing something different with it now.

I'm no motor builder so I am not speaking from experience but I've heard a good many stories of Ford Motorsport engine failures....a SPF coupe local to me had a 427 That just failed a few months back that was basically new. I'm sure Ford's volume is much higher than the 1 man shop but you sure hear avoid amount of failures. Glad to hear you have it freshened up and I'm sure it's a blast.

Originally Posted by Joe's Garage

Seeing how some of you would like to rehash this SB vs. BB debate, enjoy -

small block vs. big block in a cobra









I'll check back later to see if the tomatoes have started flying.

all these big blocker haters!

Originally Posted by blykins

557 ci BBF.....as mentioned, P51 heads, hydraulic roller.....700 hp.

Is that a pretty conservative 557 and how high can you spin it

[750hp]

Originally Posted by Ace23

Is that a pretty conservative 557 and how high can you spin it

Just trying to understand your thought process. If it's a mild and relatively low-maintenance combination that makes more power and torque than you wanted, why does it matter how high you can spin it?

Do you want high rpm capability, bulk streetable low rpm torque, good gas mileage, lightest possible weight, maximum horsepower, no maintenance, or a budget crate engine? Brent can incorporate a number of these things, but not all of them...

[Gaz64]

Originally Posted by 750hp

Just trying to understand your thought process. If it's a mild and relatively low-maintenance combination that makes more power and torque than you wanted, why does it matter how high you can spin it?

Do you want high rpm capability, bulk streetable low rpm torque, good gas mileage, lightest possible weight, maximum horsepower, no maintenance, or a budget crate engine? Brent can incorporate a number of these things, but not all of them...

Agree.

700/557 = 1.25hp per cubic inch.

Sounds like a combo that would blow the tyres off, from anywhere in the rpm band.

Who cares about how high you can spin it?

Sure you could spend another 30k on it to spin to 9000 rpm and make 1000+hp but you won't get 150000 miles out of it.

It's all about compromise and making a suitable package for the intended usage.

[blykins]

It's hard to have your cake and eat it too. High rpms don't jive with streetability, ease of tuning, longevity, etc.

A big inch BBF would probably make that kind of horsepower on 87 octane at 6000 rpm.

[Ace23]

Originally Posted by 750hp

Just trying to understand your thought process. If it's a mild and relatively low-maintenance combination that makes more power and torque than you wanted, why does it matter how high you can spin it?

Do you want high rpm capability, bulk streetable low rpm torque, good gas mileage, lightest possible weight, maximum horsepower, no maintenance, or a budget crate engine? Brent can incorporate a number of these things, but not all of them...

It doesn't matter but I was just asking for that type of combo what the RPM range would be. When you go on 460ford and read all the build threads people are spinning those things from 5500-7000 and making all sorts of different power. I was just wondering with what Brent had mentioned where he was at with the RPM.

Originally Posted by Gaz64

Agree.

700/557 = 1.25hp per cubic inch.

Sounds like a combo that would blow the tyres off, from anywhere in the rpm band.

Who cares about how high you can spin it?

Sure you could spend another 30k on it to spin to 9000 rpm and make 1000+hp but you won't get 150000 miles out of it.

It's all about compromise and making a suitable package for the intended usage.

I was inquiring about the 557 he mentioned. I don't see the point in a wild big block in one of these cars. It seems like a mild big block would allow you to have more power than you could use and never leave you wanting more.

Originally Posted by blykins

It's hard to have your cake and eat it too. High rpms don't jive with streetability, ease of tuning, longevity, etc.

A big inch BBF would probably make that kind of horsepower on 87 octane at 6000 rpm.

I would be fine with 6000RPM.....I took an 80 mile spin last night and I may have hit 6000RPM+ a single time. 90% of the time I'm between 2000-4000K but I like the big power up top. I'm lucky to have access to 93 octane here but that is pretty encouraging to think you could make close to 700hp on 87. I'm assuming your torque would be close to 700 as well.

[CraftEngines]

The Brodix T1 heads we do are a 225cc intake runner. They flow similar to the AFR 220 heads we use on our 460ci crate engines. These typically make about 625hp/600ft/lbs torque depending on camshaft. So far we have had good luck with the 4.250" stroke and have been building them well before FRPP started them. If you do not want that much stroke you could always go the 4.170" route and be around 450ci. The Big block engines are definitely more bang for the buck if starting from scratch. A rotating assembly and notching a block would be much cheaper since you already have the sbf parts. Also consider the loss of rear percentage and added torque, will be a little hard to get it to the ground down low.

[jacobsed]

I know when my Ford Racing 514 was being marketed it was meant for drag and circle track racing. It didn't oil itself well just cruising around which is obviously a problem.